I have a 2006 Explorer and lately I've been having this probem. After going about 2 miles, the engine will rev, the temp light comes on, the heat hand goes up for about 6 seconds, then all goes away. Occassionally the anti-skid (?) light also comes on. I've taken it to mechanic and they have cannot find the problem. They do tell me that it is NOT overheating. Any answers?

 

I, too, have been having this problem with my '97 F150 4.6 V8. I was also experiencing a transmission fluid leak from the top right line from the radiator. I replaced the radiator. The truck will do the same thing everyone here is posting but, my fuel economy seems to have dropped as well. The CEL stays on though, only getting the p1299 code on my CarMD. It doesn't peg hot every time, as a matter of fact, recently I have started up...no problem. Turn the heat on and the temp gauge gradually drops to cold...turn the heat off and the temp comes back up to normal operating temp. I have a new sensor ready to go in, but need to see where to put it. From what I've read, looks like I need to get in there and remove the intake manifold. Yea for me...Im not a mechanic, I only play one in my head. I'm more of a computer guy.

 

I recently bought a 1997 Ford Expedition 4.6 Cyl. with some overheating problems. I found out the prior owner used a radiator sealer to seal a leak in the front heather coil. So, I replaced the radiator, front and back heather coil. I flushed the engine (front the back), used a "flushing" (I properly followed the instructions) and water came out clean and constant. When I performed the flush I removed the "thermostat" in order to have a continues flow of water.

****I cannot use the heater****

The symptoms are:
1. takes too long to reach the normal temperature in order for the heather works properly
2. Once reached the normal temperature the gauge goes all the way up (red line) for 10-15 seconds and then drops to normal temperature. Right after that the temperature starts dropping below normal. A couple of minutes pass and reach again the normal temperature. Lately the truck repeats the same process 2 and 3 times before reach the normal temperature to remain.
3. Ever sense I can heard a rush of water flowing throughout the front dash.
4. Today I replaced the "coolant temperature sensor"
5. I also noticed the reservoir is not holding the water (have a new cap) leaks from the top.

 

Guage

Looking for info on replacing CHT sensor for a false overheat on 98 f150 4.6 v8. I've flushed and filled. Tried 2 thermostats and still have intermittent overheats within a few miles of startup.

Thanks

 

I bought a 2000 E150 this spring from a co worker who had it since October. It had a radiator, water pump, & thermostat replaced by his previous owner. During winter he only had high temp issues a couple times. I bought it after a wheel seal failed. Soon as it got warm, it took 15 to 20 mins driving to see temp gauge do the slow rise to hot. Only did the power down the first time. Since then if I run heater, I can keep the temp down longer. Cool nites I drive home with no problem. I've degreased & pressure sprayed condensor & radiator twice. Changed fan clutch & pressure cap and thermostat again. I can burp it, leave heater fan run after shut off, & in minutes guage is normal again. Hot days worse than cool nites. Got to think the problem existed when radiator, pump, & thermo was changed last year then they sold it out of frustration. Co worker lucked out & bought during cool months & didn't drive long distances. Runs rougher like slight miss when it starts going up. I'm baffled like everyone else.

 

I have a '98 F150/4.6L, 209,000 miles. Same issues as posted above. Replaced radiator (2nd time replaced), water pump (1st time replaced), thermostat (2nd time replaced), coolant thermal sensor (just one, because I didn't notice the 2nd one) and serpentine belt today. Still same issues after all the replacements, runs fine after it's hot. I've seen a couple other forums and most are saying head gasket leak.

 

Ok went to AZone to check the codes first before I purchase anything else from Ford.

Here are the codes:
P1285
P1299

I changed out the CHT; ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor; upstream 02 sensors; main belt; plugs (MC)/wires; oil pressure switch; cleaned EGR ports; installed cluster.

I just got home from AZone and I had him clear the codes. I pulled into the driveway and the truck went into limp mode.

AZone 4 miles away one way.

Gauges pegged-THEN I shut the truck off and waited about 15 sec and cranked it up and it ran fine/gauges not pegged.

I THINK the PC might need to be re-flashed ???

Question, Is th CHT open or closed at start up before the engine gets hot. I'm thinking if it is open to unplug it, or if closed unplug it and jump the wires across.

