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Is your trailer a 30 amp? If it's a 50 amp, you might be ok as long as you don't try to run too much. Mine's a 50 amp and I haven't tried to run anything on a 30 amp convertor yet. Maybe RV TECH will chime in.
As you know, your AC unit or units have 20 amp circuit breakers, so you will not be in danger of blowing a 30 amp shoreline provided you do not have a load of other appliances turned on such as the water heater and microwave all at the same time. I think it is great that you are considering your overall load.
You will find the unit draws more amps on heat than when it is cooling, so you do bump up against your limits more quickly. Watch your voltage and do be aware when you run right at the edge, a 30 amp breaker may not blow, but you can melt the crap out of your shoreline or voltage protector, if you are using one.
I just had a boy melt the end off his 50 amp shoreline when plugged into a 30 amp shoreline. Folks sometimes forget things can get hot enough to melt without blowing a breaker. He was running right on the edge with two rooftops ACs. If you tried running your air conditioner off an extension cord, you know what I mean.
I think everyone should use a voltage monitor in their rigs. As you know, amp draw goes up on inductive loads such as motors (compressors, etc.) when voltage drops.
The rig is 50amps. We are using a progressive surge protector at the campground pole, but understand that it only protects against a surge and not a draw on power.
You will find the unit draws more amps on heat than when it is cooling, so you do bump up against your limits more quickly.
Steve
Just for everyone's formation a heat pump that is operating in the heat pump mode does not draw more amps than the same unit running in the a/c mode and the colder it gets outside the lower the amp draw goes. In the a/c mode the outside temp can be in the 90-100' range where the inside temp in the heat pump mode the inside temp well be right around the 70' range so the compressor will see lower head pressures so it will draw fewer amps. I know the commercial and residential units I installed and serviced for years were more complicated and efficient but the same basic operation is the same.
Just for everyone's formation a heat pump that is operating in the heat pump mode does not draw more amps than the same unit running in the a/c mode and the colder it gets outside the lower the amp draw goes. In the a/c mode the outside temp can be in the 90-100' range where the inside temp in the heat pump mode the inside temp well be right around the 70' range so the compressor will see lower head pressures so it will draw fewer amps. I know the commercial and residential units I installed and serviced for years were more complicated and efficient but the same basic operation is the same.
Denny
Denny,
I worded my inital response poorly. In RVs, heat pump models have a higher compressor draw and higher motor draw than cool only units, thus higher amp draw than cool only units, which is what my response should have reflected, if it were accurate.
I worded my inital response poorly. In RVs, heat pump models have a higher compressor draw and higher motor draw than cool only units, thus higher amp draw than cool only units, which is what my response should have reflected, if it were accurate.
Thanks for catching that,
Steve
Same compressor and same motor the only difference is the reversing valve and control board and it is not energized in the heat pump mode only the a/c mode that's why you hear the swish noise when the unit cycle off in the a/c mode ( it goes back to the heat mode). I the real world not on a test bench the unit will draw less in the heat pump mode because of the outside temp it will be used at.
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