I'm about to install Autometer Pyrometer and Boost gauges on my PSD. I've read conflicting reports. (very limited instructions from Autometer) Is the proper location for the Pyro on the downpipe? (Someone recommended drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold).
Also, the instructions for the boost shows putting a tee in a vacumn line? Somehow that doesn't seem right.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

John, I have ISSPRO gauges but the install is probably the same. You do put a tee is for the boost gauge. That is where the signal is taken from. I installed my pyro before the turbo for more accurate temp. readings. Go to Diesel Injection Services. They have installation instructions on their website. They are very precise and easy to follow. If you have the clamp on style of pyro gauge you can drill a hole in the pipe going to the turbo on the drivers side. Easy to get to it from inunder neath the truck. I was looking at drilling the manifold but was leary about tapping cast iron. E mail me if you have any other questions. I was really worried about the install but I listened to the guys over on the other diesel site and had no problems.
Denny

 

Thanks Denny, I'm not a bad wrench, just no experience with diesels. My kid bought me an early fathers day gift. <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/"><a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/">Superchip</a>s</a> 1705 Micro-Tuner, Banks Monster 4" exhaust system, and the Autometer gauges, (pyro, boost & trans temp) Got the Micro-tuner goin' already, thats a lot of fun. Gonna tackle the exhaust Mon., then go onto the gauges.

I'll let you know how I make out.

P.S. do I have to drill a hole in the trans. pan, or is there somewhere else I can tap into the trans fluid?

 

Before you go splicing a vacuum line (?) BOOST is always a pressure reading, unless there is some way for the guages to convert vacuum to boost that I dont know about. Look for somewhere between the turbo and the intake manifold to install the BOOST guage. When you install the pyrometer stinger dont get too rammy with the wrench on tightening. Too tight will crack the probe (similar to installing a spark plug). Just make it tight and use anti seize compound (copper). That way if you have to replace the stinger, it will come out.
Good luck and enjoy the wonderful world of oil burners.

 

is it safer to instal the pyro after the trubo? some posts say yes, some say before... the reason i ask is that i understand it would be more acurate before.. but how often do these things break off and damage the turbo???

 

I have been sitting on my Pyro gauge for awhile now , but when i do install it i am going to mount it after the turbo to be on the safe side.

If i mounted it pre-turbo- with my luck, the probe will melt or break off , go thru the trubo , and Ford won't warranty it, then i am screwed.

 

JOOBOOST says after, I say before. Who right? Personel preference I guess. I prefer mine before to get a more accurate reading. After all that's why I have the gauge to insure that the temps don't go over 1270 degrees causing the turbo fins to glow, warp or even melt. Although it may have happened, I have yet to talk to anyone who has had a problem with turbo failure due to mounting the pyro before. As long as you're careful in drilling the hole as to not leave behind large pieces if metal shavings. I started drilling with a very small bit and worked my way up to the correct size hole, then used a small tip on a vacume to suck out any shavings. Been in place for almost a year now. No problems. You have to do what you feel is right. Your truck, your decision. You may want to start a new thread asking for imput on how many people recommend before vs after.

 

I was worried about drilling the hole for my pyrometer, preturbo , also. I followed the instructions that came with my ISSPRo gauges. I also asked a lot of questions at the dieselstop.com. Everyone said to put the pyro before the turbo and drill from smallest to the correct size. Also someone said to put grease on the bits then use a magnet or a shop vac and suck the shavings while drilling. Now that sounded like a real winner. Let me tell you that unless you have three hands or are very friendly with the person holding the shop vac it is darn near impossible for one person to do. I used the grease method and then I started the truck with the hole open and left it idle for awhile. My pyro has been in for about 6 months now and 10,000 miles with no ill affects. I want to be able to see the before turbo temps. The after turbo temps really don't mean anything except if the exhaust system would block up. Even then you would know about that without a gauge.
Deny

 

Hello John, I installed my Pyro pre-turbo. I was sort of tentative about drilling and taping the cast iron manifold but it turned out no problem. I used a small bit and worked up to the correct pipe size. Very interesting how hot you can get the EGT's towing. Cheers

Bob

 

Hey John. I just installed a 3 gauge set in my '03 F250. They are Autometer Phanktoms.

On the pyro, I installed it pre-turbo, using the clamp method in the up pipe going from the exhaust manifold on the drivers side to the turbo. Use the multi drill bit method that the other guys have posted here. Really pretty easy.

On the boost gauge, I use the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the (I believe) MAP or MAF sensor, which is on the bracket that is connected to the front of the air conditioner housing. Cut it, and install a "t" fitting, and run your gauge hose to the gauge.

If you do the tranny temp, you can use the test port that is just above the tranny linkage on the drivers side. There is a plug in it now, just remove it and install the sender in there. The sender needs to ground on it's threads. I used some liquid teflon thread sealer (available in the plumbing section of your local hardware store) insted of teflon tape. Sometimes the tape will keep the sender from grounding correctly. BE VERY, VERY CAREFULL!!! when installing the sender. It will feel like it isn't getting tight, and if you screw it in too far, it will break off! Yes, I knowthis by experience. On my second sender, I screwed it in by hand, then used a deep socket and gave it about a half a turn to one turn, started the truck and looked for any leaks.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at frankstr@snowcrest.net

Frank

 

Here is a link that includes some reference to Gayle Banks himself.

Go pre-turbo.

http://www.bankspower.com/Tech_whyegt.cfm

 

I installed my pyro gauge pre-turbo using the correct size bit from the start then getting any metal shavings that may have gone into the manifold with a extendable magnet. It has been installed for about two years and around fifty thousand miles. I like pre-turbo because I want the guage to read the correct temp. and not have to do any math. When I drilled my hole I left the drill on speed setting one and kept constant pressure on it. This caused the metal being drilled to stay in a spiral without shaving. The only part you have to worry about getting shavings is the final drill through. That's when the magnet comes in handy. Just my 2cents.