Head stud install.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Head stud install.
Hello I am going to do the arp head stud install. I am trying to figure out exactly what I need before I start. I bought a 04 F350 6.0 4X4 with 63k on the clock. I live in Houston so I need to keep the emissions. This is what I have so far.
Head studs
head gaskets- oem
turbo drain line
turbo feed line
antifreeze- elc
coolant hoses- just in case they are soft
bulletproof egr
oil cooler rebuild kit
coolant filter kit
intake gakets
washers and orings for injectors incase I pull them.
Thanks for any information.
Head studs
head gaskets- oem
turbo drain line
turbo feed line
antifreeze- elc
coolant hoses- just in case they are soft
bulletproof egr
oil cooler rebuild kit
coolant filter kit
intake gakets
washers and orings for injectors incase I pull them.
Thanks for any information.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Definitely pull the injectors and definitely take the heads and have them checked for flatness and preferrably machined AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE to true them up. Looks like your list is pretty good.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Sounds like you are doing it right, as was said, do yourself a favor and that the heads checked or mirror finished. Don't go to a head shop that will put them on a belt, they cant tell how much the are removing.
Are you going to lift the cab? Or do it in the truck?
Are you going to lift the cab? Or do it in the truck?
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
There are a couple of head bolts that will have to come up with the heads on each side. I just rubber band them together so they stay in head out of the way. If you take the side cover off of the evaporator box if makes the job much easier on the right side. I think it only 6 screws and it gives you another inch or so to work on that side.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Then I will have to evacuate the ac system and replace the drier that way. Will have to find a place to evacuate it. I can recharge at home.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
No you dont have to discharge the a/c. you just remove the engine side of the evaporator box. It will come off and the evap coil will sty in the other half. It just makes it sooo much easier to get to the injector oil rail bolts and the head bolts.
I wish I'd have taken some pictures of the one I had off recently.
I wish I'd have taken some pictures of the one I had off recently.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
Likes: 35
From: N. Fort Worth, tx
that does work as well but I just like the extra room. being in a shop with the equipment it taks 15 more mins to save me an 1 hour of labor. time well spent in my case. also doing it this way you may have to set the head with a few studs in it.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 516
Likes: 8
From: Milwaukie, Oregon
Hello Ford tech here:
This is the parts you will need, i recommend going to the technician parts guy at the dealer, not the customer parts counter guy as they are mostly dumb.
2 Head Gaskets, there are two different kinds of head gaskets that differ by the dowel pin size, 18mm or 22mm. you will only know after you have them off. most of the time they are 18mm tho.
2 rocker cover gaskets
1 ARP Head Stud kit, instructions say torque, torque them to 245 instead, trust me.
3 Gold Coolants,
2 Oil Rail Plugs, these will be good to replace while you are there becuase the new ones you get will be updated to the latest design to protect against high pressure oil system pulses damaging the old style o rings set up.
2 stand pipes
you won't need valve cover gaskets unless they are damages because they are reuseable gasket design
1 intake gasket set
1 turbo install kit
1 black heater hose o ring to front cover
1 green oil breather o ring
1 oil filter
17 quarts 15w40, start it with 15 and add oil after starting to level,
2 exhaust manifold gaskets, as yours are most likely leaking
16 exhaust manifold bolts
4 exhaust flange bolts
4 exhaust flange nuts
1 fuel filter housing reseal kit
1 fuel filter (optional)
1 fuel pressure regulator (optional, but a very good choise if you do decide to replace it as it is updated and ups fuel pressure to prevent injector failures, it lengthens the pressure spring)
1 dega bottle cap if it has been driven like this for a prolonged period of time it can damage the pop off pressure point of the cap making you need a new one.
and finally we come to the part i hate to explain and wish i could just tell you to do it. replace your egr cooler and rebuild your oil cooler. id waste my time expaining it to you but in the short story the egr cooler, oil cooler, and head gaskets are a evil trifecta that tear each other apart. What happens is the oil cooler goes bad and cloggs restricting coolant flow to the egr cooler causing them to get hot and pop and the head gaskets are just a byproduct of the temperatures the oil and coolant reach. Not to mention that sticking turbos cause over boost condiotions most of the time and over charge the engine lifting the heads off the block and stretching the head bolts. Also you NEED to remove and take apart your turbo chager, inspect the surfaces for pitting and the unison ring sticking on the center housing, also look for a bean shape where the vgt peg rides in the unison ring as this indicates past turbo sticking events. and finally to finish it off take it to your dealer after the job is done and hit it with a reflash to get everything all up to date. you will have to float the studs into place with the heads at the same time. not going to lie, if you dont pull the engine its a b**** to do. but still possible.
