Weird time of year to be shopping for them I know, but the past 2 winters have been WAY out of the norm here. I am tired of FREEZING on my skidder. LOL I have the 3/4 ton F250 and I have my 05 1 ton chevy. Starting to shop for a plow. I would prefer to use my IDI but it has the TTB50 under it. I just want to know what I am getting into here. I will honestly say that most of the plow trucks around here have only had their plows on for about 2 weeks. So it is not like it is a continuous thing. I was thinking about a salt/sand spreader too, our climate being so humid means that ice is very common. I can break it up with the skidder, but something on the ground sure does make that job easier. So for the guys that have plows chime in and get me pointed in the right direction. Here we are getting 225/hr for trucks 150/hr for skidders.

 

My F250 gasser had a TTB axle under the front and I didn't have any issues with it. Up in SE Wisconsin here I'd keep it on almost the entire winter, which sometimes seems like 6 months. Your main issue will be that it'll throw off your camber angles when you have the plow lifted, but for only a short time that won't be a huge issue really. If you want to fix it just throw in a set of air bags up front to help take some of the weight off the springs and you can get the camber same as stock w/o the plow, then let the air out again when you pull the plow off.

I beat the **** outta my 250's TTB plowing for a few years and haven't had any issues. Admittedly my D60 does handle it better, but for only 2 or 3 weeks of the year I'd have no worries about the TTB.

 

My '93 F250 is my back-up plow truck, & it handles it just fine. I have an 8' Western hanging on the front, & the TTB handles it just fine.

 

now's the time to find the best deals on the plows.
8' fisher on mine.
went all winter pushing some deep stuff with no issues.
(only a couple hrs per storm.a few drives.family only.)
ball joints needed replacement come spring to pass inspection.
replaced with MOOG's to see how she likes that.
saw evidence of push plates on this truck when i went to put mine on.so hard to say if those were originals or not.

 

Wish I was getting $225/hr here...
There's lots of guys pushing plows around here for $60/hr...
(everybody & their brother & their brother's dog has a plow)

 

Rough range here is $75-95 an hour, depending on the truck and plow. If you have a sander/salter, that can also fetch a little more.

Biggest issue is finding mounting brackets for the trucks, getting harder to find them for these older rigs. If you happen to find a used set, you're lucky!

Beyond that, you may be looking at some fabricating.

As to plows, they vary a lot, Meyers are lighter, simpler, so therefore a little easier on the front end. However, some guys swear by them, some swear at them. (I have all Meyers stuff here for now, I just figure I have enough extra parts that if or when I have an issue, I can do some quick swapping and keep going.)

If you're looking at straight or vee plows makes a difference. Vee plows have to have the harness height right, or they will not scrape clean when in v or scoop mode. A straight blade is a little more forgiving, but it still needs to sit level if possible.

If the money is there for the plowing you do, you could consider a new one too, some of the newer plows have some really nice features now. I'll run the Meyers for a cople years, but if things go well this summer, I'll be running an Ebling rear plow primarily, and just using the Meyers to stack etc.

 

even worse here Phy.
i don't think the expense to it around here is being made.

 

Well I was thinking about shopping around for an existing plow truck, my year range and just swapping the stuff onto mine, then sell the truck. Like this:

1996 FORD 3/4 Ton XLT 250 TRUCK with SNOW PLOW

I know I am going to have to drive up north to find something. Quite sure something around here isn't going to be ready available. There is a Boss Plow an hour from here that is brand new. Guy said it would fit my 1 ton. IDK. I am just searching now. Willing to sell something in order to get what I want/need...LOL

NO JOE NOT MY IDI EITHER OR ANYTHING ON IT IS FOR SALE!

 

id never mess around with anything under an '8 blade myself.
the '8 seems to be pushing it when fully angled as is.

 

I wouldn't put plow on TTB 50.

Used to have 95 F250 with 5.8L It was HUGE PITA to keep alignment on front end. Every week it will chew front tires.

It had Western 8'6 it was perfect plow truck expect ttb 50 or E4OD that use wiring to shift..


If you going put on F250 Get Timbrsen rubber stop on front leaf spring to frame that help much.

 

What is that? What does it do? My truck has the ZF5 in it. I do have a D60 but like I said before, I am thinking of putting my cummins in the 96. So the TTB50 is too light of a front end for a plow. Hmmmm How did the truck overall handle? Aside from the TTB50 and the auto? The D60 would make that much of a difference?

 

Good grief! There are LOTS of plow options. Poly, steel, stainless steel, v plows. Damn I really need educated here guys. Our climate and winters will help. So we usually get ice, 2 to 4 inches usually, then snow on top of that. The reason I am letting you know is because I don't want to buy the wrong plow. I would like the most effective plow. Why would you use a V-Plow? I see it can also cut straight too. How long to cutting edges usually last? Sheesh guys. I am so sorry for being so ignorant. But I don't want to throw money at something that I am going to be disappointed with. Why do they make plows out of different materials? I understand nothing smaller than 8 foot like F250 suggests. Not so much worried about what brand right now. Just want to figure out what is going to work best for me. We can talk brand now or later. Where is DaveS!?!?!??!?! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

Let's go the other route.....tell us what you're plowing, and how much, and we can likely suggest a plow for you.

Many think poly is lighter, when, in fact, they are often heavier. SS and poly means a little less painting and steel to rust, and also easier to get snow to slide versus stick.

A V plow, or expanding plow, tend to be more productive, but it also depends on your plowing style. If all you do is windrow long runs, then a V or wideout isn't going to be as big of an advantage as it would be for shorter runs in large, wide areas.

A straight blade is also the simplest to use and maintain, less moving parts, less valves, less hoses, etc.

Often the best plow isn't who made it, but who deals parts and support in your area. The best plow in the world really sucks at 2am with a minor breakdown, and you can't get a part.

 

i live where it snows alot jeez i wish i made that its going for 50 to 100 depending on trucks fleet and what you have for a sander i would go with fisher because its heavier and you can adjust the dig i have a 8 foot fisher procaster on my 95 for with the dana 60 front end and it goes anywhere the fishers are the best for the price stay away from meyers and boss plows junk!!!!! the meyers freeze and the boss have way to many electrical problems sanders are a whole different story all depends on what you want to spend...

 

+1 for Fisher, had mine for 4 years now, (bought used) just change the hydraulic fluid every year and keep it out of the rain, she'll take car of ya!

8' on my F-350, for refrence...