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I'm getting ready to change my oil. I have never added any additives to it. I want to add something to the oil on my diesel motor to help keep the injectors clean, My f250 has 170k on it. should i go All synthetic ??
I added Seafoam to my oil/gas and got mixed results.
I had new oil in my v-twin bike and with 20,000 miles on the bike I decided to add seafoam to the oil to see how well it cleans. I rode the bike 100 miles and dumped the oil. The oil was freaking black. I could not believe how much schstuff it removed from my bike motor.
My Ford Ranger has 160,000 miles on the clock and I poured seafoam in the oil and drove the truck for 800 miles or so and then dumped the oil. The oil was still very new looking with a gold color. I guess the clearances in newer trucks and cars is different than on bikes cause I have no idea why my bike was so much dirtier than my truck other than more junk getting by the piston rings on my bike...
He is talking about a diesel. I dont think a V-twin bike relates too well. Yes, air cooled engines rather "crude" compared to modern truck engines. They need big clearanes so they dont sieze when hot, so lots of blowby. Carbs tend to run too rich most of the time in order to run smoothly and the result is carbon.
Question to the OP, how is the motor oil going to keep the injectors clean?
Dont use any additives, just the proper API CJ-4 oil. Those oils contain so much detergent and dispersant additive, more than gasoline engine oil, that nothing else is needed. Do not use a synthetic unless it it rated for diesel engines. Rotella T6 5W-40 is a good choice and available most everywhere.
I read that the newer diesels, Power strokes etc used engine oil to activate the injectors so engine oil choice was important for the diesels. Also the oil must be diesel rated to prevent foaming which the injectors can contribute to.
Just what I read on our site.
Jim Henderson
Oh, and a good quality engine oil has plenty of detergents to keep things clean, just change the oil regularly.
Dont use any additives, just the proper API CJ-4 oil. Those oils contain so much detergent and dispersant additive, more than gasoline engine oil, that nothing else is needed. Do not use a synthetic unless it it rated for diesel engines. Rotella T6 5W-40 is a good choice and available most everywhere.
Agreed!
Also a good oil filter is going to help you, I would recommend the MC FL-1995. 18 microns abs!
Well.. it's been way longer than recommended since my last oil change.
Got a MC fl 1995 Filter and 4 gallons ( 14 quarts ) of diesel oil.
I Drained the oil and talk about black... And Damn.. almost three quarts of oil just in the filter... Wow that's almost all the oil that my Hyundai holds..
This is the first time i changed the oil on my truck. I have had ford do it every time and only when they sent out spacial flyers for around $89.
Now they want $129 pls tx and filter.
So i guess about $90 including a catch tub is not that bad..
I know i need to stop being a procrastinator about changing the oil on my cars.
Yes the first oil change is a bit of a shock, i went from my old Ranger. If your carefull where you buy your oil and filter you can keep the cost down below that.
Yes the first oil change is a bit of a shock, i went from my old Ranger. If your carefull where you buy your oil and filter you can keep the cost down below that.
Wally world is your friend with oil changes...15 qts of motorcraft and a filter will run ya 55 bucks or so...can't beat that with these engines!
Personally, I'm running Amsoil 15-40 CJ-4 for 10,000 mile intervals, with blackstone labs to back me up. (And NAPA/WIX fiilter.) Costs about the equivalent of 2-3 oil dino oil changes, but the same # of miles, and I KNOW the oil works better.
There is only 1 oil additive that I would add, (and have) anbd that is Rev-X. Proven specifically in the 6.0 market, and Bill at PHP proved it works with his 2wd 6.0 he picked up. Great stuff.
Personally, I'm running Amsoil 15-40 CJ-4 for 10,000 mile intervals, with blackstone labs to back me up. (And NAPA/WIX fiilter.) Costs about the equivalent of 2-3 oil dino oil changes, but the same # of miles, and I KNOW the oil works better.
IMHO if you are going to run Amsoil, which is an awesome oil by the by, I would run a better than NAPA....the wix 51734 is 21 nominal (50%) while the MC FL-1995 is 18 absolute (98.6%).
IMHO if you are going to run Amsoil, which is an awesome oil by the by, I would run a better than NAPA....the wix 51734 is 21 nominal (50%) while the MC FL-1995 is 18 absolute (98.6%).
Our of curiosity, what report are you refrencing?
All the studies/reports I have seen the Wix and MC were neck in neck.
I'm planning on getting a duel filter bypass at some point, then I'm going to be going 20-25k miles. (Again, with positive blackstone reports.) Hopefully before this winter, but in the next year definately!
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