you don't need to pull the injectors unless you are sending them out to be flow tested and if you are i know a guy to do it for about 200 bucks, its possible to get the heads machined but i have never had to, i have always used metal surface prep and a scotch brite hand pad and taken my time. try not to use a buff disc as this takes experience and patients as well.
some tools you will need that your probably won't think about out side of the normal socket set includes:
10mm or 12mm hex socket depending on the design of oil rail plugs your have as they have been updated before several times.
magnet, just in case you have butter fingers, and trust me, you dont want to have butter fingers with that intake off and the heads back on.
t30 star bit for the oil rail bolts preferably a shorty socket.
big a** cheater bar
nice torque wrench or torque multiplyer
i think a t40 or t45 for the oil filter housing bolts (4) cant remember.
long pry bar and a hammer to knock the exhaust clamps loose on the turbo
long box end ten mm wrench(ratcheting optional) for turbo to pedistal bolts at they sometimes are rusted in place.
penitrating oil
oil filter socket
and good news! it is possible to removed the heater box cover to create better access to the passenger head as stated above.
hope this fills in some of your blanks. please contact me if you need torque specifications, or if you have bolts left over when you are done as i probably know where they go
This is the parts you will need, i recommend going to the technician parts guy at the dealer, not the customer parts counter guy as they are mostly dumb.
2 Head Gaskets, there are two different kinds of head gaskets that differ by the dowel pin size, 18mm or 22mm. you will only know after you have them off. most of the time they are 18mm tho.
2 rocker cover gaskets
1 ARP Head Stud kit, instructions say torque, torque them to 245 instead, trust me.
3 Gold Coolants,
2 Oil Rail Plugs, these will be good to replace while you are there becuase the new ones you get will be updated to the latest design to protect against high pressure oil system pulses damaging the old style o rings set up.
2 stand pipes
you won't need valve cover gaskets unless they are damages because they are reuseable gasket design
1 intake gasket set
1 turbo install kit
1 black heater hose o ring to front cover
1 green oil breather o ring
1 oil filter
17 quarts 15w40, start it with 15 and add oil after starting to level,
2 exhaust manifold gaskets, as yours are most likely leaking
16 exhaust manifold bolts
4 exhaust flange bolts
4 exhaust flange nuts
1 fuel filter housing reseal kit
1 fuel filter (optional)
1 fuel pressure regulator (optional, but a very good choise if you do decide to replace it as it is updated and ups fuel pressure to prevent injector failures, it lengthens the pressure spring)
1 dega bottle cap if it has been driven like this for a prolonged period of time it can damage the pop off pressure point of the cap making you need a new one.
and finally we come to the part i hate to explain and wish i could just tell you to do it. replace your egr cooler and rebuild your oil cooler. id waste my time expaining it to you but in the short story the egr cooler, oil cooler, and head gaskets are a evil trifecta that tear each other apart. What happens is the oil cooler goes bad and cloggs restricting coolant flow to the egr cooler causing them to get hot and pop and the head gaskets are just a byproduct of the temperatures the oil and coolant reach. Not to mention that sticking turbos cause over boost condiotions most of the time and over charge the engine lifting the heads off the block and stretching the head bolts. Also you NEED to remove and take apart your turbo chager, inspect the surfaces for pitting and the unison ring sticking on the center housing, also look for a bean shape where the vgt peg rides in the unison ring as this indicates past turbo sticking events. and finally to finish it off take it to your dealer after the job is done and hit it with a reflash to get everything all up to date. you will have to float the studs into place with the heads at the same time. not going to lie, if you dont pull the engine its a b**** to do. but still possible.
you don't need to pull the injectors unless you are sending them out to be flow tested and if you are i know a guy to do it for about 200 bucks, its possible to get the heads machined but i have never had to, i have always used metal surface prep and a scotch brite hand pad and taken my time. try not to use a buff disc as this takes experience and patients as well.
