OK.

Thank you for letting me know.

I blew it with Green's phone number, which is actually listed a few places below CollectorsAutoSupply. I clicked/copied/pasted from the wrong entry, obviously I wasn't paying attention.

Wesley's eBay store lists the same number as what I listed, that's at least good. Whether they answer or not, well, I can't control that.

Never tried to call up Green Sales but they've been around for a while.

In any event, I'm glad Ed jumped in and found ya one, I hope it fixes your problem.

Thanks for bailing me out, Ed.

 

I agree, and they confirmed what I've already suspected and stated in the thread earlier.

Except in my opinion the Water Temp gauge is functioning nominally.

 

When I get the new fuel sender I'll be sure to compare them side by side and let ya'll know if they are phyisically different. Plus I'll measure the resistance.

 

I just wanted you to know in case you hadn't used those numbers in a while. Wesley's I'm guessing is a small operation. I think it was 12:30-1:00 when I called, then later that afternoon twice. I don't know about Green's. I found 3 different phones numbers for them and none of them worked. My email to them wasn't kicked back but they never replied either.

One of my favorite Falcon Parts stores was out of business for 6 months before someone I gave their number to told me. I had been giving it out to guys for months and no one told me!

I appreciate your help as well. I had forgotten about Ed, though I've heard him mentioned lots of times in posts.

 

I would be interested in that information. I believe the resistance is the same, but the length of the float arm is different with different bends.

This is assuming that they gave you the wrong sending unit when you replaced it the first time.

Did you ever find out if the ground wire to the sending unit had continuity to ground?

 

yes it did have a good ground but I redid it anyway. Still the same.

 

I freaking LOVE your truck.

 

Thanks, I've had it back from the body shop about a month now and I've had 3 strangers walk up to me and offer to buy it. Its been worth the work I put into it.


Update: Fuel sending unit is on it's way. I'll install it as soon as it gets here. Thanks Ed!

 

I even love the fact it has an inline six. Just fits the truck.

 

The fuel sending unit I ordered from Ed should be here Thursday. I'll try to put it in that night.
I finally got a reply from Green Sales. I thought I would post it here for the phone numbers and part number.

Oh Ed, don't worry about the price, you gave me faster service!

************************************************** *******
Hello Ed,
We do have the E5TZ9275H for $XX.XX each plus shipping.
Thank you,
Joshua

GREEN SALES COMPANY
2172 SEYMOUR AVE
CINCINNATI OH 45237
TOLL FREE: 800-543-4959
LOCAL: 513-731-3304
FAX: 513-731-4775

 

Ok, I got the sending unit and swapped it out. The one I have was slightly different. The pickup tube was at a slightly different angle. And the arm with the float was slightly shorter.
BUT, when I put the new one in and turned on the switch the gauge should have gone to half a tank, it didn't, it still reads quarter of a tank.

So it's not the sending unit. I have motorcraft oil and temp sending units and I'll put them in this weekend. I have an IVR too and I'll put that in and report back.

 

There has to be some resistance between the sender and the fuel gauge.

Putting a meter between the fuel gauge and the fuel gauge ground at the sending unit connector might narrow it down.

Your problem is not typical, to say the least....

I doubt it's the ICVR...

 

Do you know what the voltage should be at the 2 pins in the sending unit connector?

 

No, I don't know the voltage off hand.

There should be zero resistance between the wire ends.

A: What I would do is check for continuity on the wire between the fuel gauge and the fuel sender connector.

Remove the cluster and check the continuity between the Yellow/White stripe wire at the cluster connector and either the Yellow/white stripe wire or the Dark Blue/Yellow
wire at the sender connector. You will need extra long leads...

B: If you get continuity, then check the cluster printed circut, and the fuel gauge. Make sure the copper of the printed circut isn't oxidized, or damaged. You can clean the oxidation with a pencil eraser, just lightly erase the oxidation away like you would erasing a mistake on a piece of paper. Don't use too much force as with the paper, the pinted circut can be damaged. Use dielectric silicone grease to help prevent further oxidation.

C: You already done this but, connect the wires at the sending unit connector together, with a jumper wire, the gauge should peg beyond full.

D: If all that checks out, go ahead and replace the ICVR since you got one, and see what it does.

E: The truck doesn't have dual tanks does it? Never did ask that... If so check the selector switch connection, remove the connector from the switch and connect the fuel gauge to the sending unit directly with a jumper wire at the connector. Then test...

F: If that checks out make sure of the amount of fuel in your tank, fill the tank up and see what the gauge reads. I've accidentally got the float arm and the sump tube hung up together on installation before, and this might straighten it out.

G: it's possible to have a new bad sender, but highly unlikely...

This should check every possible scenerio that it could be.

 

Checked everything you listed and no go. Everything passes.

I have now replaced the oil, temp and fuel sending units. No changes in the gauges. Well, I have spares now.

Replaced the IVR and NO change. Really thought that would do it. Being the last thing I tried and having to tear my dash apart to replace it logic dictates that would be the guilty part.

If I ever find the problem I'll update but looks like this will be one of those hard to track down problems.