Adding a brake controller
#1
06-19-2011, 01:05 PM
Adding a brake controller
I want to add a brake controller to my 96 f150. This truck does not have factory tow so there is no wires under the dash for it. The wiring on the box calls for the red wire to go to the "cold" side of the brake switch. My brake pedal has a switch with only one wire. Is this i the one I hook to?
#2
06-19-2011, 01:27 PM
Postmaster
The brake light switch will HAVE to have at least 2 wires, one hot all the time, and one hot when brakes are applied.. This last one is the one you want.... If you are seeing a switch with only one wire I "think" it may be for the speed control...
Your brake light switch should look like this,
It is mounted on the brake pedal arm where the push rod for the master cylinder connects.
Your brake light switch should look like this,
It is mounted on the brake pedal arm where the push rod for the master cylinder connects.
#3
06-20-2011, 08:07 AM
I want to add a brake controller to my 96 f150. This truck does not have factory tow so there is no wires under the dash for it. The wiring on the box calls for the red wire to go to the "cold" side of the brake switch. My brake pedal has a switch with only one wire. Is this i the one I hook to?
The plug is located under the ash tray, image below.
You will need to buy a plug for it and wire it to the controller.
You will also need to run a Blue wire from the safety wall to the rear of the truck.
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#7
06-24-2011, 09:29 PM
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#8
06-25-2011, 07:06 AM
I do not remember if the 10mm bolt socket size has to come out to get the cover off but I always take it out first and then pull the plug off. It is much easier to work with that way.
Make sure you put Dielectric grease on it when you plug it back in. You might also want to remove the NEG battery cable at the battery first.
Make sure you put Dielectric grease on it when you plug it back in. You might also want to remove the NEG battery cable at the battery first.
#9
06-25-2011, 08:14 AM
#10
06-25-2011, 10:04 AM
I did not say there was a blue wire in it. The blue wire is missing in the plug on the engine side. But it is there on the cab side.
You have to add a pin in the plug and a wire from the plug to the rear end.
Some just cut the blue wire on the cab side, splice it to a wire and run that wire to the rear end. It is pin #2 in the above photos and diagrams.
You have to add a pin in the plug and a wire from the plug to the rear end.
Some just cut the blue wire on the cab side, splice it to a wire and run that wire to the rear end. It is pin #2 in the above photos and diagrams.
#11
06-25-2011, 10:32 AM
Yea, I know you did not say there was a blue wire in it. But luckily there was on mine. After I found the correct plug I could see that it was markesd #2 and had the wire coming out heading to the rear of the truck. The brake controller wire runs in the loom almost to the rear fuel tank at least it did on this truck. I had seen elsewhere on the net that trucks without the tow package did not have this on the engine side of the firewall but this one did. It works and I am finished. Thanks all for the help.
#14
07-06-2011, 07:14 AM
Snap the red part out and then release the pins.
Then compare one of the other pins to the pins at this link:
RJM Injection Tech — Multi-pin Connectors
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Then compare one of the other pins to the pins at this link:
RJM Injection Tech — Multi-pin Connectors
/
#15
12-13-2013, 10:18 PM
Post Fiend
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i just found this out today on my truck too.an f-super duty (f-450) without the tow package! that's like building a big rig without a trailer hookup! i couldn't believe it.
she's also missing the battery charge (12V with key on/run) orange wire.
i'll have to look better,but i wont be surprised if she's also missing the devoted trailer backup light wire and devoted trailer running lights.whatever appears to be missing,i'm running wires for,to simulate the full tow package.this way if you get a short in your trailer,you won't lose your trucks lights too.
here's the two i found missing thus far;
BLUE: trailer Brake.
ORANGE: trailer 12V+ with key on/run - aka battery charge (for like dump trailers and such.)
(run 10 gauge minimum for both of these out to the rear tow plug.you can skip the orange if you've got no use for it.)
i'll update the pic with pins once i trace the rest out and find anymore missing in action.
besides the wires not run,it appears as if everything else is done for you though.ford just kinda skipped the easy part which is odd.must of been what was cheapest for non tow package option fulfillment on the assembly line i guess.
i too thought about pinning them in,but thought...why? it's not as if it matters.
i'll just cut 'em and butt connect 'em and run 'em through grommets and done.
she's also missing the battery charge (12V with key on/run) orange wire.
i'll have to look better,but i wont be surprised if she's also missing the devoted trailer backup light wire and devoted trailer running lights.whatever appears to be missing,i'm running wires for,to simulate the full tow package.this way if you get a short in your trailer,you won't lose your trucks lights too.
here's the two i found missing thus far;
BLUE: trailer Brake.
ORANGE: trailer 12V+ with key on/run - aka battery charge (for like dump trailers and such.)
(run 10 gauge minimum for both of these out to the rear tow plug.you can skip the orange if you've got no use for it.)
i'll update the pic with pins once i trace the rest out and find anymore missing in action.
besides the wires not run,it appears as if everything else is done for you though.ford just kinda skipped the easy part which is odd.must of been what was cheapest for non tow package option fulfillment on the assembly line i guess.
i too thought about pinning them in,but thought...why? it's not as if it matters.
i'll just cut 'em and butt connect 'em and run 'em through grommets and done.