Question for the frame engineers
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I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 109
From: Northshore, MN
Even using the standards for the materials in the stock-lists at work, vary from one company to another for the same dimensions.
i asked the same on the HAMB, and the answer there is varied as well... but they say 6x2 is fine, either 1/8" wall or 3/16" The suspension brackets are a U shape that fit over the rail, with a 3" ID. So I figured using the 3" rail would just be easier. I plan on holesawing a couple holes for sockets on the back side of the rails where the running board brackets and such bolt on. I also intend to use L brackets where the cab mounts are, and stuff like that. Crossmembers will be welded on, and of smaller dimensions. The rails at the suspension points are of different sizes too, so it's mainly the center between axles that is 6". 3" gives plenty of surface on top for any holes that need to be drilled. 2" may be fine, but I keep coming back to the U brackets being 3" ID. Decisions, decisions, lol.
i asked the same on the HAMB, and the answer there is varied as well... but they say 6x2 is fine, either 1/8" wall or 3/16" The suspension brackets are a U shape that fit over the rail, with a 3" ID. So I figured using the 3" rail would just be easier. I plan on holesawing a couple holes for sockets on the back side of the rails where the running board brackets and such bolt on. I also intend to use L brackets where the cab mounts are, and stuff like that. Crossmembers will be welded on, and of smaller dimensions. The rails at the suspension points are of different sizes too, so it's mainly the center between axles that is 6". 3" gives plenty of surface on top for any holes that need to be drilled. 2" may be fine, but I keep coming back to the U brackets being 3" ID. Decisions, decisions, lol.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
You shouldn't drill into the flanges if it can be avoided (top and bottom surfaces of rectangular tube). I'd also be inclined to bolt crossmembers in, if you expect any frame flex.
What are the actual dimensions of the IFS "U" inside? It would suck if it's 2.97" and the tube steel is 3.050" across... easier to add than remove from the tube.
What are the actual dimensions of the IFS "U" inside? It would suck if it's 2.97" and the tube steel is 3.050" across... easier to add than remove from the tube.
Thread Starter
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I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 109
From: Northshore, MN
I hope not to drill the top, and that's why I mentioned L brackets welded on, but I haven't got into the engine bay part of it yet. I ordered the shop manual for the Jeep, so am waiting on that, too. but if the tolerances are of need of some milling, the mill at work can take care of that, hopefully.
In a nutshell, this is a Jeep Grand Cherokee stretched to 113" WB, with the body being that of the KB2 IH. I hope to minimize the flex in the frame so that the IRS, and IFS can work. The crossmembers will be that from the Jeep as well, and duplicated to how they are attached. Effectively, besides the longer frame, the brakelines, fuellines, wires, and driveshaft should be all that is longer. This is all a shot in the dark, and who knows if it'll even work correctly.
Sorry for putting this on a Ford site.... though the frame rails are the same dimension between the KB2 and the F1.
In a nutshell, this is a Jeep Grand Cherokee stretched to 113" WB, with the body being that of the KB2 IH. I hope to minimize the flex in the frame so that the IRS, and IFS can work. The crossmembers will be that from the Jeep as well, and duplicated to how they are attached. Effectively, besides the longer frame, the brakelines, fuellines, wires, and driveshaft should be all that is longer. This is all a shot in the dark, and who knows if it'll even work correctly.
Sorry for putting this on a Ford site.... though the frame rails are the same dimension between the KB2 and the F1.
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