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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 05:15 PM
  #1  
wiznozniak's Avatar
wiznozniak
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Alternator question

Hello, I'm sick of driving with my high beams on and still not being able to see! What do I need to replace the stock alternator for an upgraded alt? Bracket? Regulator? etc... Is there a Kit? Or one off another truck/car that will fit?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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ford390gashog
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Yep swap in a ford 3g alternator!!!! Direct fit and over double of what your stock alt puts out!!! Let me know if you want further details! I did mine for under 40.00 from the JY.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...=942250&page=4
There is the mobile site I found it in the 73-79 forum
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 10:53 PM
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Thanks. Your info has triggered some intense research. Kicked myself for not searching archives.

New
 
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 05:18 AM
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ford390gashog
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The 3g swap is so simple you can have it done start to finish in about 15-20 mins.

Junk Yard parts list!!

Ford 3G Big Case alternator ( From Mid 90's ford taurus) FYI SAVE THE UPPER BOLT!!!

The yellow charge wire from the same car (it can be a pain to get that wire out but grab about a 2' piece)

You need the pigtail that plugs into the alternator (cut it and leave about 4'' of wire)

Parts Store list

1 ring terminal for the other end of the charge wire

Small amount of 14 ga primary wire

A few but connectors and heat shrink



Install

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remove the old alternator and voltage regulator! Then remove the old alternator wiring harness. Cut the harness going to the voltage regulator off . Remove the pulley from the old alternator and swap it to the 3g. Next install the 3g alternator (nothing special , real simple) you can re use the stock lower bolt but you MUST use the 3g upper bolt its metric.

Next connect charge wire to the 3g and run it to the battery side of the starter solenoid . Install the pig tail on the 3g and connect the yellow wire ( I tap into the in cab fuse block as this provides a true constant 13.6 volts with the headlights on at idle) connecting it to the battery is easier but it will not sense voltage drops in the cab very well. Connect the other wire on the pigtail to the green wire that you cut from the original voltage regulator. You are now done! Go ahead and clean up the wiring and tension the alternator belt and start it up!!!!
 
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 03:40 PM
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i've been looking for a diagram that shows the yellow (A) wire connected to somewhere other than the battery/starter solenoid. is this the "remote voltage sensing" wire? if so, i've always wondered why people don't connect it to the in-cab fuse block...you're the first one i've seen mention it.
 
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