When you get to the spot your going to set up at and it's not level, do you start with it hooked to the truck or put the landing gear down to take some of the weight off the hitch and using a level or the levels attached to the trailer. I have wheel chocks, pieces of 3x3, 2x6 need to get some plywood pieces for small adjustments. Any tip/tricks appreciated, I can't be the only one scratching my head at times .

 

Level side to side first by placing blocks under the tires while still connected. Then disconnect and level front to back.

 

It payes to have a set of these with you......

Lynx Levelers RV Camper Motorhome 10 pack - $28.39

 

Oh Yes, love em., Also available at wally world, the 9th level of hell...

 

As suggested, you want to get level side to side before you even shut off your engine. I carry about a dozen pieces of 2x8 pressure treated lumber, about 12" long. I use those for leveling as well as jack pads. I've never needed to carry anything less than 1-1/2" thick (2x lumber). Leveling isn't super critical to be perfect, but if I want to get something half as thick, I just use an extra block under 1 tire and that gets you about half as much.

Most of the RV levels out there are graduated in 1" per 8' increments. So if your bubble is off 2 increments, you need to raise one side 2". With that value in mind I can usually hit the blocks right the first time. Sometimes it is wise to be a quarter-half bubble high on the side with a slide-out. That side will drop a little bit when you extend the slide.

Sometimes on dirt pads I just use a shovel on the high side instead of blocks. Dropping the tires into shallow divots really locks the trailer in place. You find that in primitive sites.

This really isn't any different than for pull-behind trailers.

 

Thanks for the info. Pulled into a site yesterday and had to pull ahead and back up twice placing boards before we had it close to level. Was just wondering if that's what is needs to be done sometimes.

Was searching at RV.net and came across this thread about air leveling bags.
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: LevelAir Style Air Bags - Build Your Own Thread
and a you tube DIY video...YouTube - ‪RV Leveling Airbags DIY‬‏

Looks interesting.

 

I'm with Bill on this one. I also carry a dozen or so pieces of 2x12 to help me level my 5'r.

 

Sure, sometimes. But with experience you'll get pretty good at hitting it the first time. See what I wrote about the bubble level increments.

Reports are those work well. And if you've got a compressor always handy, that method might interest you. Blocks work fine for me, so I don't really see the point.

 

+1 I carry 3 bags or 30 they come in handy in a lot of ways. They are lighter and easier to carry than wood. My wife likes building the ramps..... I got mine from Camping World..

 

I find that if on dirt or other material that is not level it is best to review the area around the RV wheels. You may determine that moving the wheels to a better position that is level. Works for me more than half the time without the use of blocks.

 

This is a nice discussion.

You should see some of the landing gear I have had to replace when someone tries to use the landing gear for side-to-side leveling. One camper parked on such a slope, next to a stream, I thought he was going to roll his fiver over. I had to use my hydraulic jacks to get him upright to the point where we could rehitch and pull him up.


Steve

 

When we were it Florida last year a motor home came in and when he was done leveling the front of the motor home was 3 feet off the ground. No blocks just used his stabilizing jacks.....

 

You know, I have seen folks do the same thing and it can cause incredible arguments. One thing I think gets folks in trouble is they think bi-action leveling in which two jacks always work in unison doesn't torque the frame. I have seen so many coaches spit out their windshields and side windows, and some of them have been really high end.

Steve

 

Went camping with my brother in law and saw him cussing and screaming that his hitch would not release. I went over to see what was wrong, he had leveled front to rear before disconnecting and jacked the back of his truck up. No wonder he could not release his hitch. He pulled basically the same trick getting ready to leave he could hot get the jaws to close, he had about 1/2 inch between his hitch pin and the hitch.....

 

At the Last NASCAR race at Texas, 4 TT's pulled in next to us at the last minute. If you have ever been to a Race, you will know that it is crowded, and you have a 20x40 space to occupyand that can be tough when everyone else has already setup. Well they pulled in without looking at leveling, they proceeded to get a hydralic jack and get under the TT's and jack the axles, and then put boards under the wheels. 3and a half hours later, they had the trailers level in their eyes. Everyone in our camp stood around and drank plenty as these guys made us tired and thirsty just watching. We asked if they needed some help but I think Bud and Miller had other ideas for them.
To me the key is pull in to where you think you want to park, look at the levels, pull forward or backup just enough to put in your levels, boards or plasitc, then pull forward. Normally you will get it in 1 try as you get proficient at the task. I try not to use jacks to level, I use jacks to stabilize, you jack one you screw the other.