Drive shaft help
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Elder User
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From: central illinois
Drive shaft help
Going to the Junkyard to find drive shaft. What years of trucks to look for? So this is one for the books. LOL I have a 1980 F100, with a 9" and T18. It's a regular cab, short bed. Seems easy enough right.... Well it had a drive shaft from a 92 S10 LWB that has finally died. I need to get the right shaft. This T18 is no newer then 1975 from what I can tell. Reverse is Up and to the right. It has the U bolts like a rear axle to hold on the drive shat. It measures around 64" from the two mounting points. I know I will need some type of slip joint (Not sure on proper terms) as the drive shatft doesn't go into the trans. The drive shaft on the top is what my current one looks like. Just the S10 shaft has a Carrier bearing. Notice how the ends are just the U joints. http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...ges/e5581c.gif
This is what the mounting spot for my T18 looks like.
This is what the mounting spot for my T18 looks like.
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From: Virginia
Here are the options for the 1980 f100. Your t18 should be the "warner".
117" WB, M.T., 3 spd
117" WB, M.T., 4 spd, Ford (overdrive)
117" WB, M.T., 4 spd, Warner
133" WB, M.T., two-piece, Fr section
117" WB, A.T., C4
117" WB, A.T., C6
133" WB, A.T., one-piece, C4
133" WB, A.T., one-piece, C6
133" WB, A.T., two-piece, Fr section
133" WB, A.T., two-piece, Rr section
133" WB, M.T., two-piece, Rr section
133" WB, M.T., one-piece
I am going to assume the shortbed is the 117" wheelbase. I used the "117 WB, M.T., 4x2 " in my search. No one in Illinois has one.
I searched "midwest" and these places came up;
1980
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck F100 073EE $85 A-1 Auto Recyclers USA-MO(Columbia) E-mail 1-800-237-7705
1980
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck 100 45 INCHES,CK AND COMPARE NOF $50 Sheldon's Used Auto Parts USA-MN(Thief-River Falls) E-mail 1-800-336-4886
1980
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck 150 MT 940036 $50 Sheldon's Used Auto Parts USA-MN(Thief-River Falls) E-mail 1-800-336-4886
117" WB, M.T., 3 spd
117" WB, M.T., 4 spd, Ford (overdrive)
117" WB, M.T., 4 spd, Warner
133" WB, M.T., two-piece, Fr section
117" WB, A.T., C4
117" WB, A.T., C6
133" WB, A.T., one-piece, C4
133" WB, A.T., one-piece, C6
133" WB, A.T., two-piece, Fr section
133" WB, A.T., two-piece, Rr section
133" WB, M.T., two-piece, Rr section
133" WB, M.T., one-piece
I am going to assume the shortbed is the 117" wheelbase. I used the "117 WB, M.T., 4x2 " in my search. No one in Illinois has one.
I searched "midwest" and these places came up;
1980
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck F100 073EE $85 A-1 Auto Recyclers USA-MO(Columbia) E-mail 1-800-237-7705
1980
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck 100 45 INCHES,CK AND COMPARE NOF $50 Sheldon's Used Auto Parts USA-MN(Thief-River Falls) E-mail 1-800-336-4886
1980
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck 150 MT 940036 $50 Sheldon's Used Auto Parts USA-MN(Thief-River Falls) E-mail 1-800-336-4886
Post Fiend
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From: Lost
Since it had an S10 driveshaft, I'm going to guess that the front yoke on the rearend has been changed to the earlier style, such as what a 75 or so truck would use. I know dad's 74 uses a smaller u-joint than my 80, and that same smaller joint was very commonly used in GM vehicles as well. (Presision brand, part number 369)
With the bolt-on yoke at the trans, you will need a 3 joint shaft with carrier bearing. Finding a complete and correct shaft at a junkyard is going to be a bit difficult, as this is literally a "1 off" application. You might be better off going to a driveshaft shop and having them custom build a shaft for your specific needs.
If the S10 shaft fit well at each end, and was close to the correct length, you could take it to a shop for an example to build from. Who knows, they may even be able to revive that one.....
With the bolt-on yoke at the trans, you will need a 3 joint shaft with carrier bearing. Finding a complete and correct shaft at a junkyard is going to be a bit difficult, as this is literally a "1 off" application. You might be better off going to a driveshaft shop and having them custom build a shaft for your specific needs.
