My name is Eddie and I could use some help with my truck. Ive gotten alot of help with my truck from your fourms but this is the first time ive posted anything. About a month ago the alternator lite started to come on and off from time to time. Then everynow and again the truck would cutoff. Figured time to change the alternator and possible the cps. I work out of town so I waited and got truck home with no cutoffs or problems. Waited a day or so, started truck to bring around to shop and truck dies prob 6 or 7 times in driveway. Changed alternator and cps truck ran great no problems. Left to go out of town maybe 90 miles truck gives no problem. Next morning started truck and it runs and dies if u let it idle it might run 5 min and shut off. I have two identical trucks so other one helped finish the job out of town. Before I left, I always keep a spare cps, ipr and icp from what ive learned and read on here there usually the main causes of problems, i changed all 3 started up truck same syptoms skiping and eventually cuts off. Drove the truck home it died maybe 50 times in 90 miles but luckly got back home. I have also learned about the AE tool so I ordered one got it here and these are the codes I got so far

C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Input Circuit
C1233 Speed Wheel LF Input Signal Missing
C1158 Speed Wheel Sensor LF Coherency Fault

B1352 Ignition Key In Circuit Failure

P1280 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P1690 Wastegate Solenorid Circuit
P0381 Glow Plug Heater Indicator Circuit
P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected
P1247 Turbo Charger Boost Pressure Low
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor
P1211 Injector Control Pressure Higher/Lower Than Desired (Engine Running)

I can Probably find out more but still trying to learn the AE tool alittle better. Also ABS light has been on for years so thats nothing new. On the third cps since problems started but no visable change. And also seem to be getting pleanty of fuel from the pump.

Any help or advice you can give me will be greatly appreciated thanks

 

Welcome to FTE...Have you checked the 42 pin connector on top of the drivers valve cover for frays?Have you done the .50 cent mod on the truck?It could be a loose UVCH.Under valve cover harness.
It really has the symptoms of a bad CPS but you have replaced it several times.This thread has both items mentioned.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...rpms-long.html

 

Do you have a tuner/chip/programmer ? (P1211 is indicating that)... If so, remove it and try again..
And I agree, you should also check your wire harness plug, and the possibility of a loose under the valve cover connector..(a common problem that gives you a P1316 code)
And a Big Welcome to the Forum..!

 

No havent done the 50cent mod but have heard alot about it probably will try that next is there a way to pinpoint which valve cover it would be under. Does the 42pin harness have a name for the harness? As far as the tuner chip the truck is stock no chip

 

Also forgot to mention I have checked the harness earlier and found no messed up wires thanks for getting back to me so quick on the questions Ive been fighting this problem for a while

 

Just seeing that long list of codes makes me think that it's a bad electrical connection somewhere.
Easiest is to swap out the relays, I wouldn't think that they would last forever.
From there I would suspect some corrosion on the plug connectors killing the circuit.
Do you live anywhere where they salt the roads?

 

There is a way but most just go ahead and get both sides done while they are doing it.It is also a good time to re-torque the injector hold down bolts and rocker arm pedestal bolts.


You'll want to torque the lower injector hold down bolts (circled in blue) to 120 in-lbs. Yes that is INCH -lbs.

Then torque the rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft lbs <!-- / message --><!-- attachments -->
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I have found a way to check with a multimeter on one of the other fourms but is there a way to check with the AE?

 

Used to live in north carolina but not much salt on the road where i lived. Last 2 years lived in middle georgia doesnt rain here no snow for sure. But I do live on a rough dirt road making me think its gonna be a under the valve cover problem due to all the bumps

 

Also after clearing all the codes turning the key off and rechecking the codes without starting it or driving it I only get the
P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected
PO470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor
C1155 Speed Wheel Sensor LF input Circuit Failure

But I have found the reason for the sps code due to a wire worn almost in half by the tire dont know if the other codes not showing up after the restart mean anything but thought it was worth letting u know

 

You can do the injector buzz test with AE. That will check the electrical circuit and will spit out the codes stored in the idm.

 

Ive read alot of the fourms say to run a buzz test. And trying not to ask a stupid question but what is a buzz test and how do I run it with AE?

 

You can check out Ken's site. He put together some good info on AE. I don't have AE so can't help much there.

https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt.../autoenginuity

 

Ok I figured out the buzz test and here are the results 2 & 4 sounded weak. Then it gave me a

P1272 cylinder 2 High to Low side open
P1274 cylinder 4 High to Low side open

Also ran a Contribution Test and got

P0266 Cylinder 2 injector Circuit Contributor Balance Fault

 

I have also had time to check some of the relays and swap some of them around didnt seem to have any effect also checked fuses but all seem ok