Refurb or Rebuild?
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Here is what my manifold looks like; the EGR hole is the small oval below the two larger ones.
I don't remember exactly, but I did pop can/paper gasket/followed by the rest (including a wooden spacer to reduce heat transfer to the carb).
I didn't like the idea of hot exhaust gases being stopped by something not well-suited to that purpose.
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I don't remember exactly, but I did pop can/paper gasket/followed by the rest (including a wooden spacer to reduce heat transfer to the carb).
I didn't like the idea of hot exhaust gases being stopped by something not well-suited to that purpose.
.
.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
I made a block-off plate for my EGR valve out of a pop can. A few years later, I decided to open it back up. Took the EGR valve loose, pulled out the "block-off" plate, and discovered it had burned thru the pop can. Twice. Both passages (in and out) were punched thru.....
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
ctubutis - Are you saying that you didn't have a gasket between the manifold and the can? This one had a gasket below the EGR valve, so surely that would be designed to live in that environment? And, why can't I install the gasket "backwards" which will put gasket material between the exhaust and the aluminum. Or, should I make a plate out of stainless - I have some.
Forgot to say that RW's experience is exactly what I would expect w/the exhaust hitting the aluminum shield.
Forgot to say that RW's experience is exactly what I would expect w/the exhaust hitting the aluminum shield.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Ridgeview, WV
Gary, I'm glad I didn't sell you that engine now. Since the transmission that came out of that truck is an E4OD, I can't get a bypass circuit for it. It's cheaper to remove the computer from that truck and put both it and my windsor in my 85. I'm gonna miss my straight six, but at least I'll be able to drive the Mario Cart as I call it. And yes, I know I'm gonna have to switch the gas tanks out as well. At least I have everything to do it, so I don't have to worry about paying out too much more money.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Ridgeview, WV
I have everything from the other truck, including the wiring harness. So now worries on that department. I try to make it a habbit of saving things if I know I need them. Actually, this was my back-up plan all along. I was just hoping to use my straight six because I'm more familiar with those engines than any other.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 907
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From: nw pa.
hey
i found the correct size freeze plug to block this hole off!
DORMAN 555-097 and/or 555-306
both are very close... i will know which is best soon.
ps:went to your website very cool taking care of the old man like that.
i found the correct size freeze plug to block this hole off!
DORMAN 555-097 and/or 555-306
both are very close... i will know which is best soon.
ps:went to your website very cool taking care of the old man like that.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
And, which old man are you talking about - my dad or me? Both of us qualify.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I glued the can directly to the manifold.
I think I did:
Then a paper gasket, followed by a thin steel spacer plate (got from a speed shop), followed by another paper gasket, followed by the wooden spacer, followed by another paper gasket, followed by the carb.
I think that's what I did, I forgot to look today, and it's cold & dark & wet outside right now so I won't go check.
This one had a gasket below the EGR valve, so surely that would be designed to live in that environment? And, why can't I install the gasket "backwards" which will put gasket material between the exhaust and the aluminum. Or, should I make a plate out of stainless - I have some.
Forgot to say that RW's experience is exactly what I would expect w/the exhaust hitting the aluminum shield.
Forgot to say that RW's experience is exactly what I would expect w/the exhaust hitting the aluminum shield.
But I put less than 1,000 miles a year on my truck and, when I checked it, it wasn't even close to there being a problem.
I'm having a hard time envisioning what is already in your head - pictures of how that setup actually goes together and what goes where. Without at least some understanding of what it is you're working with, I'm hesitant to give advice on what I think you can and/or should (not) do.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
I will say this much, the time between putting the block-off plate in, and deciding to remove it, was about 6-8 years. Probably close to 50K miles, with about 1/3 of those being trailer duty.
Your mileage may vary.....
Your mileage may vary.....
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Ok, ok. Pictures coming, but not tomorrow. Headed to see Dad and then go to the machine shop. Have my SUV loaded: block; rods & pistons; a bag of valves and springs; and 3 D8OE heads. Apparently these heads are easily cracked 'cause one of the heads I pulled off the engine in the truck was cracked. Couldn't find another D8OE head so went w/D7's, which are rail-rocker - not a good design but all that was available cheaply. But, have come up w/3 more since then so will take a backup. And, the bag of valves & springs are the ones that came out of the D8's. Maybe I won't have to buy too many.
I'll peruse the MPC and see what the gasket between the manifold and EGR valve was. Maybe it was designed to take the heat and erosion. And, I do have a piece of SS that should make a very nice plate. Might try the Al first and then go to SS if need be.
Tnx, guys.
I'll peruse the MPC and see what the gasket between the manifold and EGR valve was. Maybe it was designed to take the heat and erosion. And, I do have a piece of SS that should make a very nice plate. Might try the Al first and then go to SS if need be.
Tnx, guys.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Spent yesterday in KS visiting Toto, and took the engine to the machine shop as well. Came out today to do the picture(s) to explain my thinking on the intake, gaskets, heat shield, etc. Well, I discovered that taking a picture of gaskets that I don't have is difficult. So, here's a CAD drawing:
And, a couple of pics of the heat shield:
If I can find a thick lower gasket that appears to be designed to contain the exhaust gas then I'll probably use the aluminum heat shield. However, if I can't find the right gasket or the heat shield burns through then I'll make a shield out of the .075" stainless I have.
And, a couple of pics of the heat shield:
If I can find a thick lower gasket that appears to be designed to contain the exhaust gas then I'll probably use the aluminum heat shield. However, if I can't find the right gasket or the heat shield burns through then I'll make a shield out of the .075" stainless I have.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I don't see why that wouldn't work, it's very similar to what I did, only better.
I don't understand the purpose of the heat shield nor all the exhaust plumbing on your engine but that's OK, so long as you do.
My compressed sandwich looks like so:
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I don't understand the purpose of the heat shield nor all the exhaust plumbing on your engine but that's OK, so long as you do.
My compressed sandwich looks like so:
.
.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Ctubutis - I don't understand it either, which is one reason it isn't going back on. But, I'm betting the heat shield is to protect the gas in the rear bowl on the Holley, which is quite close to the EGR valve. Now, if they'd have used a Carter or Rochester with the bowl in the center there probably wouldn't have been a problem.
RW - The spacer would be a good idea. Keeps the carb cool even when we get to 110.
RW - The spacer would be a good idea. Keeps the carb cool even when we get to 110.