Still chasing electrical gremlins, need help
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Kannapolis NC
Still chasing electrical gremlins, need help
After getting my 351 to run I discovered that the alternator was not charging. I remove it and took it to the local auto zone where they checked it and it passed, reinstalled it and it still will not charge BUT that is not the current problem. So after putting the alt back I did start it to see if it was charging but no luck. All of this time the engine has fired right up, starting on the 1st turn of the engine but after being away for a couple weeks I tried again to start it up to work on the alt problem, but now it won't start, replaced the distributor and the coil and the plugs and it still won't start. The spark appears to be weak is the only problem I can see. It has fuel and the timing has been set. BTW it has an ignition module (new or at least was when I started this) The only other thing I can think of to add is that it had a resistor wired into the coil wiring which has been removed after being told it was not needed. Any ideas on where to go next, thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 128
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 652
From: Brentwood, TN
How did you determine that the alternator was not charging?
The resistor that you removed was more than likely the ballast resistor which is required. Some Ford models used a fusible link instead of the ballast resistor but what ever the case you still need to limit the current into the coil when in normal operating mode (that is, run mode vs start mode). If the circuit was left open after the resistor was removed then that is your problem.
I am really not a fan of replacing parts to correct a problem...time spent troubleshooting and isolating a failed component is much better spent than swapping out parts. Each part that is changed has the chance of introducing a new failure in the system. That said, when the key is turned on you should power on the + side of the coil...that is a good place to start. Next take a look at the points (assuming it has them).
The resistor that you removed was more than likely the ballast resistor which is required. Some Ford models used a fusible link instead of the ballast resistor but what ever the case you still need to limit the current into the coil when in normal operating mode (that is, run mode vs start mode). If the circuit was left open after the resistor was removed then that is your problem.
I am really not a fan of replacing parts to correct a problem...time spent troubleshooting and isolating a failed component is much better spent than swapping out parts. Each part that is changed has the chance of introducing a new failure in the system. That said, when the key is turned on you should power on the + side of the coil...that is a good place to start. Next take a look at the points (assuming it has them).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
Likes: 1,053
From: NM
Very few electronic ignitions use a ballast. If it is a Duraspark or similar, using a resistor may have burned out the module. Details? But I suspect Old F-1 is right, you may have knocked something loose or hooked up wires wrong. Also, if your battery has not been getting charge from the alt., if it's weak some electronic ignitions won't fire.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,344
Likes: 11
From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Not to sound like a jerk or anything but you did say you had your alt checked at "twilight zone" so have you been buying your electrical parts there too? If so thats the first place I'd start is replacing all the parts I got from the zone.
As I said, not tryin to be a jerk, just speakin from experience. the zone electrical parts are junk and kind of remind me of the old acrostic for LUCAS. Leave U Cold and Stranded. I've had too many family and friends that have brought me autozone parts and then within a very short time they were back with the same problem they had to start with. In hot roding its even worse since youre changing alot of stuff at once and sometimes dont know if its a part failure or something you did.
As I said, not tryin to be a jerk, just speakin from experience. the zone electrical parts are junk and kind of remind me of the old acrostic for LUCAS. Leave U Cold and Stranded. I've had too many family and friends that have brought me autozone parts and then within a very short time they were back with the same problem they had to start with. In hot roding its even worse since youre changing alot of stuff at once and sometimes dont know if its a part failure or something you did.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 128
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
................. AKA ………“The prince of darkness”.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,344
Likes: 11
From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Yep. They said the only reason they didnt bomb England during WWII was they used LUCAS electrics and none of the lights were on.
All of the old English bikes Triumphs, BSA's,Nortons, Vincents and such used Lucas electrics. They were a real mess to work on. Of course everyone gives them a hard time but they did invent the intermittent wipers, along with the intermittent headlights, and intermittent horn, and intermittent heater, and intermittent radio etc. 
If you've never worked on one of these "gems" with Lucas, you dont know what you're missing
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Kannapolis NC
I am beginning to suspect the problem is the resistor which was removed. Would that cause the coil to fail or produce a weak spark after just running the engine 3- 4 times for maybe one minute each? If it would then the problem may be the coil. What do you think?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
Likes: 55
From: Moro Bay, AR
All of the Duraspark ignitions used a resistor wire in the harness, usually when putting one into a non-Duraspark vehicle you would use a resistor to replace this. You need to put the resistor back in.
Here's a schematic that should help. http://www.billwrigley.com/vintage/308.jpg
Here's a schematic that should help. http://www.billwrigley.com/vintage/308.jpg
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
leardvr
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
5
Jun 7, 2009 02:04 AM
mmustafa
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Feb 27, 2008 08:30 AM
Slade901
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
33
Mar 11, 2004 11:02 PM