some tools you will need that your probably won't think about out side of the normal socket set includes:
10mm or 12mm hex socket depending on the design of oil rail plugs your have as they have been updated before several times.
magnet, just in case you have butter fingers, and trust me, you dont want to have butter fingers with that intake off and the heads back on.
t30 star bit for the oil rail bolts preferably a shorty socket.
big a** cheater bar
nice torque wrench or torque multiplyer
i think a t40 or t45 for the oil filter housing bolts (4) cant remember.
long pry bar and a hammer to knock the exhaust clamps loose on the turbo
long box end ten mm wrench(ratcheting optional) for turbo to pedistal bolts at they sometimes are rusted in place.
penitrating oil
oil filter socket
and good news! it is possible to removed the heater box cover to create better access to the passenger head as stated above.
hope this fills in some of your blanks. please contact me if you need torque specifications, or if you have bolts left over when you are done as i probably know where they go
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
Hello Ford tech here:
This is the parts you will need, i recommend going to the technician parts guy at the dealer, not the customer parts counter guy as they are mostly dumb.
2 Head Gaskets, there are two different kinds of head gaskets that differ by the dowel pin size, 18mm or 22mm. you will only know after you have them off. most of the time they are 18mm tho.
2 rocker cover gaskets
1 ARP Head Stud kit, instructions say torque, torque them to 245 instead, trust me.
3 Gold Coolants,
2 Oil Rail Plugs, these will be good to replace while you are there becuase the new ones you get will be updated to the latest design to protect against high pressure oil system pulses damaging the old style o rings set up.
2 stand pipes
you won't need valve cover gaskets unless they are damages because they are reuseable gasket design
1 intake gasket set
1 turbo install kit
1 black heater hose o ring to front cover
1 green oil breather o ring
1 oil filter
17 quarts 15w40, start it with 15 and add oil after starting to level,
2 exhaust manifold gaskets, as yours are most likely leaking
16 exhaust manifold bolts
4 exhaust flange bolts
4 exhaust flange nuts
1 fuel filter housing reseal kit
1 fuel filter (optional)
1 fuel pressure regulator (optional, but a very good choise if you do decide to replace it as it is updated and ups fuel pressure to prevent injector failures, it lengthens the pressure spring)
1 dega bottle cap if it has been driven like this for a prolonged period of time it can damage the pop off pressure point of the cap making you need a new one.
and finally we come to the part i hate to explain and wish i could just tell you to do it. replace your egr cooler and rebuild your oil cooler. id waste my time expaining it to you but in the short story the egr cooler, oil cooler, and head gaskets are a evil trifecta that tear each other apart. What happens is the oil cooler goes bad and cloggs restricting coolant flow to the egr cooler causing them to get hot and pop and the head gaskets are just a byproduct of the temperatures the oil and coolant reach. Not to mention that sticking turbos cause over boost condiotions most of the time and over charge the engine lifting the heads off the block and stretching the head bolts. Also you NEED to remove and take apart your turbo chager, inspect the surfaces for pitting and the unison ring sticking on the center housing, also look for a bean shape where the vgt peg rides in the unison ring as this indicates past turbo sticking events. and finally to finish it off take it to your dealer after the job is done and hit it with a reflash to get everything all up to date. you will have to float the studs into place with the heads at the same time. not going to lie, if you dont pull the engine its a b**** to do. but still possible.
you don't need to pull the injectors unless you are sending them out to be flow tested and if you are i know a guy to do it for about 200 bucks, its possible to get the heads machined but i have never had to, i have always used metal surface prep and a scotch brite hand pad and taken my time. try not to use a buff disc as this takes experience and patients as well.
some tools you will need that your probably won't think about out side of the normal socket set includes:
10mm or 12mm hex socket depending on the design of oil rail plugs your have as they have been updated before several times.
magnet, just in case you have butter fingers, and trust me, you dont want to have butter fingers with that intake off and the heads back on.
t30 star bit for the oil rail bolts preferably a shorty socket.
big a** cheater bar
nice torque wrench or torque multiplyer
i think a t40 or t45 for the oil filter housing bolts (4) cant remember.
long pry bar and a hammer to knock the exhaust clamps loose on the turbo
long box end ten mm wrench(ratcheting optional) for turbo to pedistal bolts at they sometimes are rusted in place.
penitrating oil
oil filter socket
and good news! it is possible to removed the heater box cover to create better access to the passenger head as stated above.
hope this fills in some of your blanks. please contact me if you need torque specifications, or if you have bolts left over when you are done as i probably know where they go
This is the parts you will need, i recommend going to the technician parts guy at the dealer, not the customer parts counter guy as they are mostly dumb.
