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I've been chasing a stalling/no start issue basically since I've had this truck(about 1 year). Tried two CPS's, new orings in the IPR, checked fuel pressure, checked LPOP pressure, newish fuel filter. Not stalling anymore, but coming home from work tonight once truck got good and warm, I lost all power. It still ran, even when coming to a stop it continued to run. I could barely accelerate to 35mph, and took forever to do that. Idle sounded normal, just no power. In park it would rev like normal, just slower or sluggishly. Would the lack of in tank mods only rear their ugly heads like this when hot? Seems like a lack of fuel. Had CEL on the whole way home too(once symptoms appeared). Thanks for any insight.
I would get the codes read. Where is Bloomington, maybe someone will off to help with a scanner? I would also want to see icp while driving. Did you test fuel pressure under load?
Are you monitoring fuel pressure with a gauge or were you only able to check it? What's it like (fuel pressure) during an "incident"? It could be possible that once your truck warms up your driving habits change and if the filters in the tank are clogged and your calling for more fuel at that point, it could be possible that it's time to open the tank up.
First and foremost get the codes read and go from there. It may not be the fuel pressure.
Took hose off of the back of fuel pump and blew some compressed air into tank, heard some bubbles. Heard this sometimes will temporarily fix clogged mixing chamber. Truck is in driveway, and currently will not start. No smoke while cranking, cranks quickly. Will the IPR just fail? I replaced the orings. Well, I unhooked my gauge(temporary), but had great pressure running or at idle, today, don't know. Gonna go to hardware store when wife gets home to get necessary equip. for testing HPOP pressure. I'm in central Illinois if anyone can help, desperate here. Gonna get a gasser if this thing keep this up!
Originally posted by Dave (Golfer) on PSN 01-20-2010 Thanks Dave
its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.
I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.
If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...
so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.
If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.
if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.
If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)
if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.
if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.
If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.
If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...
the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.
LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?
if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...
I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...
any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?
holler if you need help troubleshooting. take care~ Dave
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Hears some good info also:
7.3L Powerstroke Starting Requirements:
Battery voltage a minimum of 10.5 volts while cranking
RPM at least 100 while cranking. If no tach movement suspect CPS
If you have a scan tool ICP should be 500 PSI ± 25 PSI and fuel
pulse width should be 1 to 6 milliseconds.
The above requirements assume the following:
Correct oil level, oil type and pressure
Correct type of fuel
Correct fuel pressure (53 PSI per Ford spec)
Sufficient air supply (clean air filter & unobstructed intake)
Proper oil level in HPOP reservoir (1 to ¾ inch from top)
Proper glow plug relay and glow plug operation (in cold weather)
Proper injection timing (PCM controlled)
Thanks for the extremely informative post. I really feel it is the IPR but don't want go get a new one until I confirm this. Truck just started about 10 min ago. Been sitting for 2 1/2 hrs. and has cooled off. This is also, I feel, heat related. Problem has never manifested itself during the winter, now temps are over 95 today, had gone 7-8 miles before loss of power. Anyone with a scanner in central IL. ? I pray it's not injectors, only 105000 miles. I'm pulling the camper with family down to meramec state park next weekend, this thing has gotta be running right.
Took IPR out again, cleaned it out again. Went for a drive. Had a little more power than earlier today, but check engine light was on again. Pulled into drive after maybe 1 mile drive, and it promptly stalled. Does the electronic portion of the IPR fail? Affected by heat? Bump for me.
Were you able to put a gauge on the oil rail and check icp psi? You need a gauge that goes up to 3000 psi. Sounds like AE would be a good investment for you. I'm sure Clay could ship it out pretty fast even express ship it if needed.
I would unplug your ICP sensor and see if it has oil in it, if it does, leave it unplugged and drive the truck, it will run on default tables with no ICP sensor, if it runs OK, there is your culprit....
I would unplug your ICP sensor and see if it has oil in it, if it does, leave it unplugged and drive the truck, it will run on default tables with no ICP sensor, if it runs OK, there is your culprit....
Tried that a long time ago, should have mentioned that. Thank you, though.
Were you able to put a gauge on the oil rail and check icp psi? You need a gauge that goes up to 3000 psi. Sounds like AE would be a good investment for you. I'm sure Clay could ship it out pretty fast even express ship it if needed.
No, no gauge yet, sorry. I'm pissed at myself for not getting this done too. I could diagnose, IPR dumping oil, or injectors, etc. Correct?
I have a friend that had a similar issue and his issue ended up being junk in the tank and after driving it for some time it would suck trash back in the pickup causing the truck to barely run 25mph.
Removed tank, cleaned out trash, flushed out lines all the way to the heads, cleaned check valves at heads, cleaned fuel bowl, and installed new fuel filter. Now it runs great.
Jody
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I have a friend that had a similar issue and his issue ended up being junk in the tank and after driving it for some time it would suck trash back in the pickup causing the truck to barely run 25mph.
Removed tank, cleaned out trash, flushed out lines all the way to the heads, cleaned check valves at heads, cleaned fuel bowl, and installed new fuel filter. Now it runs great.
Jody
Was this consistent? Like, did it happen every time he drove it? Mine is rather random, and seems linked to heat. When it stalled in driveway I blew compressed air into line at the pump. Would not start after doing this. I really do need to do the in tank mods though. Wish I knew what the codes are. No scanner, may have to pay a shop to scan them for me. Thanks for the reply. Dave.
Update. Think it's fixed. Been running for a couple hours, turned off and on numerous times. 95 degrees today, good and hot. Anyway, got a pressure gauge install on HPOP. Got it to start, could instantly see why idle fluctuated, the pressure was going up and down between 400-600psi. She got hot and stalled, pressure dropped to nothing in about 3 seconds and then it stalled. While cranking (and not starting,lol.) the pressure on gauge was about 200psi. So, I'm thinking IPR. $210.00 dollars later, I was right, I hope. You might find this interesting, I took the new electromagnet from the new one and put it on my old IPR(with new orings). She started right up and idled perfectly. I think it was the solenoid/magnet that went bad. Anyway, went ahead and put new IPR in also, and so far all is well. Idles at 600psi, rock solid. So maybe I'm a first, who knows but I hope this helps someone. Driving it to work tomorrow, supposed to be 98, this will tell the tell! Dave.
Update. Think it's fixed. Been running for a couple hours, turned off and on numerous times. 95 degrees today, good and hot. Anyway, got a pressure gauge install on HPOP. Got it to start, could instantly see why idle fluctuated, the pressure was going up and down between 400-600psi. She got hot and stalled, pressure dropped to nothing in about 3 seconds and then it stalled. While cranking (and not starting,lol.) the pressure on gauge was about 200psi. So, I'm thinking IPR. $210.00 dollars later, I was right, I hope. You might find this interesting, I took the new electromagnet from the new one and put it on my old IPR(with new orings). She started right up and idled perfectly. I think it was the solenoid/magnet that went bad. Anyway, went ahead and put new IPR in also, and so far all is well. Idles at 600psi, rock solid. So maybe I'm a first, who knows but I hope this helps someone. Driving it to work tomorrow, supposed to be 98, this will tell the tell! Dave.
Glad you got it fixed now you can go on vacation. Where did you pick up a gauge? I need to get one sometime. Is it liquid filled?