If you'll poke your head under the dash of your truck, you'll see that all the wires you want to remove attach to the ecm, located under the dash just below where the radio is. The plug can be removed with a small socket, and the whole mess can be snaked through the firewall. Ford even made a rubber plug to put in the hole to make it look nice. I'll try to dig out my reciept for the one I bought from FoMoCo if you like.
After you get the wires out of the cab, you can remove them from their plugs under the hood and from the engine block (that's a ground that you posted a pic of, just like you thought) and get rid of the whole thing. Removing the wiring won't affect the running of the truck much, because you've already swapped to DS II. Once you install your new carb, it won't matter at all.
Please listen to AB and keep your EGR system; it'll allow you to run more timing and give you better mileage.
One more thing- plastic vacuum line IS available at AutoZone, if you care to have it.

 

If you don't mind I would be interested in that, definitely. I plan on keeping the EGR system in place as long as it's mostly intact and functional. I was very confused at first (and honestly I'm still not 100% sure) about what system was what and I thought that the EGR system and the feedback system were all the same thing. I realize now that it's a bit more modular than that so my goal is to keep the EGR system intact while removing all of the old feedback and TFI stuff.

 

Hey guys, I ordered that vacuum gauge. It should be here in by Tuesday =(... now I just need to find a hand held tachometer and I'll be set.

In the mean time, I decided to see if I could get to the bottom of that wiring clusterbomb in the engine compartment. I disconnected the big plug inside the cab from the computer and verified that I could still start the truck (more on that in a minute). The huge bundle runs all over the engine compartment and connects to pretty much every thing inside there. I went ahead and unplugged it all from the carburetor (it was plugged up in about 3-4 different areas) and I took some pictures here of the connections that I'm unsure of.

First on deck we have this beauty which runs to the electric choke. Fully 50% of this wire is bare copper. Awesome. One thought that I did have here was since this wire is all attached to the old harness, will I need to run a new wire for the electric choke?



Second on today's mystery guess that wire show, we have this gizmo. One of the wires that is spliced into the electric choke connection deal (you can see the two wires in the picture above) goes into this. The other two go back up into the bundle. It was not connected to anything at all, just laying there next to the battery.



Our third item is this wire here that starts off yellow, goes through some sort of a rubber.. something.. turns into a dark red wire and connects onto the starter solenoid here.


Our final mystery contestant is this guy right here. It connects into that cylindrical object there in the center of the picture.


What are these wires/connections? I'm assuming I can just unplug/remove all of them and I'll be fine. The one that concerns me though is the one to the elec choke. I'm thinking I'm going to have to run a new wire as there will be nothing to connect to when I pull out the harness.


Part Deux

I decided to fiddle a little with the distributor and see if I could get it idling smoother. I got the engine started and reached down and turned the distributor body counter clockwise a few degrees. I could hear the RPMs pick up and I decided to give it some gas and see if it still died. Guess what! It did not die when I gave it gas and then let off.. However, it made a very funny noise. When I gave it gas it sounded great, RPMs picked up and the engine sounded like a champ. However, when I let off the gas it made a very funny... almost whining noise as it was coming down in RPMs. This sounded unnatural and scared me a bit. I (very lightly) gave it a little more gas to see if I could reproduce and it made the same noise when coming down in RPMs again. Any ideas what that could be.

Also, the exhaust system under my truck is vibrating and is about to drive me CRAZY. It's not a constant vibration but it's regular. It comes and goes every few seconds and lasts for a few seconds at a time. Do you guys think it just needs to be tightened or could it be something else?

As usual, thanks a ton for all yall's help.

 

Do you have a junk yard nearby? I put stock tachs in both my trucks. You'll need the whole instrument cluster to do it, so you'll lose your odometer, but it's all plug and play. This is because the cluster for the tach has a different circuit board on the back and its riveted on. But, it's a direct swap. Put it in, fire it up, and the tach works. No other connections.

When the truck is running, use a voltmeter to locate the prong on the back of the alternator that supplies 7v and run a wire straight from that to your electric choke. You may be able to use the pre-existing wire you have there (the one with bare copper) so that it plugs easily into your new choke wire. Just wrap the wire in electrical tape or something.

