2 post break-in questions...
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2 post break-in questions...
I have a '74 F250 with about 300 miles on the new 390.
First question: After I drain the break-in oil, I'm a little confused regarding the info of what to replace it with. Apparently I can't use regular oil, any recommendations?
Second: It's warmed up a little from stock, any thoughts on what timing should be set to?
First question: After I drain the break-in oil, I'm a little confused regarding the info of what to replace it with. Apparently I can't use regular oil, any recommendations?
Second: It's warmed up a little from stock, any thoughts on what timing should be set to?
Hotshot
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From: iowa
Very few oils have much zinc in them anymore. Some of the diesel oils have small amounts still but not enough to make a difference. Race only oils that cost a fortune do to.
Just stay with a good quality 10w30 and if your engine is broke in properly you won't have any issues.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
Your distributor has some kind of advance mechanism. Probably both mechanical AND vacuum. so you want to find out how much total it adds then subtract from 36 and set your initial to the number.
and initial timing setting I give you will be a guesstimate
and initial timing setting I give you will be a guesstimate
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Axtell, TX
That's mainly for the breakin. If your breakin oil doesn't have enough zinc in it then that is where cam problems on breakin come from.
Very few oils have much zinc in them anymore. Some of the diesel oils have small amounts still but not enough to make a difference. Race only oils that cost a fortune do to.
Just stay with a good quality 10w30 and if your engine is broke in properly you won't have any issues.
Very few oils have much zinc in them anymore. Some of the diesel oils have small amounts still but not enough to make a difference. Race only oils that cost a fortune do to.
Just stay with a good quality 10w30 and if your engine is broke in properly you won't have any issues.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: iowa
all API certified oils (oils for street use) are limited on the amount of ZDDP they can have due to the phosphorous.
I have not seen a single cam that was wiped that can not be traced back to the breakin period (didn't run it the full time, ran the rpms to low so not enough lubrication, started and stopped several times. hard time getting it fired first time, didn't prime the system etc. Check you will find a problem almost every single time.)
but use what you want.
I have not seen a single cam that was wiped that can not be traced back to the breakin period (didn't run it the full time, ran the rpms to low so not enough lubrication, started and stopped several times. hard time getting it fired first time, didn't prime the system etc. Check you will find a problem almost every single time.)
but use what you want.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: Axtell, TX
Here's a good read. http://www.aera.org/ep/downloads/ep1/EP012008_8-16.pdf
Ask yourself this Joe, is the $1/qt you save by using a new oil not designed for your engine worth the risk of a cam failure (which could send metal shavings through your entire engine resulting in a rebuild)?
Ask yourself this Joe, is the $1/qt you save by using a new oil not designed for your engine worth the risk of a cam failure (which could send metal shavings through your entire engine resulting in a rebuild)?
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