This is a popular swap on 79-93 Mustangs (I have a few) but it had never even occured to me to do it on my truck.
Looks simple enough. I'll probably do the swap if mine fails but my truck has very basic electronics on it I'm thinking all that amperage really isn't needed. ?

 

i wish i had known about this 7 years ago when i had to upgrade the charging system !!!! I bought one of those expensive powermaster 180amp alts from summit for $250 bucks it works good but i could have saved a bunch of coinage and had the same result . well when the powermaster gives up the ghost i will do the 3g!

 

So from what I gather the alternator on the left is setup like what I need? And its a 130amp b/c there are two holes in the center of the case instead of four(90amps).

 

Yep exactly.

 

just ask for one off a 94-98 3.8 v-6 mustang or a 94-95 only gt.

 

No ones got any ideas about the electric choke?

 

A few things I found:

"Factory Carb Users:
If you have a Factory Ford carburetor (Holley model 4180) with a wire that connects directly to your 1G alt to your electric choke, get a 12 volt electric choke for a Holley 4160, P/N 45-223, and swap it out. Then wire the new choke to 12 volts."


Holley Electric Choke Tuning - FordMuscle.com Forums

3G to electric choke - ClassicBroncos.com Forums

stator connection for electric choke - ClassicBroncos.com Forums

 

Ok, instead of blowing $50 on that, i heard i can take out the choke and run no choke. Will i be able to do that come -10* weather here in michigan?

 

I highly doubt it, my experience with MI winters was that my 350 Chev fired up and idled beautifully on 80% choke, same with my 429 Ford except that one liked at least 40% choke even when warm from being recently run, if I skipped the choke on either when dead-cold I was just wasting my time and battery juice. A manual choke kit was around $10 at most parts stores last time I bought one (so a few years ago), it's probably the cheapest feasible option you have at this point.

 

I've ran serveral carb'd engines all winter long for years with no choke and didnt have any probs. I'm near St. Louis and it gets down to 0 and below. At worse I'd pump it about 3 times, hit the key and they would fire right up, then maybe feather the pedal just slightly for 5 seconds to keep the accelerator pumps squirting, good to go after that.

 

I dunno man, must be the nature of the individual beast - I did the three pumps and the 80% choke on the 350 every single time and it lit off immediately regardless of how cold it was outside, faster than most newer fuel-injected cars actually, with no choke she'd eventually still fire but it took a while. The 429 tho no way, heck that thing had an issue staying alive at idle in gear if the choke wasn't just quite right till it warmed up, I dunno if the 11.5:1 compression ratio had anything to do with it or not...

I'd say he should spend the $10 for the manual choke kit and install it now when it's nice outside, he may never really need to use it but that one time it's like -10 and he absolutely needs to go somewhere he'll have it at his disposal.

 

for those looking for a 3g, here's a list of cars you can use one off.

130G Alternators:
94-96 Mustang 3.8 V-6
94-95 Mustang 5.0
94-96 Thunderbird 3.8 V-6 (non SC)
95-96 Windstar 3.0 V-6 (most are 3.8's)
93-96 E/F series Trucks/Vans 4.9 L6*
96 Sable 3.0 V-6
94-96 Cougar 3.8 V-6

 

You left off the most important and plentiful one of all... 90-95 Ford Taurus.

And also it's twin Mercury Sable 91-95

Josh

 

if im not mistaken i think my 2000 stang has the same alt. it looks exactly like what i put on my 390

 

Anything wrong with doing this?