When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had a new pan installed under an extended warranty. Long story but I provided the pan. I purchased new OEM from a site sponsor. Scuff, clean, 2 coats with POR 15. Rust started UNDER the OEM paint not more than a year later. This was a brand new OEM pan.
this is one of those jobs you try to prevent as much as possible but in the end yanking the engine and replacing the pan is the only way to go. this was my idea of a remedy to the crappy pan.....
a line-x'd oil pan. plus it looks good.......
I did something similar, but instead of Line-X I used a can of undercoating.
It provides a nice thick barrier against the elements and rock strikes, etc.
I used POR-15 three years ago.
It's all rusted again and I know I positively took it down to bare, shiny metal.
Going to do it again and this time cover it with undercoating as Dan did.
Steve how bad was yours when you first started on it 3 years ago? I know that is a relative question. But if i can get a couple years out of mine id be happy. Then can be prepared to have the engine removed and have that and clutch,etc, done at once. Joe
I'd guess at maybe 1/64" rust, maybe thinner.
There were a few areas that flaked off and some pitting but the underlying metal was fine. Shall we say "It buffed right out".
Well, with a wire wheel and a sander.
I think you should be able to get a couple years out of the POR-15.
I'd spray it with heavy undercoating too.
I had a 1/4 rust hole and several holes smaller. Sanded it down to bare metal and JB weld. Then two coats of POR15 and then rattled canned black over that. Still holding 8 month later with no rust yet. Keep your fingers crossed.
I appreciate everyones thoughts and help on this one. Learn a lot on the site! I decided to try Rust Bullet on my pan. I was getting ready to order some and then realized they are local here in town. Just picked up some to try.. I have more prep work to do yet. Im going to be safe and not over sand mine, but i need to at least get all the stupid black paint off the top. Joe
Well just an update that im still working on this one. Did not get to spend as much time on it as i wanted to over the weekend. A bit slow going sanding under there. I have a couple of spots im a bit leary of and i dont want to overdo it and sand thru them. In some spots the original black paint held fine and is hard to sand off. Other places terrible, must be rocks chipped it i guess?
You are correct they are made to go over the rust. But the rust bullet info said your better off getting the old paint off, as it sticks better to the rust or bare metal. Getting close to finishing. i hope it works, dont really have money for haveing the engine taken out now!
I did something similar, but instead of Line-X I used a can of undercoating.
It provides a nice thick barrier against the elements and rock strikes, etc.
How long has it been since the line-x or undercoating? also these products are limited to around 180 on temps... how do the oil pans look now, are the spray products holding up... also did you strip the pans to bare metal or go over the factory paint?
this is one of those jobs you try to prevent as much as possible but in the end yanking the engine and replacing the pan is the only way to go. this was my idea of a remedy to the crappy pan.....
a line-x'd oil pan. plus it looks good.......
Hows it holding up and did you strip to bare metal before line-x?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.