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Rust proofing frame

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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #1  
Fordranchero's Avatar
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Rust proofing frame

I put the lift up on the 92 flatbed yesterday and was not happy to see that all the por15 and black enamel were coming off in big thick scales.
So, I'm going to chip it all down, sandblast, and redo the frame.
I honestly don't think Por15 is all it's made out to be for the price.
What about truck bed liner?
If I taped up all the small stuff and brakes and what have you, would that keep the salt water from creeping under and rotting the frame, or would I be better off just painting it?
92 450 super-duty 74,000 km.s original.
I intend to make this my last truck and with the low mileage I just need to keep the rot from getting to it.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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yes it will as long as after you blast it, you need to put a good sealing primer on it then you can have it linned.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:43 AM
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if the metal is not prepped properly, por-15 will not work. it was probably put on without the etch first. when you do that, it peels off just like paint.

i clean the frame, etch it with 2 good applications of phosporic acid, then 2 coats of red oxide primer, then 2-3 coats of paint.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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I'm with TJC - I por-15'ed my frame and have been quite happy with it so far. I also did 2-3 applications of the phosphoric acid beforehand. Previous frame I had sandblasted and then primed and topcoated and after 1 salty winter of plowing the rust had already started on it again in places. My Por15'ed frame over 1 year out appears pretty well untouched. The only brown on my frame is the oxide "runoff" from the flatbed frame.

Did you top-coat your Por15'ed frame? It needs to be covered as it's not UV stable either. I top-coated with a *good* rubberized underbody/frame coating.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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man iv never seen paint hold up like POR-15 either.
the po had done some and i was shocked to look at it after a winter of driving in Maine,with some snow plowing too.
i coated the whole thing real good after i saw that.
few pics here of the new (just this year though,well after winter) application:
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - FORDF250HDXLT's Album: miscellaneous
did you follow the directions correctly and do all the prep?
i used the cleaner with a pressure washer.man i could eat off that frame before i painted it.that stuff is good.i also used a spay gun to get a nice smooth coat on her.
i was under there the other day replacing a U-joint and it was the first time i looked at the floor board.man does that look great too!
oh,recently burnt off the seat belt bolts that you need for the nerf bars to screw onto,because the threads were rusted up i had to replace them.
that por-15 doesn't burn off with a torch either!
you just need to follow all their steps,and it should be good for......i dunno yet.but sure looks promising.
it only seems expensive too.2 quarts did the whole underside of my truck,including extra plow push plates,and large dump body.
two coats too.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 06:52 PM
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Don't know what to say, the truck only had 25,000 miles on it when the por 15 went on.
pressure washed the frame,de scaled anything that looked loose and sprayed on two coats with black enamel over that.
3 years later and I think I would have been better off if I left it alone.
Where I live is big time heavy salt usage country and most old timers swear by oil spray.
My old 93 Blazer was always oil sprayed and the frame still has original paint and no body rust except this year a tiny hole came through the bottom of a door.
I think I will chip it down, blast, clean meticulously, enamel paint, and check out bed liner solutions.
And start putting the oil or rustproofing to it.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #7  
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FORDF250HDXLT
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by Fordranchero
Don't know what to say, the truck only had 25,000 miles on it when the por 15 went on.
pressure washed the frame,de scaled anything that looked loose and sprayed on two coats with black enamel over that.
3 years later and I think I would have been better off if I left it alone.
ahh.
you need:
MARINE-CLEAN™ cleans and degreases in one application without leaving residues, noxious fumes or flammable solvents.
then:
METAL-READY™ provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces.
then:
POR-15® is a high-tech, high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces.
then:
you can apply your top coat (for anything that sees direct sunlight)
OR you could wait for it to dry latter and then spray it with their new primer made to go over cured por-15.

it sounds like you missed a couple things.
iv read the same results happen if you skip out and just try to clean and spray it like you might have.
it's all a 3 step system that works together or not at all as i understand it.
i can take a hammer to my frame or anywhere under there right now,and i couldn't chip the stuff off.it's that's hard.
you'll know when you have it right,cus its like a hard armored shell rather than just paint.it can't chip.
i dunno in a few years i may change my tune about it too haha.we'll see.



<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/SvcepMwqmZs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 08:06 PM
  #8  
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I used it a number of times on my antiques cars and had good results (as far as I know because i sold them later) but that was on bare sheet metal.
Yeah, maybe I didn't get clean enough, it's a sure thing that if the water can creep under any finish it will start to peel it off. It's going to be an ugly job but I love this truck, it's going to last me for a while that's for sure.
Thanks for the input guys, sometimes we just need perspective.
I think I'll do a pictorial on frame restoration!
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 08:35 PM
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I know a lotta guys that swear by "Rust Bullet".
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 04:25 AM
  #10  
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tjc transport
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if you do not acid etch the frame before priming or POR-15 it will just rust again.

most people skip the acid etch step, and the result is what you have.. rust under the coating
 
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