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I recently traded my 250 for a 350. Both are 2000 7.3 .....the 350 I required already has 5" exhaust from the turbo back. It has 190,000 miles. The truck runs rough when starting in the mornings. And check engine light would come on until it warmed up. I tree taking a trip with my family in it yesterday but got an hour out of town and it first started idleing very high, then whenever I would let off the accelerator it would run extremely rough. When I would sop a red light it felt as if it were running on 2 cylinders. Pulled over and it cut off.. I unlugged the brake contller I install led yesterday just trying to think of anything Ito might be. Figured right up ran great for about 5 miles then started missing very bad again. Pulled over, shut it down , started it back up and didn't exceed 55mph it ran good but engine light is on. Light is still on and it has no power till it warms up, runs very rough till it warms up, I also installed a boost, pyro, trans temp gauge pod.. All gauges read good when it happens .....can anyone help?...
I had one place check it before I traded for it...there reader said ..."no codes"....before I left town this morning I let it warm up( ruins rough till then) but after that it was running great but light was still on and I didn't up to 65 or 70.....like I was last night when it started....I also installed 22.5 semi-wheels yesterday, don't think that would matter but just putting it out there.....any ideas?... Maybe the injector control sensor?
I agree with Jim.. sounds like the under the valve cover connector/s has come loose.. (a very common problem).. If your Engine Light is on, you have stored codes.. You have to use a compatible scanner for our 7.3L.. here is a thread on how to fix it ... only costs ya 50 cents..! https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html
A Big Welcome to the Forum !!
Thank y'all for the quick responses. I'm going to try the connector under the valve cover Monday....any one know of a reader that will show that being it without removing valve cover? And what is the "cps"?
Crank position sensor. It's on the front of the motor and you may be able to have it changed for free since it's been recalled. May have been done already though. It's still cheap and easy to do yourself. Sounds like the uvch to me though
If the engine light is on, then you have codes. A UVCH problem will throw a whole mess of 'em. You need to be aware that most cheap scanners will not read these trucks as they are not OBD II compliant due to their weight. Most of us use Auto Enginuity (link).
I would also start with troubleshooting the UVCH based on what you have described. Lots of good info here on the problem. Good luck, and let us know what you find.
CPS= cam position sensor. It is also a cheap easy fix and if not the problem, it's a good idea to have a spare. Get one from Ford or International. Stay away from the aftermarket parts stores. Here is another good one. Riffraff Diesel: International "Black" CPS - Original
Thank y'all for the quick responses. I'm going to try the connector under the valve cover Monday....any one know of a reader that will show that being it without removing valve cover? And what is the "cps"?
You could try to start a New thread... saying... Need scanner help.. and insert your city in Florida.. There are alot of good guys/gals that would gladly help.. (P1316 is a common code for under the valve cover problems.. )
The mechanic I took the truck to is telling me he thinks it is going to be the injectors, he is going to find out for sure today, do any of y'all think it is the injectors?....not one person has thought that's what the problem. Don't want the mechanic to rip me off....