Just got my inline six back from the machine shop where they did a long block rebuild including new pistons, rods, valves, cam, etc. I didn't ask about break-in, but my neighbor was saying that with the first startup I should run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15 minutes, then early-on lug the engine up a hill to seat the rings. What is the best break-in procedure? When should I change oil/filter?

Can't wait to get my '84 F-150 back on the road!

 

Have you checked to see how many trucks your neighbor has gone through over the years?
Does that even sound sensible?
500 miles of average driving, nothing too excessive.

 

actually, thats kinda close. you run the engine at a steady 2,000 rpm for 20-30 minutes. let it cool off, check it for leaks, etc. once you hope in to road test it, you are supposed to get up to 30 mph, then 3/4 throttle up to 60 mph, then let the vehicle coast you back down to 30. do this 12 times. then for the next 1000 miles or so, try your best to not drive at a steady pace. vary your speeds. if possible, vary your loads. at 500 miles, change your oil and filter. your then are technically "broke in".
srercrcr is correct on the average driving, nothing too excessive, though i know i will catch a disagreement with this. i recently took a class at school about engine rebuilding and found this information in the book. also, here is a post i had started about engine break in awhile back when my engine was new: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=458616 .
and yes, this is the procedure i followed.
good luck.
chris

 

The 500 mile careful driving break-in is what I had always heard so that's why I wanted to get some more advice. My neighbor has quite a bit of experience but wasn't quite sure of the "formula." Thanks for the link 4.9inline6. I'll check it out.

 

All you are 'breaking in' is the Piston Ring to Cylinder wall connection.
The actual happening is written up in literature from one of the Ring Mfg.

It's pretty cruel. You are causiing the 'hot spots' to burn or scrape off, so the Rings are seated perfectly all around the circumference.

What they do at the Factory is start it, run it at 2500 RPM for two to three minutes (while the guy is busy checking lights and other stuff) and then let it back to an idle and look for leaks.
After that, the rings are 'broke in' and you can go on driving it like it was a brand new truck.
Everything that's gonna fail, will fail in that frist two minutes.

One more really big caution.

Only run it for those two minutes at 2500 on the Oil and filter you started with.
Then change oil and filter.
I learned this the hard way.

On a Rebuild, they just cant get all the crap out of the block and head.
The Oil filter will almost plug up in that first two minutes.
I didn't pay attention to that and cost myslef a brand new engine, cam, lifters, bearings, crank and of course all the gaskets and work to redo it all.

 

aren't you also breaking in the cam?
chris

 

Yes, that's why the Cam and lifters should be new. But that part only takes a few seconds. It's a live or die situation for the Cam/lifter face, and the lifter sliding up and down in the block will burn in quickly too.

I should have amended that post above to say that I've rebuilt lots of engines. I knew to change that filter, but I was having other problems with the Valve timing and just didn't get to it in time. Sometimes I could kick the Crap out of my self.

 

haha well even though it was costly, i guess we all learn from our mistakes. thanks for the interesting information. i knew all that had to break in but i didn't realize it broke in that fast. why would people say they need to run for 20 minutes at 2,500 rpm if it does it that fast? thanks again.
chris

 

A lot of that comes out of the early part of the last century. The oil's and Cooling was not that good when we first started with rebuilding our own engines.

The Early Fords had a long break in period. Henry finally figured out his customers were paying no attention to his instructions and just let them go.
In the 60's everything got better.

I did some large (500 Cu In) gas truck engines. I had to scrape the Rod n' Main bearings and use Prussian Blue to wipe them in.
The Cam bearings seemd to take car of themselves. by the time I had run the engines for awhile, and pulled the pan to check the Bearings, the Rings were seated so there was a good Idle and no more smoke.

I read what the Mfg's say and do that!

Thud

 

interesting. thanks again.
chris

 

The instructions with my new cam [crane] say to run the engine above 1500 rpm for the first 30min, varying speed regularly, then change the oil after the first hour [or 100 miles] of operation. Seems quite reasonable.

 

Yes, that's what most Auto Machine parts say to do.
It's really the Oil Mfg's that suggest that. It's a comprimise between burning the hot spots off (galling) and never burning them off.

Can you imagine the time spent in the R n' D lab? Constantly setting up testing process' and then tearing it all down to assess the damage.
Exhausting!!! No doubt.

 

How much does it typically cost to have someone do a rebuild including new pistons, rods, valves, cam??

 

A good machine shop would have checked all the clearences to make sure that all was proper.
So, the run in at 1500 - 2000 rpm for the first few minutes, then change the oil & filter, drive it gently for the first 200 miles or so. Then drive it a little less gentle to the 500 mile mark. Change oil & filter again.
Then drive it like you intend to use it. Pull loads, fill er up & drive through the muck as your normal might be.
Just keep your eyes on the oil pressure & temperature gauges.

And yes todays lubricants are way better than they were on my last engine rebuild in the early 80's