Done everything I can think of

Thanks,
Jim

 

OK, so far so good-no codes yet. Will drive it around more and see.

 

Did you ever figure out the issue? I'm having the same problem.

 

So did you fix it? What was the fix if so? Have a 1998 F150 with 4.6 v8, same as everyone else here.

Thanks!

 

I have the same problem (false overheat) code P1285 on my 04 F150. I had the CHT fault indications (temp gauge pegged, check gauges error came on in the message cluster on the dash) I turned the truck off and back on, everything back to normal. I changed the CHT out however I am having the same issues? What should I check next? Also, I put in a new Jasper Motor about 6 months ago so its def not a blown head gasket or thermostat.

 

I have a 1997 Ford F150, Tritan 4.6 engine with 200,00+ miles. Normally runs just fine. However Sunday and today I have had a problem with it.

First off Sunday night the temps in Northern Michigan were well below zero. We drove 15 miles to hockey then on our return trip the temp gauge pegged at hot, and the temp light came on. The truck would not go over 30 mph. I shut the truck off the gauge went right back to normal and all warning lights went out except check engine light (still on).

There is no change in the heat quality in the cab when this happens. This morning I went to go to eye appointment and it did the same thing. The temp gauge pegged, temp light came on, and would not let me go over 30 mph. I got it back home. Shut it off, turned it on within 30 seconds and it ran fine. Drove it down the road and seemed fine. Then The temp gauge pegged again and light came back on, however, I drove it just fine.

So question #1, Does the 1997 F150 have a "limp mode"? I was told by a mechanic that they do not have limp mode.

#2 Any ides what could be causing this.

The engine has no missing like there would be any water in the gas or any water getting in the cylinders, it runs just as smooth as can be.
Exhaust is good no black or grey color you would get with oil or water. Normally runs just fine except since we started hitting below zero temps.

I did drain antifreeze today and added 1 gallon of straight no mix to the system.

Update to this. Call the local dealership and explained everything to them. They said without diagnosis they would have to guess that the PCM was bad. What would your thoughts be on this diagnosis. I love my fords but this one is driving me crazy..........

 

Here is what I have come up with so far. Since you have pretty high mileage on your truck, check the radiator hose to make sure it is not holding pressure and you can squeeze it pretty easily, if not you make have a cracked head gasket. I had a new engine installed in my truck and this is when "false over heat" started. I replaced the CHT (center head temperature sensor), got another false reading a couple weeks later, replaced the radiator cap, got another false reading a couple weeks later, went to the ford dealership and got a new thermostat (as for my truck, the original thermostat has been modified 4 different times since the truck came off the line) I'm on week two no and no false reading. Hopefully this works, however if this doesn't work I heard/read that the next move is to replace the crossover tube (tube from the thermostat to the motor). If I find a fix, i will post it!

 

Finally broke down and took my truck to the dealership after I could not figure out what was wrong with it. It kept acting up and then loosing heat all together. After waiting for two hours they came back and said the test shows bad radiator. The radiator is plugged up. It was flowing water but not even close to 30% of what it should have. There were no codes for bad plugs, all cylinder pressures were good. So We are going to change the radiator out at a cost of $450.00 and hopefully this is the real problem. After the radiator is changed I will have a second diagnostic done to make sure there are no under lining problems that were hidden previously.

Thanks again for the advise and I will kepp you all posted.

 

Having very similar issues:

Air sound in heater core during start up and accel

NOT overheating at all, takes longer than normal to heat up

New Motorcraft T-stat

Now getting intermittent P1299 code (coolant temp pegs, oil temp light on)

One of my suspects is low flow due to buildup. The water pump was just replaced. Just discovered the "New Dorman" recovery/degas tank I bought has a leak. Also for process of elimination the radiator is under warranty so I will yank that as well. My theory at this point is low flow due to rust/debris buildup and pockets of air stuck in manifold/heater core. At this point I am doubting a bad sensor as both coolant sensors were just recently replaced, and several other folks had replaced the CHT sensor to no avail. Any of you others with these issues are encouraged to post your finding on you trucks so we can squash this problem. I will have to wait a bit to do all this when I get time. It is annoying but able to be driven. I will report back ASAP...