been going around for a while on this one. about two weeks ago just turned over but no fire one morning. started with ficm and did the solder reflow trick. seemed to work then no start two days later. started thinking IRP and when advised to plug in block heater started right away. decided to get the ipr out and take a look. it was fine, clean screen, no blockage so ICP seemed the logical next step. eaiser to get out than the IRP but nothing to check out so i replaced it at a cost of 150$. still no start but not that mad yet. when working with a friend he noticed that when not "firing up" at cold start it whould "try to fire" on what seemed like one cylinder. he is thinking glow plugs or some relation to that system. starts fine when warm or after two hours with block heater plugged in when cold (keep in mind it's been 90 degrees + here). all new filters - oil, air and fuel also fresh oil. over 1/4 tank fuel and runs AWESOME once started - no lack of power or any sign of trouble. 114k miles 6.o psd excursion 2004 - 2wd.

any help would be appreciated! by the way, yes, ive gone thru the no start check list. worst thing is no codes or check engine light.

 

IMO it could still be the FICM. Know anyone that would let you do a swap for a test?

 

id go with the ficm or the injectors are not operating properly.could be sticking.id want to see the ficm voltage during the cranking.if the voltage is low during the starting of the vehicle then the ficm is traking a dump.seeings how you have already opened up the ficm then you will have a hard time gettin your core out of a company that rebuildsthem.i use bulletproof diesel for my ficm repairs.cost about 300 bucks they have done me a great job.or you can buy a rebilt ficm with the latest software loaded on to it for 501 bucks from thedieselstore.com.good luck

 

i do not have anyone with a 6.0 to swap out with. i will check voltage today after work on the ficm when i have a cranking partner. thanks guys i will post KOEO and cranking voltage laster today.

 

ficm voltage no good. i get 48 with key on engine off, then down to 13 - 27 when cranking.

even when working properly the voltage would be at 12.9 untill the wait to start (glow plug symbol) would turn off then it would jump to 48v. is that normal or should it have been 48 as soon as you turn the key?

is there any other option than ficm? i hate to spend 350 - 500 $$$'s when i haven't gotten a code or any other problem. also, can anyone help me wrap my head around why the block heater being plugged in could make it possible to start?

 

any chance this could have anything to do with hpop? going to order an ficm tomorrow if i can't find any new demon to chase. tried the plug in method again tonight and still no start. checked ficm voltage and still 27v when cranking. give me something to check/test before i shell out 500$ with no codes.

 

Send the FICM off for repair - for $225.

Ed Stefan at FICMrepair.com

I highly recommend him. He goes by 5030tinkerer here on FTE.

 

IMO 13-27 olts cranking isnt enough to fire the injectors

mine stays at 48 at ALL times koeo--- crank--- koer = 47-49 volts at all times

do you know what your ficm vehicle power is, and your ficm lodgic power is both should be 12 volts

have you checked batterys and alternator voltage

just a couple of thoughts

 

i have been convinced the ficm is the problem since the begining (thanks to all the research and testing procedures found here) but wanted to rule out any other posibilities. this site gives me a lot of confidence to make decisions - so thanks to all who have provided input. i will contact ficmrepair.com today about getting my unit to them. just a note: i started with battery/atlernater and even load checked the bats at my local ap store when this first started, i also have been charging them every couple of days throught this ordeal because of all the attempts to start.

i will post results when ficm is back and installed, hopefully good news!

 

Too bad you couldn't have waited for the FICM from Bullet Proof Diesel.

It is the best one since sliced bread.

 

I don't read about very many repeat failures on repaired FICMs (at least the ones repaired by shops). Hopefully the BPD one isn't much more than the repair costs!

 

thanks mark, i contacted Ed Stefan at FICMrepair.com and got the unit back thursday (two days ago). put it in right away and i'm back in business. truck seems to be back to normal and i've had no trouble yet.

once again ford-trucks.com saved me a lot of money!

 

Glad to hear it! Ed is a great guy.

I have saved so much due to this forum, it is nice to help others do so.