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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #16  
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I had a new pan installed under an extended warranty. Long story but I provided the pan. I purchased new OEM from a site sponsor. Scuff, clean, 2 coats with POR 15. Rust started UNDER the OEM paint not more than a year later. This was a brand new OEM pan.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 10:12 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by indyF-350psd
this is one of those jobs you try to prevent as much as possible but in the end yanking the engine and replacing the pan is the only way to go. this was my idea of a remedy to the crappy pan.....



a line-x'd oil pan. plus it looks good.......
I did something similar, but instead of Line-X I used a can of undercoating.
It provides a nice thick barrier against the elements and rock strikes, etc.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #18  
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Here's an alternative to replacing pan.

YouTube - ‪7.3 Ford Rusted Oil Pan Repair Kit (1of 2)‬‏

YouTube - ‪7.3 Ford Rusted Oil Pan Repair Kit (2 of 2)‬‏
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 11:50 AM
  #19  
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Wow If that works, That is Genius! I would try that before pullin the engine for sure!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #20  
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From: reno nevada
pan

No easy solution to this one i guess. Im going to give the rust bullet try. I never have used either rust bullet or por15. Not sure what to expect.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 03:02 PM
  #21  
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I used POR-15 three years ago.
It's all rusted again and I know I positively took it down to bare, shiny metal.
Going to do it again and this time cover it with undercoating as Dan did.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 03:10 PM
  #22  
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From: reno nevada
bad

Steve how bad was yours when you first started on it 3 years ago? I know that is a relative question. But if i can get a couple years out of mine id be happy. Then can be prepared to have the engine removed and have that and clutch,etc, done at once. Joe
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #23  
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I'd guess at maybe 1/64" rust, maybe thinner.
There were a few areas that flaked off and some pitting but the underlying metal was fine. Shall we say "It buffed right out".
Well, with a wire wheel and a sander.

I think you should be able to get a couple years out of the POR-15.
I'd spray it with heavy undercoating too.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 05:51 PM
  #24  
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I had a 1/4 rust hole and several holes smaller. Sanded it down to bare metal and JB weld. Then two coats of POR15 and then rattled canned black over that. Still holding 8 month later with no rust yet. Keep your fingers crossed.

Before Action..... PS line rusted at the same time.
YouTube - ‪7.3 leaking oil pan‬‏
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 05:57 PM
  #25  
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From: reno nevada
oil pan

I appreciate everyones thoughts and help on this one. Learn a lot on the site! I decided to try Rust Bullet on my pan. I was getting ready to order some and then realized they are local here in town. Just picked up some to try.. I have more prep work to do yet. Im going to be safe and not over sand mine, but i need to at least get all the stupid black paint off the top. Joe
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #26  
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work in progress

Well just an update that im still working on this one. Did not get to spend as much time on it as i wanted to over the weekend. A bit slow going sanding under there. I have a couple of spots im a bit leary of and i dont want to overdo it and sand thru them. In some spots the original black paint held fine and is hard to sand off. Other places terrible, must be rocks chipped it i guess?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #27  
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I thought that products like POR-15 were supposed to be applied to rusty surfaces, rather than shiny, polished ones?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #28  
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From: reno nevada
rust

You are correct they are made to go over the rust. But the rust bullet info said your better off getting the old paint off, as it sticks better to the rust or bare metal. Getting close to finishing. i hope it works, dont really have money for haveing the engine taken out now!
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #29  
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?s about your coatings

Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I did something similar, but instead of Line-X I used a can of undercoating.
It provides a nice thick barrier against the elements and rock strikes, etc.

How long has it been since the line-x or undercoating? also these products are limited to around 180 on temps... how do the oil pans look now, are the spray products holding up... also did you strip the pans to bare metal or go over the factory paint?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #30  
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?s

Originally Posted by indyF-350psd
this is one of those jobs you try to prevent as much as possible but in the end yanking the engine and replacing the pan is the only way to go. this was my idea of a remedy to the crappy pan.....



a line-x'd oil pan. plus it looks good.......

Hows it holding up and did you strip to bare metal before line-x?
 
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