I do not in any way to move pulley.
This kind of clamp to linkkin image
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ke...1_195940_1.gif
Even if I try 1 / 2 "crank pulley is not moving as anything: (
Do any of the first screw to loosen or release the lock?

 

What are you trying to do? Are you trying to lock the tensioner to get the belt off? If so there is a tab, at the bottom left of the tensioner on the picture you posted. That tab will lock the tensioner in the up position to allow you to take of the belt. Pull on the belt from the passenger side (by the alternater), and have someone push in that tab to lock the tensioner up. After that you can take the belt off to do whatever it is you are trying to do. When you get done simply put the belt back where it was and pull on it again. This will allow the spring loaded tab to pop back out, and you can release the belt.

 

There is nothing locking the tensioner - it is spring loaded against the serpentine belt to give in tension. If you cannot move it away from the belt with a 1/2 inch drive then it is probably seized and will need replacing.
To verify - grip the belt both sides of the alternator and squeeze together - if it does not move then the tensioner is seized.

 

Have you ever tryed to get a 1/2" drive on the tensioner on one of these trucks? It's almost impossible. The easiest thing to do is just pull on the belt from the passenger side, then lock the tensioner with the tab. By just pulling on the belt (on the passsenger side of the alt only) it will pull the tensioner up, witch will allow you to lock it. If it won't move then the tensioner might be siezed. Not saying it can't or won't happen, but it would be the first I have heard of one siezing, and not tearing the belt off or just falling to pieces.

 

What is the picture you sent?
What needs to be unzipped so that the tensioner should move?
It does not move to any: (

 

I didn't send any pic. You posted one in your first post. That's the one I was talking about. There is nothing to do to make the tensioner move. It is, as Paul stated above, spring loaded against the belt. Is the belt still on the truck? If so stand on the passenger side, by the tire, and grab the belt and pull towards the battery. If it will move then your tensioner is moving. At that point, if you can, have another person reach in and push on the lock so the tensioner will stay up. I will see if I can find a better pic of the lock and post it here for you to see what I'm talking about.

 

Texans - they can definitely seize up, it happened to mine.
The first indication I had that there was something wrong was squealing from the belt after startup (alternator at max load).
After replacing the tensioner - I took the old one on the bench and could not even move it with a 1/2 inch bar and a hammer.

 

Here are some pictures in this thread:

6L Alternator is out - TheDieselGarage.com

from another thread posted by "Iqoair"

"No need to remove the shroud. This is actually a pretty easy task, just replaced mine. Here's how you can do it in about 30 minutes or less. If it's your second time you can probably do it in 15 minutes.

Procedure :

Reach over from the passenger side with your left arm and grab the belt just above the tensioner and pull hard enough to be able to flip up the spring loaded locking tab on the underside of the tensioner up (This takes some muscle, but not too bad I used a long flat head screw driver to flip it up with my right arm and lock it in place. Now you have enough slack to pop the belt off the top side of the alternator pulley. Pop the belt off the rest of the pulleys and then you have to crawl under the truck and remove the belt from the crankshaft pulley folding it sideways and forward so you can lift it up and out from the top side of the truck (Same side as tensioner). You have to fold it sideways to get enough clearance to slip it past the fan shroud. After you get the belt off, inspect all the pulleys for noise, play and roughness. I replaced both of the tensioner pulley bearings (6203-2RS) for about $10. I think the water pump and idler pulley bearings are also the same bearing. The bearings are easily pressed out, just make sure you press them back out of the tapered side or you will expand bearing retaining hole making the pulley useless (Side that has the rounded edges where the bearing sits). Getting the serpentine belt back on is a little more tricky. The upper side of the radiator support on my 06 has a diagram that helped. Hardest part I found was getting the belt around the smooth side tensioner pulley and a/c compressor pulley. Once everything is lined up properly (Triple check this or you will destroy the belt), yank HARD again on the belt in the same place you did to release the tension. This time you can use both hands or your right hand to do it if you want. The tensioner clip will pop back out of place automatically. DON'T PRY the clip back down, you WILL break or damage the clip!

Hope this helps !"

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5424176

 

Here is the best I have the grey arrow is pointing at the lock in this picture


Here is a poto of the a tensioner I had laying around. Obiously it's the item at the top of pic. You can see the lock and how it works pretty good on this one. The tensioner is also upside down from the way it sits in the motor if that helps any.

 

They can abosolutly sieze. In fact the one that went out in my truck I beleave siezed, but becasue of siezing it broke the belt and the tensioner fell apart (sort of). I agree with you that they can sieze, but just never personaly seen one do this and not cause some pretty obious symtoms. Ie...belt being broke. Yeah, no argument here that they can sieze. You are right.

 

Reach hoitaakseen matkustajan puolella vasemmalla kädellä käsi ja nappaa vyön yläpuolella kiristin ja vedä tarpeeksi vaikeaa pystyä Nosta jousikuormitettu lukituskieleke alapuolella kiristimen ylös (Tämä vie jonkin lihaksen, mutta ei liian huono käytin pitkään litteä pää ruuvimeisseli kääntää sen kanssa oikeaa kättäni ja lukitse se paikalleen. nyt sinulla on tarpeeksi löysällä pop vyön päältä puolella laturin hihnapyörän. Pop vyö pois loput hihnapyörät ja sitten on ryömiä auton ja poista vyö pois kampiakselin hihnapyörä taitto se sivuttain ja eteenpäin niin voit nostaa sen ylös ja ulos ylhäältä puolella kuorma (samalla puolella kuin kiristin).
Sinun taita se sivuttain saada tarpeeksi tilaa luistaa se ohi tuulettimen suojus. Kun saat vyön pois, tarkastaa kaikki hihnapyörät melun, leikkiä ja karheutta. Vaihdoin molemmat kiristimen hihnapyörän laakerit (6203-2RS) noin 10 dollaria. Mielestäni vesipumpun ja kaapelipyörän laakerit ovat myös samat laakeri.Laakerit ovat helposti puristettua ulos, vain varmista, painat ne takaisin ulos kapenevat puolella tai olet laajenee laakeri säilyttäen reiän tekeminen hihnapyörä hyödytön (puoli, jossa on pyöristetyt reunat, jossa laakeri istuu).
Getting kiemurteleva vyön takaisin on hieman mutkikkaampi. Yläpuoli säteilijän tukea minun 06 on kaavio, joka auttoi. Vaikeinta löysin oli saada hihna sileä puoli hihnapyörä ja / C kompressori pyörä. Kun kaikki on linjassa oikein (Triple Check tämä tai mennä pilalle vyö), jenkkiin HARD jälleen vyö samassa paikassa teit vapauttamaan jännitystä. Tällä kertaa voit käyttää molempia käsiä tai oikealla kädellä tehdä sen jos haluat.Kiristin clip ponnahtaa takaisin ulos automaattisesti. Älä väännä leikkeen takaisin alas, saat rikkoa tai vahingoittaa leike!

Toivottavasti tämä auttaa! "

 

WTH????

 

He lives in Finland, so I thought I'd try a translator. His translator probably works better, but thought I'd try.

Rado has been trying to figure out His real rough cold starts. He had put up a video of it a week or so ago.

You can kind of skim his past post to get an idea of where he is at with his motor.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...archid=4458954

 

Thank you guys!
Clamp does not move anything but the belt is tight.
Do I open 2pcs screws and remove the entire tensioner and see what it has eaten?

 

Right On Sean way to get the translater going


did you do that in spell check or something