Great work guys! Nice right up also.

 

Edited version with corrected photos, etc. sent to Roland. Hopefully it is on the link. You'll know it's the updated version if the photo pointing to the Glow Plug location is correct (my first one was not...ooops).

 

Great tool fabrication and a helluva write-up Roland and Mark.

Did you bring #1 to TDC by aligning the crank pulley timing mark with the timing indicator on the CPS and then go in firing order?
That would mean you would only have to turn the crank 45° to bring the next cylinder in firing order to TDC.

Edit: How the hell did I miss this thread on 7-3.

 

The pics are still the originals. For some reason the editted ones did not save. I saw the editted version and it looked fine, but I guess my computer skills did not allow me to properly save them and they got reverted back.

I was going to do that Robin, but we did the driver's side head before going to the passenger side. Frank turned the crankshaft while I watched, with my wire probe, for the piston to reach TDC with both valves closed. After installing the springs on that cylinder, I tightened the rocker arms slowly to let the lifters bleed down before torquing them.

 

I would probaly get all confused trying to do it in firing order. That was just the way my lazy azz was thinking.

The timing mark gets you in the ballpark but I would always check where the piston is with an indicator through the GP hole to be safe.

Also thanks for mentioning the valve stem seals. Certainly something that should be done while changing the valve springs. I hadn't even thought about that. DUH!

I've got the springs. Need to get the shims and seals. Hopefully I can borrow your McTool spring compressor this fall. It's going to be too hot until then.

 

i made a spring compressor...Clay, Peter, and a bunch of other guys at spring fling at about 2am. i then revamped it to make it better...here is the link...let me know if you have q's about it...im glad to lend it out...as long as i get it back when you are done. good luck

 

Robin,
You are sure welcome to borrow it. I have a few revisions to make on the protoype to improve it and then will be making another one or two. I want to start a loan-a-tool program with one and pass it around throughout the Brotherhood.

I built this version of a valve spring compressor because you don't have to rock the engine to gain clearance. There are only 3 that are a little tight. But using a wrench instead of a socket on the compressing bolt, you can do them almost just as easy as the others. It is a matter of technique.

 

OK...looks like Mueckster got the edited version linked up. Should be good to go.

 

Thanks Roland.

The loan-a-tool is a great idea.

I bought what I thought was a high end spring compressor with removable handle so it cold be used in a tight space using a 5/8" wrench, but it got broken. I took one of the 910 springs to Napa and made sure it would work and got the best they had, but when someone used it on a stock valve spring it bent and broke.

 

I am reviving this old thread, because.....well......it deserves it! I just used the McTool from Roland to replace the very, very worn out and tired valve springs on my wife's Excursion. The tool is awesome, Roland. I'll be sending it back to you this week, or on to whomever needs it next.

With the engine in the truck, this job is an 8 on the ole 1-10 scale. Out of the truck, I would give it a 3. Those rear springs on the 7 and 8 cylinders will really get on your nerves!!! I did well until the last spring (#7), at which point I dropped a valve spring retainer (tiny little buggers) down into the oil drain in the head. I had to go buy a skinny etching tool with a magnet on the end to fish it out. That took a while, since it happened Sunday evening after all the stores closed. The telescoping magnet I had would not fit down in the hole. I was about to go and buy some more spring retainers at International, but I fished it out right before I was going to head to town. Anyway, a steady hand and plenty of relaxation breaks gets this job done. The springs that came out....I could compress them with my hand easily (like squeezing a tennis ball). The Comp 910s I put in, I could barely get to move squeezing them the same way. Not very scientific, but obvious difference none-the-less.

I also tossed in some new Motorcraft glow plugs while I was in there. The ones that came out were made in Ireland, the ones that went in were made in Germany (Beru). They were starting to look bad on the ends, but not too bad after 226k.

So, the truck fired right up on the first crank. I immediately noticed it sounded a little different. Test drive is next after I break in the springs per the Comp Cams instructions.

To all those who did this in the truck before me without a TOPSIDE CREEPER, I salute you! I cannot imagine doing this without the creeper....

 

Mueckster's were put in without a topside creeper. Between him, Franko, and myself (mainly Mueckster though)...the "breaks" were productive in that another person could be on top working. Roland's sofa pad thingy works great for laying on top of engines.

 

You guys are "real men" in my book then...I still haven't given it a "good" test drive yet. Tomorrow I think.

 

I got an old gym mat, that works awesome. Too many hood latches, spearing in the gut, that i had to find something...

Anyhow, these springs, is it something to replace wit hamount of "miles" on the motor, besides the hp behind it? reason i ask, not sure if the thread was here or some other forum, but the dude had 225k on his EX, and decided to change them out..(stock truck). When replacing them, he INSTANTLY noticed a more responsive/snappy..etc response from the truck. Also, he noted ,that the stock ones , he could collapse with his fingers vs no movement at all from the 910's.

 

Tim, that is me! LOL

Roland also noticed the same things with his truck when he did the springs. Smoother, quieter and more crisp motor operation. There is DEFINITELY a noticeable difference with this mod. NO QUESTION about that in my mind at all. The valves in the motor are operating as they should now, with no valve float. As weak as the springs were I removed from the X, there had to be some valve float in there that was affecting the operation of the engine negatively. No way I should have been able to compress them with my hand...

 

double post...