Still chasing electrical gremlins, need help
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From: Kannapolis NC
Still chasing electrical gremlins, need help
After getting my 351 to run I discovered that the alternator was not charging. I remove it and took it to the local auto zone where they checked it and it passed, reinstalled it and it still will not charge BUT that is not the current problem. So after putting the alt back I did start it to see if it was charging but no luck. All of this time the engine has fired right up, starting on the 1st turn of the engine but after being away for a couple weeks I tried again to start it up to work on the alt problem, but now it won't start, replaced the distributor and the coil and the plugs and it still won't start. The spark appears to be weak is the only problem I can see. It has fuel and the timing has been set. BTW it has an ignition module (new or at least was when I started this) The only other thing I can think of to add is that it had a resistor wired into the coil wiring which has been removed after being told it was not needed. Any ideas on where to go next, thanks
Cargo Master
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From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
How did you determine that the alternator was not charging?
The resistor that you removed was more than likely the ballast resistor which is required. Some Ford models used a fusible link instead of the ballast resistor but what ever the case you still need to limit the current into the coil when in normal operating mode (that is, run mode vs start mode). If the circuit was left open after the resistor was removed then that is your problem.
I am really not a fan of replacing parts to correct a problem...time spent troubleshooting and isolating a failed component is much better spent than swapping out parts. Each part that is changed has the chance of introducing a new failure in the system. That said, when the key is turned on you should power on the + side of the coil...that is a good place to start. Next take a look at the points (assuming it has them).
The resistor that you removed was more than likely the ballast resistor which is required. Some Ford models used a fusible link instead of the ballast resistor but what ever the case you still need to limit the current into the coil when in normal operating mode (that is, run mode vs start mode). If the circuit was left open after the resistor was removed then that is your problem.
I am really not a fan of replacing parts to correct a problem...time spent troubleshooting and isolating a failed component is much better spent than swapping out parts. Each part that is changed has the chance of introducing a new failure in the system. That said, when the key is turned on you should power on the + side of the coil...that is a good place to start. Next take a look at the points (assuming it has them).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Very few electronic ignitions use a ballast. If it is a Duraspark or similar, using a resistor may have burned out the module. Details? But I suspect Old F-1 is right, you may have knocked something loose or hooked up wires wrong. Also, if your battery has not been getting charge from the alt., if it's weak some electronic ignitions won't fire.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Not to sound like a jerk or anything but you did say you had your alt checked at "twilight zone" so have you been buying your electrical parts there too? If so thats the first place I'd start is replacing all the parts I got from the zone.
As I said, not tryin to be a jerk, just speakin from experience. the zone electrical parts are junk and kind of remind me of the old acrostic for LUCAS. Leave U Cold and Stranded. I've had too many family and friends that have brought me autozone parts and then within a very short time they were back with the same problem they had to start with. In hot roding its even worse since youre changing alot of stuff at once and sometimes dont know if its a part failure or something you did.
As I said, not tryin to be a jerk, just speakin from experience. the zone electrical parts are junk and kind of remind me of the old acrostic for LUCAS. Leave U Cold and Stranded. I've had too many family and friends that have brought me autozone parts and then within a very short time they were back with the same problem they had to start with. In hot roding its even worse since youre changing alot of stuff at once and sometimes dont know if its a part failure or something you did.
Cargo Master
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From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
................. AKA ………“The prince of darkness”.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY
Yep. They said the only reason they didnt bomb England during WWII was they used LUCAS electrics and none of the lights were on.
All of the old English bikes Triumphs, BSA's,Nortons, Vincents and such used Lucas electrics. They were a real mess to work on. Of course everyone gives them a hard time but they did invent the intermittent wipers, along with the intermittent headlights, and intermittent horn, and intermittent heater, and intermittent radio etc. 
If you've never worked on one of these "gems" with Lucas, you dont know what you're missing
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Senior User
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From: Kannapolis NC
I am beginning to suspect the problem is the resistor which was removed. Would that cause the coil to fail or produce a weak spark after just running the engine 3- 4 times for maybe one minute each? If it would then the problem may be the coil. What do you think?
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From: Moro Bay, AR
All of the Duraspark ignitions used a resistor wire in the harness, usually when putting one into a non-Duraspark vehicle you would use a resistor to replace this. You need to put the resistor back in.
Here's a schematic that should help. http://www.billwrigley.com/vintage/308.jpg
Here's a schematic that should help. http://www.billwrigley.com/vintage/308.jpg
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