Stud Extractor suggestions?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 778
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From: southeast Idaho
Once you get the nut welded on, let it cool a bit, tighten it first, then loosen.. Just go back and forth, it takes a while but usually works very well..
If it does brerak again you are not out anything, just a half inch you dont have to drill...
If it does brerak again you are not out anything, just a half inch you dont have to drill...
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,235
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Post # 3 vice grip trick, Harbor Freight ah....no comment, try Fastenall for the good stuff.
Drilling thru weld goobers is no fun and keeps you from getting a good center punch mark.
Drilling thru weld goobers is no fun and keeps you from getting a good center punch mark.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
There's so many ways to do it. Drill it, extract it, vise grip(good sharp grip curved jaw ones) or welding. I wanna know what the welder is cause you need a good hot one put in there first try not a 110 buzzbox with the setting too cold or too much wire speed and it stubs back and doesn't penetrate.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: nor cal
No luck fellas, 73FG.. the welder was a 110 harbor freight buzzbox I couldn't get any penetration. Drilling was the last thing i wanted to do, but it looks like I might have to. I know any ez out tool wont work, this bolt is seized!
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
Likes: 4
From: Victoria , BC
Well I pretty much new the welder trick wasn't going to work as those 110 welders are pretty useless. You needed a 230v mig again for a good hot weld. You know my bracket for my Saginaw pump has a long threaded rod out of block in that same spot and the 7/16 would flex too much after tightening causing a bad alignment on belt. I drilled out the hole to just make it smooth taking out 7/16 threads and tapped it. The 1/2" rod now doesn't flex and belt aligns better.
So drilling isn't the worst thing but going to a larger 1/2" should eliminate this problem down the road as it would be much tougher to break.
So drilling isn't the worst thing but going to a larger 1/2" should eliminate this problem down the road as it would be much tougher to break.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: nor cal
update
Alright I'm almost done, I have a few concerns I'd like to point out...the tap I used only made 3 or 4 good threads. I don't think that's going to work out..do I now need to get a tap with a barbed tip? or no? Also the plate is warped...im wondering if i should go down to picknpull and get one tomorrow..
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,083
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From: Victoria , BC
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New User
Joined: Jul 2011
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Best thing I've found for broken bolts/studs is an air hammer. A lot of times (if the part can withstand the force) a good air hammer with a flat bit (shaped like the head of a hammer) will hit it hard enough to break the bond of the rust. That and some good penetrating oil will get it finger loose. I prefer and reccomend kroil. Works like a charm and a good air hammer with some good power and you got it no problem. Good luck
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Victoria , BC
Originally Posted by FordmanShane
so do you think about the thread issue?
You might have to go up to 9/16 budz , but be sure to start with a good hole probably just knocking out old threads and do it again. Slow and steady. 1/2 a turn in 2 turns out. I had a bad tap hole like this once and it was most likely I took too much material out in one go and chips jammed taking out fresh threads and no oil.
Good luck
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: nor cal