when i installed the new ujoints i just cleaned and regreased the double carbin joint ball and spring. and all the ujoints should be in line when you reinstall them. And fordguy it sounds more like a bad ujoint on your truck, or a dry slip joint on the rear shaft. usually when the double carbin goes bad the drive shaft wobbles bad going down the road

 

 

ok the pics are of the uotput on my tcase, if i grab the brass oil seal cover there i can wiggle it up and down slightly, almost to where it rubs on the aluminum of the tcase. im almost 100% positive that there should be no play what so ever but the seal isnt leaking at all, if there was too much play the seal SHOULD leak oil from past problems i had with my mud trucks and other peoples trucks that i have fixed or helped fix over the years.

 

ok i done some google searching and found that there is only one little bearing holding the entire tcase shaft in the rear that also holds all the weight from the driveshaft. it looks like one seal, one small bearing and a gasket is all i need to replace the tail shaft section at the back? has anybody done this if so how hard of a job is it with the case being aluminum? the only other case i ever messed with is a 1978 f150 that i put new gaskets and seals in but thats a cast iron NP205! a real mans transfer case

 

Hey sounds good to me, let us know how it turns out.. I first thought my truck had a u joint problem but it only pops when you change direction. Its like once you get going say forwards for instance.. it will not pop until you go in reverse. Maybe u joints can do all kinds of random stuff i duno.

 

I FINALLY ****ING FIXED IT! It only took me almost eight months but i fixed it. Went to the dealer yesterday after work to get a gas, oil and air filter and was talking to one of the younger guys who works there. Hes a cool guy has the same identical truck as mine except its a 250(yes i know only diff is the rear block) so we started bull ****ting and i told him my problem and he asked, "you bought the ford slip joint grease right?" i said no i used Mobil1 synthetic grease and he said normal grease wont work unless it has Teflon added to absorb shock. And he said the Mobil1 grease absolutely sucks! he said do you see your new ujoints leaking grease all out, its cuz the mobil1 is breaking down when it gets hot. So a 10dollar tube of this BABY BLUE hand cream smelling slip grease fixed my ****ing thud. clunking slipping tooth feeling on take off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cant believe it i went home dropped the shaft and cleaned all the mobil1 off and put the new stuff on. And its like a whole new truck, no noise, thud from park, reverse, and drive. no thud on take off or when slowing down! So to anyone having this kind of problem go to the dealer and spend ten bucks on the baby blue hand cream stuff and save yourself months of hair pulling and cursing!

 

What's the phrase, "The devil's in the details." Great job in staying focused on the problem until you got it fixed. I'm sure that many other FTE members will benefit from your experience.

 

Interesting, because Mobil 1 solved my clunk, a year ago, and it hasn't come back. If it does I will keep this in mind.

I'm really happy for you that it is fixed. You've really worked long and hard at solving this.

 

thanks guys, i cant understand really why packing the crap out of the slip joint with mobil1 wouldnt fix it? i will say this though i repacked it about two months ago with mobil1 and last night when i went to install the special ford grease the mobil1 was almost all gone on the splines and it was very very water thin and dark black in color? almost like it was breaking down or something, i do know it leaks all over the ujoints i installed like water black just like it was in the slip joint. I do know i wont be using mobil1 synthetic ever again.