When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm having the same problem with my newly acquired '96 F150. The passenger side worked great at first but it now doesn't work at all, just like the driver's side. It looks like power goes to them since the amp meter needle moves when I hit the switch to either window. Is there a relay that could be bad? Or is this the same symptom that you guys experienced and was fixed by the motor gear kit?
Bryant
You actually have a dash voltmeter, not an ammeter, right? But either way, some needle movement when pressing a window switch sounds like the motor is getting power, but won't move. A better test, with engine OFF, is to have a door open so the dome light is on, then press the window switch. If the dome light dims, then the motor is getting power and is drawing current.
Unless a window guide is messed up or something, the cause is almost always a worn-out commutator or brushes in the motor. Time for a new one.
If the pegs on the back of the gear in the window motor's gearcase have crumbled as discussed above, the window motor runs with a rrrr-rrrr-rrrr rhythm to it, but it won't move the window. In that case, I will clean out and fix the motor gearcase, if it is NOT the driver window. I use the driver window a lot, the others rarely, so the driver's window gets a lot of use in comparison. If the pegs crumbled on the driver's motor, the wear-out of the motor's commutator or brushes is not far behind due to use. That's what I have found out in many years and many Ford Lincoln Mercury vehicles. I got tired of pulling a motor again, a year later to replace it. And I learned to NEVER buy a rebuilt motor... a lot of crap that soon died, or developed the broken-peg problem, and had to pull off door panel and do it all over again.
Oh, and to replace the window motors, search for a procedure that you drill the holes to get access to the motor screws, DON'T drill out the rivets!
I had this problem on my 96, try switching the switch on pass to drivers side, my switches were bad and I guess new ones are not available, I found a junk yard set on e-bay and with in a week I needed the other one!!
Great info Torky! Yes it is a Volt Meter on my dash. I'm used to my '70 F-250 with an Amp Meter. I did try the switches with the dome light and it does dim so the motors are getting power. I also switched the switches when the passenger side was the only one working at the time and it didn't change the problem. It's weird that one day the passenger motor is strong and perfect, then next day....nothing. You really have to drill holes to get to the fasteners? Bummer!!!! Thanks guys
Hmmm, sadly, i can't find a commutator replacement around here, i'll try some other new brushes again, if those don't work, then a new motor for my door... or maybe i'll just skip all the hasle and buy the new one, i'm tired of trying to make this one work...