IAC valve for V10
#1
06-25-2011, 05:30 PM
IAC valve for V10
Quite a few posts on this on the V10 forum. Mine Ex has been hesitating after starting (bad after a few days of no use) so I took off the old one and put on a new one. I'll clean up the old one and use it as a backup. Hopefully thes pic's help. Best to lay your body on old carpet on top of the engine, cause this value is right under the windshield, behind the air intake. Took about an hour with some swearing involved. DO NOT DROP tools, screws, gaskets, etc!
First few pics of where it's at:
First few pics of where it's at:
#4
06-25-2011, 05:38 PM
#5
06-25-2011, 05:41 PM
#6
06-25-2011, 06:31 PM
Post Fiend
#7
06-25-2011, 08:28 PM
Thanks LL. for what it's worth:
From eHow:
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
From eHow:
- An idle air control valve, also called an IAC valve, is found in every vehicle and is located inside of the throttle body. When a car idles at a red light or while parked, the idle air control valve regulates the amount of air that circulates in the engine, which keeps the engine at a steady RPM and prevents rough idling. When an air control valve goes bad due to either carbon buildup or getting stuck, there are a few obvious symptoms.
- A bad idle air control valve will prevent adequate air flow to the engine and will result in increasingly lower RPMs when idling. The number of RPMs, while idling, will vary a bit based on the individual vehicle but is generally considered low when below 800 RPM. The RPMs will increase to normal levels when the accelerator is pressed.
- As the air control valve becomes increasingly clogged, the engine RPMs, while idling, will continue to drop until the vehicle stalls. This problem can usually be identified by applying the gas. When the vehicle is about to stall, pressing the accelerator will cause the RPMs to increase and will keep the car running. If the pedal is released, the RPMs will quickly drop, and the vehicle will stall. Sometimes, depending on how badly the idle air control valve is clogged, the vehicle may run correctly when the accelerator is pressed, but then sputter or stall when decelerating.
- If the idle air control valve has gone bad and no longer regulates the flow of air into the engine, typically due to the IAC being stuck open, the vehicle will idle roughly. A rough idle is characterized by shaking, vibrating and shuddering while the car is on but not moving. A rough idle due to a bad intake air control valve will eventually result in stalling immediately after starting the vehicle.
- A bad idle air control valve can cause a car to stall immediately after ignition in warm weather, but the vehicle will start properly when it is cold. When the accelerator is pressed, however, the car will stall. Likewise, if the temperature outside is warm enough, the car may start even though the idle air control valve is bad but will require the driver to immediately press the acceleration pedal to keep it from stalling.
Trending Topics
#10
10-11-2016, 08:26 PM
issues after changing IAC
Hey guys, I could use a little help here. After some searching I figured my 2001 Ford F-450 6.8l V-10, IAC valve needed replaced. While doing this I thought it would be a good idea to remove the throttle body and clean it. Upon removal I noticed it used rubber gaskets (as did the IAC). I cleaned everything and sadly threw away the old gaskets. Went into town to pick up new ones and found that they were paper gaskets. Thought, well maybe Ford made this change. After I reassembled everything, the truck is screaming with air leaks around the bottom, front of the spacer to manifold seal. Possibly more places but there for sure.
My question is, do these paper gaskets work? And possibly I have put something on a little off. Or has anyone else had any issues with these paper gaskets?
Is there anywhere to get the rubber gaskets?
One last thing, not sure if this matters or not but the truck does have the lpg conversion kit on it.
Thank you!
My question is, do these paper gaskets work? And possibly I have put something on a little off. Or has anyone else had any issues with these paper gaskets?
Is there anywhere to get the rubber gaskets?
One last thing, not sure if this matters or not but the truck does have the lpg conversion kit on it.
Thank you!
#11
10-12-2016, 12:22 PM
#12
01-10-2017, 11:49 AM
#14
12-30-2022, 02:06 PM
Hey guys. So mine is doing this only at operating temp. At Idle the RPMs run up and down between 740 to 850, which I feel are a bit too low (please inform me if those are okay Idle PRMs). With intermittent sputtering. I put it in gear the RPMs drops down below 500 and if I press the gas pedal it dies quickly. Not a single code either.
We did put new O2 sensors in at the manifold. I have been hearing a high-pitched noise at lower speeds that seems to rectify at high speeds. I'm the only one who hears it though. Could there be a leak around them causing all this too?
Any Idea Fellas?
v10 Excrusion Mama.
We did put new O2 sensors in at the manifold. I have been hearing a high-pitched noise at lower speeds that seems to rectify at high speeds. I'm the only one who hears it though. Could there be a leak around them causing all this too?
Any Idea Fellas?
v10 Excrusion Mama.