Starting Issue (HELP)
I am new to this forum so I just wanted to say HELLO!
I just paid $2500.00 for a Ford F250 with a 5.8 with only 20 miles on it. When I went to look at the truck it worked and drove fine. Well I picked the truck up today. My step father towed the truck bed side up. Only one gas tank in the back. The truck was on E but it did start because we had to get it out of the spot it was in. We towed it home and put it in my driveway. I tried to start the truck. It sounds like it wants to start. When I turn the key I don't hear the fuel pump turn on but I don't remember hearing it even when it did start.
I just was wondering if anyone has had this problem? Maybe the ground wire came of. I really don't know but I will be looking at it tomorrow. There was no daylight so I had to call it a day.
EDIT: I did put gas in it!
New Radiator
Universal Brakes
Calipers Rotor
Daul Manifold
Inner and outer rockers
New gas tank/sender/pump
The truck started today. Some times it has a problem starting. Anyone know or have had this problem?
EDIT: (THIS IS MY FIRST TRUCK)

nothing is attached to this.

I have no clue what this is. The wires on it are in really bad shape.

engine from let

engine from right

I really need to make this truck run as perfected as it can. This will be my truck untill the end of time. I am on a budget and do not want to ask a mechanic because they will make it worse then it is. I always loved fords and was never able to aford one. PLEASE I need some help!!!
The reason I posted the last two photos is because maybe you might see somthing that is missing.

First I would inspect the wires going to the frame mounted fuel pump. Pretty sure you have one in-tank and one on the frame under the drivers door (approx location). Next check that the pigtail for the fuel pump relay is good and that the relay itself is good. (I just went through all this in the last 6 months it's mostly fresh in my memory). Those relays are on the drivers side inner fender well.
The loose connectors you found are for the OBD1 code reader.
Nothing attached to that tin can is stock. It is the can to muffle the exhaust from the air pump when it dumps air (have no idea why Ford thought that was important).
The other part is the EGR Vacuum Solenoid. Most likely if you do what most of the guys on here did you will probably do away with that whole EGR system, but if not just fix up the wires. (That solenoid is about 73 bucks from Rock Auto so hope it's still good)
I fixed all my EGR system stuff because I did it before I got on this forum. It never occurred to me to take all that crud off the engine before I started reading here. Could have saved a fortune coming here first!

Good luck with your new truck!
As I was trying to learn what-was-what on my F250 I looked at all of the EGR parts to learn what they were so I could figure out their function.
You may want to look at their listing for your truck you can learn a lot there too. (And their prices are pretty reasonable and their shipping is very fast).
Welcome to FTE land....

And Bykermom-You're doing SPLENDID.....it's good to see women folk around these parts....
How exactly does it behave when it doesn't start? No crank, crank but no light off, sputters while cranking, starts then dies?
Details like this give clues as to where to suggest looking.
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He didn't say for sure what the year of his truck is, but from his nickname I was assuming an 88. His setup under the hood looks very similar to mine, except for the HD emissions aren't there that I can see.
I was just guessing, but I think what I said is relevant if I'm right about the year.
I am trying to give back a bit, as you guys are helping me give TLC to my truck that I couldn't do without you all
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

If it was factory with one tank:




Short pin 2 to pin 6, turn on the key and see if the fuel pumps run.

I did not see the computer ground wire coming off the NEG post of the battery in the photo. Make sure it has one, it should be a small black wire with a green stripe.
Also make sure you have a good large (10GA) ground wire running from the NEG post to the Body.
/
SideWinder4.9l: The truck is a 1988 F250 with a F350 in it. It has two gas caps but only one tank is in the truck. Thank you for your welcome!
weskan: Yes there is a stereo amplifier in the truck. The stereo works perfectly. When I try to start the truck it wants to start. No sputter and it does not start then die. When I went to look at the truck before I paid for it. The truck had no problem starting at all. I started it up and took it for a ride. When I got back to my house it would not start. It cranks and sounds like it wants to start. I don't think gas it going where it needs to go.
subford: Thank you for the diagrams they are vary helpful. Once I get my relays today I will be working on the truck. I will take a look to see if there is one.
Thank you all for all the help. I will let you know how it goes and if the truck starts. You all have been really helpful and I really appreciate it. thanks for the luck!
Welcome to you also Bykrmom.
Like one of the other guys said, nice to have a female here. I am sure there are also others. Maybe you could explain to my wife why us men seem to have an unexplainable love affair with our old Ford trucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I said it before.. no explaining the love affair with old ford trucks (they cost a FORTUNE!) unless Ford used kitten DNA in the manufacture. NO ONE can resist a new kitten (until they become a cat LOL)
An engine needs 3 things to run (or start in your situation).
1. Compression.
2. Fuel.
3. Spark.
Most commonly, spark is the issue. You can test your coil by unplugging the coil wire from the distributor cap and plugging a good spark plug into the end of the wire. Ground the plug on the block and crank the motor over. Don't touch it while cranking if you don't like pain. If you see a good fat spark, coil is good. Move down the ignition line.
Check your: plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor. If there is any doubt to their condition, replace. This is maintenance, and I've found mine to require replacement about every 60,000-80,000 miles.
To check fuel, first listen closely when you switch the key to "ON" (not start) and see if you hear a "buzzzzzzzzz click". This is the easy way to check the fuel pump relay.
Not sure about your truck, but many have a shreader valve to check fuel pressure on driver side fuel rail. I think you need >40psi for the injectors to fire. Replace the fuel filter if pressure is low, then retest. If its still low, you have a weak fuel pump.
Compression testers can be pretty cheap, and if you're replacing spark plugs anyway, thats a good time to use one. For reference, at 850ft altitude, my 5.8 measured ~160psi in each hole. You'll want pretty even compression across all 8 for a healthy motor.
These are some places to start, looks like that truck may have been mildly neglected and will likely need a fair amount of attention. Keep asking questions and we'll see if we can help.
1.The truck has new spark plugs and has spark.
2. The fuel pump makes no noise. In my second post I wrote down what was new in the truck. When I went to look at the truck it started. The fuel pump never made a noise. I don't know what kind of pump is in it but the guy I got it from is not cheap. Money is a play thing for him.
3. Compression I do not know I have not looked into that.
All I know it fuel is not getting to the engine. The guy paid $500.00 for the truck. he put all new hoes in the truck. Here is the list I posted the second time.
New Radiator
Universal Brakes
Calipers Rotor
Dual Manifold
Inner and outer rockers
New gas tank/sender/pump
The reason he sold me the truck was because I wanted it. Hes a really good but bizzy friend. I gave the truck back to him to look over. I paid $2500.00 for it and he said when he gets the time he will see whats wrong. thank you for your help and I hope I will be driving my truck soon....












