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IAC valve for V10

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Old 06-25-2011, 05:30 PM
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IAC valve for V10

Quite a few posts on this on the V10 forum. Mine Ex has been hesitating after starting (bad after a few days of no use) so I took off the old one and put on a new one. I'll clean up the old one and use it as a backup. Hopefully thes pic's help. Best to lay your body on old carpet on top of the engine, cause this value is right under the windshield, behind the air intake. Took about an hour with some swearing involved. DO NOT DROP tools, screws, gaskets, etc!

First few pics of where it's at:
 
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:32 PM
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a few more photos
 
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:35 PM
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Picture of the hose that can be removed for easier access.
 
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:38 PM
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Dude! The only Motocraft part you used was the gasket? Man, you're in for it. Just kidding. You're fine. Thanks for the pics. Reps coming your way if I can.
 
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818 View Post
Dude! The only Motocraft part you used was the gasket? Man, you're in for it.

I know, I know

The delphi came with the wrong gasket!
 
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:31 PM
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Nice post!
 
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:28 PM
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Thanks LL. for what it's worth:

From eHow:


  • An idle air control valve, also called an IAC valve, is found in every vehicle and is located inside of the throttle body. When a car idles at a red light or while parked, the idle air control valve regulates the amount of air that circulates in the engine, which keeps the engine at a steady RPM and prevents rough idling. When an air control valve goes bad due to either carbon buildup or getting stuck, there are a few obvious symptoms.
Low RPMs
  • A bad idle air control valve will prevent adequate air flow to the engine and will result in increasingly lower RPMs when idling. The number of RPMs, while idling, will vary a bit based on the individual vehicle but is generally considered low when below 800 RPM. The RPMs will increase to normal levels when the accelerator is pressed.
Stalling
  • As the air control valve becomes increasingly clogged, the engine RPMs, while idling, will continue to drop until the vehicle stalls. This problem can usually be identified by applying the gas. When the vehicle is about to stall, pressing the accelerator will cause the RPMs to increase and will keep the car running. If the pedal is released, the RPMs will quickly drop, and the vehicle will stall. Sometimes, depending on how badly the idle air control valve is clogged, the vehicle may run correctly when the accelerator is pressed, but then sputter or stall when decelerating.
Rough Idle
  • If the idle air control valve has gone bad and no longer regulates the flow of air into the engine, typically due to the IAC being stuck open, the vehicle will idle roughly. A rough idle is characterized by shaking, vibrating and shuddering while the car is on but not moving. A rough idle due to a bad intake air control valve will eventually result in stalling immediately after starting the vehicle.
Weather Variations
  • A bad idle air control valve can cause a car to stall immediately after ignition in warm weather, but the vehicle will start properly when it is cold. When the accelerator is pressed, however, the car will stall. Likewise, if the temperature outside is warm enough, the car may start even though the idle air control valve is bad but will require the driver to immediately press the acceleration pedal to keep it from stalling.
Read more: Signs of a Bad Idle Air Control Valve | eHow.com Signs of a Bad Idle Air Control Valve | eHow.com
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Old 02-01-2015, 03:35 PM
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Wish you woulda told me about this thread before, Sean!

Added to the tech folder.

Stewart
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 04:55 PM
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I swear it was already there!
 
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:26 PM
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issues after changing IAC

Hey guys, I could use a little help here. After some searching I figured my 2001 Ford F-450 6.8l V-10, IAC valve needed replaced. While doing this I thought it would be a good idea to remove the throttle body and clean it. Upon removal I noticed it used rubber gaskets (as did the IAC). I cleaned everything and sadly threw away the old gaskets. Went into town to pick up new ones and found that they were paper gaskets. Thought, well maybe Ford made this change. After I reassembled everything, the truck is screaming with air leaks around the bottom, front of the spacer to manifold seal. Possibly more places but there for sure.

My question is, do these paper gaskets work? And possibly I have put something on a little off. Or has anyone else had any issues with these paper gaskets?


Is there anywhere to get the rubber gaskets?

One last thing, not sure if this matters or not but the truck does have the lpg conversion kit on it.

Thank you!
 
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:22 PM
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I had no issue with the new paper gasket on the IAC. With the TB, make sure the surfaces are clean and torqued to spec. Sorry, no help on the LPG aspect of your project.
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H View Post
Wish you woulda told me about this thread before, Sean!

Added to the tech folder.

Stewart
Well, I couldn't find it so I added it again...LOL.

Stewart
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:17 PM
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Thanks! great pictures!
 
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