That may be a component of the feedback carb system for the electric choke. If it comes out with the big cluster of wires, just remove it. It doesn't look like anything associated with the DSII setup.

The rubber block in the center of that wire is, I believe, a fusible link. Trace the wire and see where it starts and stops, but I believe it has to do with your starter. Unless you can identify otherwise, leave that wire intact.

Not sure on that one. What does it connect to? Is it possibly part of the A/C system? If it's part of the feedback setup, out it comes.


Can you identify where the whining was coming from? Maybe wait until the vacuum gauge arrives and you finish timing it with that before coming to any big conclusions (unless someone else has a straight up answer.)

That sounds like you have a loose heat shield on a muffler or cat. An exhaust shop should be able to weld it really easy for probably next to nothing.

 

a thought on the ratteling in your exhaust....when a cat goes out bad they can rattle also so maybe you have a plugged up cat...(catalytic converter)

 

That circut is protected by a fuseable link. 20 gauge. So when you replace the wire from the stator terminal on the altenator, to the choke connector, it will have to be replaced.
That is the EEC test connector. You plug in a computer tester into this and you can run the diagnostic codes from the computer. Since you got rid of the EEC computer, you don't need that and it should come out with the EEC harness.

This is part of some factory optional accessory that has been removed. If it's not plugged into anything, it can be removed from the starter solenoid.

That is part of the A/C system, if you are going to remove it anyway, then it should be fine to remove that too.

There are some connectors for optional accessories, that should remain on the vehicle if you decide to add them later. Otherwise if they no longer go to something and you can remove it without cutting, then feel free to do so.

You should time the engine with a timing light. between 6 and 14 degrees BTDC is normal for a 300-6 depending on calibration. 10 BTDC is the most comon. The stalling on you could be due to not having the anti-stall dashpot I spoke about earlier, or it was out of time that much.

Is the thermactor system still connected, (Air pump) lines to exaust manifold, catalytic converter etc, or is it in a state of removal? The whining could be the exaust backpressure going through a open line that is normally closed and connected to the air pump.

With the advice the others gave, the exaust on your truck is held on with rubber insulated exaust hangers. the rubber could have deteriorated and/or you have loose exaust hangers.

 

The FoMoCo # is E3DZ-14603-A. It'll make the hole look purdy.

The good thing about the EGR is that it's a standalone system and easy to incorporate into the new carb conversion, so it's easy to keep.

 

<dt>Parts International Farmersbranch Ford</dt> <dd>FARMERS BRANCH, TX 75234</dd>
972-241-8730
Parts International

Has 33 of them

 

Not sure what these cost new, but I have found them at the junk yard a lot, I have some spares. You can also just plug the hole in the one you have and spray paint it black until you find one at the JY.
Here is a picture on the replacement plug used on a non-EEC truck to plug the hole in the firewall.

<DD>


</DD>

 

I believe that rubber plug was used on all 84-86 trucks that were not equipped with the EEC/FFS systems. The hole would be there when the cab was built, but they had no way to know which type of fuel/ignition system was gonna be used until later, when the cab met up with the frame.......

 

If I don't have this on the radiator support is there some other plce I can get this info?
Thhanks in advance
David

 

If you don't have the sticker, you'll need to go to the dealer and ask them to look it up, but the vac diagram for the feedback system is different from the previous models. I have a couple photos from junkyards I can send you if you'd like. I can even send you a pic from the original valance panel off my truck, which ought to be pretty close to what you have, except for the dizzy and carb change.

 

That would be awesome!! My e-mails is: goidsgym2001@aol.com
Thank you VERY much!
David

 

Bring the truck to your Ford dealer and see if they can help you.

The dealer is going to need the Calibration Code of the engine in order to determine this, and there were several (high altitude or not, California or 49-state emissions, air conditioning or not, what engine & trans, etc. etc. etc.).

 

Here's a couple pics of the diagram for an 83. Since you are converting from the feedback carb and EEC dizzy, the vac diagram won't do you much good. Nevertheless, LMK if you want photos of it.

Untitled | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Untitled | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

I have others if you'd like them. I take a picture of every 300-6 sticker I find at junkyards.