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Mine was always fair in my 04 screw. Even after recharging and checking blend door. Probably doesn't help that its black with black leather !!! Added a 1/4 turn ball valve to shut off the heater core ..... much better
I also considered adding a ball valve inline with the heater core, and I came pretty close to doing it!!
Short of doing that, 'rebooting' my MTAC (sp?) controller seems to have helped. Disconnect the battery and reconnect it after a couple minutes. When power comes back the blend door 'recalibrates' itself.
It was 95F over the weekend, and it seemed to cool ok after sitting in the sun. Not as cold as my SD, but definitely better than before I rebooted it.
Mine was always fair in my 04 screw. Even after recharging and checking blend door. Probably doesn't help that its black with black leather !!! Added a 1/4 turn ball valve to shut off the heater core ..... much better
The ball valve i used is a Watts brand made of brass 1/2 ".....used in plumbing applications. I also purchased a 4" nipple threaded on both ends(Brass)and cut it in half. Srewed the 2" threaded ends into the ball valve ( I teflon taped the threads). Cut heator core hose up by the firewall. Push the heater core hose over the brass pipe up to the base of the ball valve (very tight fit....it will go). Secure with a couple hose clamps. Maybe 15 dollars for everything....and 10mins of your time.
My 2008's AC also stops blowing cold air on anything more than gradual acceleration. .
I would check if the AC clutch is slipping.
I had that problem on my tow truck.
My compressor is the same as any F series.
I did the heater hose valve mod on my E-350 and it was a large help. I put in a bypass to carry the coolant across the system when the valve was closed.
It is the brass "T" at the bottom of the picture.
The ball valve i used is a Watts brand made of brass 1/2 ".....used in plumbing applications. I also purchased a 4" nipple threaded on both ends(Brass)and cut it in half. Srewed the 2" threaded ends into the ball valve ( I teflon taped the threads). Cut heator core hose up by the firewall. Push the heater core hose over the brass pipe up to the base of the ball valve (very tight fit....it will go). Secure with a couple hose clamps. Maybe 15 dollars for everything....and 10mins of your time.
...The biggest issue I have is there's some deal with my blend door not shutting off hot air completely. So with A/C off, it's always blowing warm air even if it's cold outside.
Last weekend, I 'rebooted' the temperature controller by unplugging power to the unit and then powered it back up. Same thing happens if the battery is disconnected for a while. You can hear the motor and doors moving around when power comes up again.
The jury is out to see if that makes any diff. Wife has been driving the truck, but she hasn't said/complained about anything yet...
I've heard what sounds like a blend door or vent selection door sticking on my '05 SC (manual A/C) every once and a while. Makes abrupt sounds.
The A/C on my '04 crew is weak too. Checked the system many times. I'be mentioned topping it off but adding to it would over pressurize the system. The air temp out of the vents is 48deg when we put a thermometer in it. But still, it doesn't cool well at all any time. There are many components to check and I hope to het it figured out.
I also installed a ball valve and shut off the water supply to my heater core. It lowered my AC temp about 8 or 9 degrees.
I believe its just a 1/2" ball valve with 2" nipples on both ends. Cut the hose supplying water to the heater core, and use clamps to secure. Don't over tighten. The wrench size is 1".
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