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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Drivers Electric Window not Working

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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:32 AM
  #16  
Torky2's Avatar
Torky2
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 15
Originally Posted by BGBRY
I'm having the same problem with my newly acquired '96 F150. The passenger side worked great at first but it now doesn't work at all, just like the driver's side. It looks like power goes to them since the amp meter needle moves when I hit the switch to either window. Is there a relay that could be bad? Or is this the same symptom that you guys experienced and was fixed by the motor gear kit?

Bryant
You actually have a dash voltmeter, not an ammeter, right? But either way, some needle movement when pressing a window switch sounds like the motor is getting power, but won't move. A better test, with engine OFF, is to have a door open so the dome light is on, then press the window switch. If the dome light dims, then the motor is getting power and is drawing current.

Unless a window guide is messed up or something, the cause is almost always a worn-out commutator or brushes in the motor. Time for a new one.

If the pegs on the back of the gear in the window motor's gearcase have crumbled as discussed above, the window motor runs with a rrrr-rrrr-rrrr rhythm to it, but it won't move the window. In that case, I will clean out and fix the motor gearcase, if it is NOT the driver window. I use the driver window a lot, the others rarely, so the driver's window gets a lot of use in comparison. If the pegs crumbled on the driver's motor, the wear-out of the motor's commutator or brushes is not far behind due to use. That's what I have found out in many years and many Ford Lincoln Mercury vehicles. I got tired of pulling a motor again, a year later to replace it. And I learned to NEVER buy a rebuilt motor... a lot of crap that soon died, or developed the broken-peg problem, and had to pull off door panel and do it all over again.

Oh, and to replace the window motors, search for a procedure that you drill the holes to get access to the motor screws, DON'T drill out the rivets!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 11:19 AM
  #17  
farrell262's Avatar
farrell262
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Evanston, Wyoming
yeah i have a stripped gear in mine i can hear the "rrr rrr rrr rrrhythm" and my window tries to fall lol but i can hand move it up and down
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #18  
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iafordf150
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21
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From: Cedar Rapids Iowa area,
I had this problem on my 96, try switching the switch on pass to drivers side, my switches were bad and I guess new ones are not available, I found a junk yard set on e-bay and with in a week I needed the other one!!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 03:07 PM
  #19  
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BGBRY
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Great info Torky! Yes it is a Volt Meter on my dash. I'm used to my '70 F-250 with an Amp Meter. I did try the switches with the dome light and it does dim so the motors are getting power. I also switched the switches when the passenger side was the only one working at the time and it didn't change the problem. It's weird that one day the passenger motor is strong and perfect, then next day....nothing. You really have to drill holes to get to the fasteners? Bummer!!!! Thanks guys

Bryant
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #20  
Encho's Avatar
Encho
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Club FTE Gold Member
Hmmm, sadly, i can't find a commutator replacement around here, i'll try some other new brushes again, if those don't work, then a new motor for my door... or maybe i'll just skip all the hasle and buy the new one, i'm tired of trying to make this one work...
 
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