When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a stock 390 big block.. with several modifications on the drawing board: carb, intake, and valvetrain. Not going over the top, just lookin to have a little fun. I was hoping ya'll might have a thing or two to say in regard to headers. I've recently been informed that the stock set up isn't even suitable for a stock engine so this will probably be the first investment.
Unfortunately I don't have access to the right machines for a custom job, so an easy installment is ideal, but not a deal breaker. Any details as to what you're running and/or general thoughts are appreciated.
I have hooker comp long tube headers right now. They were a bolt in fit, no mods necessary.
As to your question about the shorty manifolds, even the 406 shortys are a good bit behind the aftermarket long tube headers. The long tube 427 manifolds are pretty close to headers performance wise but they are $$$.
There are lot's of opinions on header brand and such. You pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to how long they'll last. The only thing everyone agrees on is that an FE needs them.
I should mention that there were 2 different port locations depending on what head casting you have (1966 and earlier, and 66 and later emissions design). This can cause a port mismatch and subsequent sealing problems with headers if they were not designed to fit your casting. This can usually be easily solved by grinding the bolt slots on the headers an extra 1/4"-5/16" to allow it to slide into position. If you don't know to check it though you could be cussing header gaskets as you struggle to get them to seal.
What head casting do you have? It'll be located between the middle two spark plugs.
Is the truck a 2wd or 4x4? If its a 2wd, I have been happy with both Hedman and FlowTechs. I had the Hedmans on for 14 years, and only replaced them about 5 or 6 years ago, since I was changing the steering box, and the extra room was a help, plus since they were looking so rusty, I figured that they must have been ready to fall apart. Once off, they still seemed pretty solid, but since I had already bought the FlowTechs, I put them on. Both brands fit well, but on the Flowtechs, the clutch fork in the bellhousing would lightly rub on the collector ring, which I fixed by adding a light spring to hold the fork up a touch. Oh, and by the way, the headers and dual exhaust made a very noticable gain in performance!
Here's what I posted in another thread about a 76 360FE.. the same basic recipe applies to a 390. Your parts sources and brands may ultimately vary but the provided setups give you an idea what it would take:
>>>>>>>>>>> "
If ya wanna work with what ya got, here's a grouped that you can work with and assumes you can do all your own labor (including welding the exhaust). All prices are quoted from Jeg's:
Part 1
Hedman headers (PN 89120) $186
U-fit street rod exhaust mandrel bent 2.5-inch tubing kit (PN 555-30671): $220
2.5-inch mufflers (Flowmaster PN 842542) $173
subtotal: $579
Part 2
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake (PN 7105) $350
600 cfm carburetor (Edelbrock PN 1405 or 1406) $300
3-inch open element air cleaner & filter: +/- $60
subtotal: $770
... add an Edelbrock cam & lifters (PN 7106) $193
Total: $1482
__________
Btw, the Ford's 600 cfm Autolite 4100 is an awesome carb. More simple than the Eddy 1405/1406... I picked one up at a swap meet for $40. Look for "1.12" stamped on the side of the front bowl cuz the ones stamped "1.08" only flow 480 cfm. "
Sleepy, the head casting numbers read D2TEAA. A quick search taught me that D=70's, 2=1972, Truck Engine, and AA=number of changes? Can I assume (without making and *** out of you and me, well.. me) that the date of production makes it a post emissions head? What type of ports do your heads have and how does your set up fit?
Rory428, fortunate enough that the PO already had Flowmasters.. and she's a 4X4. Thanks for the two cents.
HIO Silver.. thanks for the decent starting point. I actually was trying to run the ballpark numbers through my head earlier today lol.
Correct. The D2s are emission heads that went on FEs from 72-76. I had D2s and now have C8AE-H heads. These 2 heads are nearly identical, the D2s are just the emissions updated versions and came with hardened seats to run on unleaded fuel. My headers needed the slot ground out 1/4" and then a good gasket. Hooker headers for the longest time have matched the early heads ports. I heard talk that they were finally going to address the issue but don't know if they have or not. My headers are 6yrs old.
From what I've read Hooker, Headman, I think Dynomax also, will require this port matching. FPA has headers that match the later head ports. Other brands are unknown to me.
All good info, and food for thought.
Does anyone know if the FlowTech brand headers have any port issues with the later heads? I ask for 2 reasons, I have the later heads, and Summit has 2wd flowtech's for ~$140 (painted) or $315 (ceramic coated).
FlowTech is a holley company, as is Hooker IIRC.
I am considering a set.
I thought that all heads for a single engine had the same ports (in general speaking), so that all you needed to know was the type of engine you had and the year, and then you could header shop.
I never knew that you needed to know the # on your heads as well... or is this only for FE engines?
Just wondering, thought I'd hope in and ask so we don't have to repeat this thread.
I believe it's FE specific. These are some good pics of port difference. Thanks to Howie over on the FE board for the pics. You'll notice the difference between the D2,C8, late C6, and the higher ports of the CJ and Edel heads.
I have run both Hooker long tubes, and Dynomax long tubes...........I have no complaints with either one of them, they have both lasted quite a while, and were of good quality
It seems the price reflects the longevity. All coatings are not created equal. I've heard of experiences where the ceramic coating almost immediately starts to come off, and others that look good after 10yrs. Many people get uncoated headers and have them coated at a reputable place. The other option is nickel plated, which I've heard nothing bad about. My current uncoated Hookers are rusty and have been getting progressively worse for 2yrs, the next set I get will be nickel plated. JMO
Edit: also, if anyone does get a set of ceramic coated headers, DO NOT use them to break in an engine. It voids most factory warranties and will peel and chip off while you are trying to get it set right. If you run it on an engine stand with big fans on either side to try and keep them cool, you could get away with it, but I would heed the warranty.
I got my entire exhaust done for just over $300. Flowtech headers from summit for 169.95 that went on about as easy as it get's, thrush welded mufflers (I just call them flowmaster 40s because they are identical in every which way) and the pipes bent and everything put together after the headers for like $64. If you don't want to do the pipes yourself, these trucks aren't that expensive to have them made for from experience and what I've read.