If the S10 shaft fit well at each end, and was close to the correct length, you could take it to a shop for an example to build from. Who knows, they may even be able to revive that one.....
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From: central illinois
OK thanks guys, This looks like it's going to cost more then what I wanted. Does it really have to have a carrier bearing? The truck is 4x2. You know how a front drive shaft on a 4x4 is, that's what I would prefer to have. I'm not the biggest fan of carrier bearings.
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From: Virginia
As you can see from my first post, the short wheelbase didn't use a carrier bearing with two driveshafts. You will need the single driveshaft with the slip joint in the shaft. I don't know if you have ever seen a front 4x4 driveshaft, but that's what it will look like. My 1980 long wheelbase f150 4x4 truck had the single rear shaft with the slip joint made into the shaft, since my transfer case had the fixed yoke output just like your 4 speed does.
Post Fiend
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From: Lost
The slip yoke type driveshaft would work, but again, it will likely need to be custom made. I don't think this style was ever used for a 2wd short bed, especially with the smaller u-joints that I suspect are needed, seeing as it had a GM DS in it......
I suspect a slip joint shaft will be more expensive to get made than a carrier bearing style. The slip/stub assembly is pretty pricey, and they can wear out rather quickly if not kept well greased.
I suspect a slip joint shaft will be more expensive to get made than a carrier bearing style. The slip/stub assembly is pretty pricey, and they can wear out rather quickly if not kept well greased.
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From: In the garage
He could always use a conversion u-joint if the driveshaft he ends up using doesn't use the same size.
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From: central illinois
Franklin2, I have seen many 4x4 front shafts, and that is what I was thinking it would look like. I just miss understood this by Rouge_Wullf... "With the bolt-on yoke at the trans, you will need a 3 joint shaft with carrier bearing."
Rouge_Wullf.. I don't think the end caps are the same on all 4 sides of the u joint. I feel they either pieced them together or used a multi sized u joint. Maybe a "conversion u-joint" if that's what they are called like dohc_chump mentioned.
dohc_chump... If you happen to find a shaft that may work awesome!! Also if you may need any measurements or what size the yokes are I will do my best to get them.
Thank you all for the help.
Rouge_Wullf.. I don't think the end caps are the same on all 4 sides of the u joint. I feel they either pieced them together or used a multi sized u joint. Maybe a "conversion u-joint" if that's what they are called like dohc_chump mentioned.
dohc_chump... If you happen to find a shaft that may work awesome!! Also if you may need any measurements or what size the yokes are I will do my best to get them.
Thank you all for the help.
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From: Virginia
The slip yoke type driveshaft would work, but again, it will likely need to be custom made. I don't think this style was ever used for a 2wd short bed, especially with the smaller u-joints that I suspect are needed, seeing as it had a GM DS in it......
I suspect a slip joint shaft will be more expensive to get made than a carrier bearing style. The slip/stub assembly is pretty pricey, and they can wear out rather quickly if not kept well greased.
I suspect a slip joint shaft will be more expensive to get made than a carrier bearing style. The slip/stub assembly is pretty pricey, and they can wear out rather quickly if not kept well greased.
If they had the s10 shaft in there, and it worked ok, why not just repair it?
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From: central illinois
Pics of how I found my drive shaft center U-joint.
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From: In the garage
Checked out my buddies driveshaft stock and didn't find anything that would work. I sent a text to a guy I deal with to see if he has anything laying around. I should know by Sat. or Sun. what he finds. If I head out to the JY this weekend I'll take a look around there as well for you.
Also, yes, the carrier bearings are pressed on. I have friend that does a hillbilly technique to take them on and off that involves using a torch... though it doesn't always end well. You could also use a bearing separator plate (I think some auto stores rent these out) and give it a whirl.
Also, yes, the carrier bearings are pressed on. I have friend that does a hillbilly technique to take them on and off that involves using a torch... though it doesn't always end well. You could also use a bearing separator plate (I think some auto stores rent these out) and give it a whirl.
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Elder User
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From: central illinois
Thanks, I will be heading to he local junk yard here also. I doubt I'll find anything. They tend to leave the drive shaft in place and lift them with the forks. Bend everyone of them. Acme in Kankakee said they have room full of them. I may try them next week.
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Elder User
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From: central illinois
Well I found nothing!!! I found one from a 78 F150 4x4 that had the parts I needed but the shaft was to long and dented up good. They wanted $15 for it. Not sure I really want to pay that much for just the ends and still get the tube custom made.
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