2 Head Gaskets, there are two different kinds of head gaskets that differ by the dowel pin size, 18mm or 22mm. you will only know after you have them off. most of the time they are 18mm tho.
2 rocker cover gaskets
1 ARP Head Stud kit, instructions say torque, torque them to 245 instead, trust me.
3 Gold Coolants,
2 Oil Rail Plugs, these will be good to replace while you are there becuase the new ones you get will be updated to the latest design to protect against high pressure oil system pulses damaging the old style o rings set up.
2 stand pipes
you won't need valve cover gaskets unless they are damages because they are reuseable gasket design
1 intake gasket set
1 turbo install kit
1 black heater hose o ring to front cover
1 green oil breather o ring
1 oil filter
17 quarts 15w40, start it with 15 and add oil after starting to level,
2 exhaust manifold gaskets, as yours are most likely leaking
16 exhaust manifold bolts
4 exhaust flange bolts
4 exhaust flange nuts
1 fuel filter housing reseal kit
1 fuel filter (optional)
1 fuel pressure regulator (optional, but a very good choise if you do decide to replace it as it is updated and ups fuel pressure to prevent injector failures, it lengthens the pressure spring)
1 dega bottle cap if it has been driven like this for a prolonged period of time it can damage the pop off pressure point of the cap making you need a new one.
and finally we come to the part i hate to explain and wish i could just tell you to do it. replace your egr cooler and rebuild your oil cooler. id waste my time expaining it to you but in the short story the egr cooler, oil cooler, and head gaskets are a evil trifecta that tear each other apart. What happens is the oil cooler goes bad and cloggs restricting coolant flow to the egr cooler causing them to get hot and pop and the head gaskets are just a byproduct of the temperatures the oil and coolant reach. Not to mention that sticking turbos cause over boost condiotions most of the time and over charge the engine lifting the heads off the block and stretching the head bolts. Also you NEED to remove and take apart your turbo chager, inspect the surfaces for pitting and the unison ring sticking on the center housing, also look for a bean shape where the vgt peg rides in the unison ring as this indicates past turbo sticking events. and finally to finish it off take it to your dealer after the job is done and hit it with a reflash to get everything all up to date. you will have to float the studs into place with the heads at the same time. not going to lie, if you dont pull the engine its a b**** to do. but still possible.
you don't need to pull the injectors unless you are sending them out to be flow tested and if you are i know a guy to do it for about 200 bucks, its possible to get the heads machined but i have never had to, i have always used metal surface prep and a scotch brite hand pad and taken my time. try not to use a buff disc as this takes experience and patients as well.
some tools you will need that your probably won't think about out side of the normal socket set includes:
10mm or 12mm hex socket depending on the design of oil rail plugs your have as they have been updated before several times.
magnet, just in case you have butter fingers, and trust me, you dont want to have butter fingers with that intake off and the heads back on.
t30 star bit for the oil rail bolts preferably a shorty socket.
big a** cheater bar
nice torque wrench or torque multiplyer
i think a t40 or t45 for the oil filter housing bolts (4) cant remember.
long pry bar and a hammer to knock the exhaust clamps loose on the turbo
long box end ten mm wrench(ratcheting optional) for turbo to pedistal bolts at they sometimes are rusted in place.
penitrating oil
oil filter socket
and good news! it is possible to removed the heater box cover to create better access to the passenger head as stated above.
hope this fills in some of your blanks. please contact me if you need torque specifications, or if you have bolts left over when you are done as i probably know where they go
Elder User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 514
Likes: 3
From: Long Island
Here's the link to the thread when I did mine. Took quite a few pics including the evaporator case split.Also a couple helpful hints. Hope it helps and good luck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-stud-job.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-stud-job.html