When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
How much of the sealant will I need? I found the Permatex "The Right Stuff" in a 3oz and a 4oz.
ALSO - What about the Permatex Hi-Temp Red RTV gasket? It withstands up to 650F, higher than the other stuff.
How much of the sealant will I need? I found the Permatex "The Right Stuff" in a 3oz and a 4oz.
ALSO - What about the Permatex Hi-Temp Red RTV gasket? It withstands up to 650F, higher than the other stuff.
I bought a tube about the size of an iphone (but a skinnier) and ended up using half of it and threw the rest out (i accidentally punctured the tube so it had to go).
Okay, I have my Valvoline SYN Power gear oil 75W-90 for the front, 75W-140 LS for the rear, and Permatex Gear Oil RTV Sealant ordered at O'Reilly and going to pick up in the morning along with the other various items I need for the job.
What cleaning solvent is recommended? I have some Brakleen now. Will that work? Also, do I need to sand off the surface rust on the differential cover before I spray Rustoleum on it?
What cleaning solvent is recommended? I have some Brakleen now. Will that work? Also, do I need to sand off the surface rust on the differential cover before I spray Rustoleum on it?
I used lacquer thinner to remove the excess silicone sealant then took 120 grit then 220 grit to the surface where the new sealant was applied. Also, a putty knife will get the big chunks off nicely. Make sure you have some Simple Green or similar to clean the inside of the cover (if you wish). When you are working on the gasket surface of the axle, make sure to cover the exposed gears. I used a plastic bag.
I meant for the outside surface to paint. Do I need to sand that first?
Oh, no you do not NEED to sand it. Rustoleum (or similar products) are designed to go right over rust. However, I put a wire wheel on my grinder and took it down a few layers. It will look better that way.
Yeah, it would probably look better if sanded, but if it will apply nicely over the rust, I'll just spray and go. I don't have much on there, I just figure I will do what I can to prevent any future issues.
My oil pan has a bit of rust on it, what about just spraying that as well?
Yeah, it would probably look better if sanded, but if it will apply nicely over the rust, I'll just spray and go. I don't have much on there, I just figure I will do what I can to prevent any future issues.
My oil pan has a bit of rust on it, what about just spraying that as well?
I'm told to remove the oil pan you have to pull the motor, which is a bummer. you could mask off around the pan and spray it though.
My oil pan has a bit of rust on it, what about just spraying that as well?
Where did you get your truck? Oil pan rust is rare around Ft. Worth. I'd sand or wire wheel that down before painting the oil pan and keep a close eye on it.
Originally Posted by TreySpooner65
I'm told to remove the oil pan you have to pull the motor, which is a bummer. you could mask off around the pan and spray it though.
For the 7.3, the best way to remove the pan is to pull the motor. Treating rust can be done with the engine in the truck, and depending on how picky you are, you may not even need to tape it off. Just be sure it's clean first.
I'm told to remove the oil pan you have to pull the motor, which is a bummer. you could mask off around the pan and spray it though.
Yeah, I know about the pull the engine thing for the oil pan. That's why I want to stop rust so that I don't have to replace the oil pan due to rust may years down the road.
Where did you get your truck? Oil pan rust is rare around Ft. Worth. I'd sand or wire wheel that down before painting the oil pan and keep a close eye on it..
I bought it here and I believe it was a local vehicle. There is no rust anywhere else. There is a bit of surface rust on it. I just want to treat it now before it, if ever, becomes a problem.
My old oil was a nice maple syrup color, and my limited slip still works.That's probably not a coincidence.
Thats what the color of my oil was too, the color of gear oil. Hold some of the oil up to the sunlight and you can see particulate floating in it. I take it the last part was a shot at me since I stated many times the stock LS performs poorly. I have several SDs with LS diffs to base it off of and mine works normal. I guess I just pay attention to the oil more than some. Next time you service your diff send a sample off for UOA and look at the % of insoluables.
I hate to disagree with DKF, but IMO that is the wrong stuff. Even though it probably works.
You can disagree all you want, everyone has their preferences. The "Right Stuff" is an OE Specified replacement and gets firm like the OE sealant. The ultra black does not get as firm but is very oil resistant. I have and use on a regular basis all the colors of Permatex, never know when you need it.
How much of the sealant will I need? I found the Permatex "The Right Stuff" in a 3oz and a 4oz.
I bought the 5oz. caulk tube and sealed 4 covers with it and have slightly half the tube left.
Where did you get your truck? Oil pan rust is rare around Ft. Worth. I'd sand or wire wheel that down before painting the oil pan and keep a close eye on it.
A member down in the V10 forum posted pics of his V10 SD (from Texas) and it was very rusty underneath. I thought the truck came from up north. Turned out the truck spent its entire life in Texas and the PO took the truck on the beach and got it in salt water. The salt water deal didn't even come to my mind.