When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I looked into doing this once, and it ended up being close to $1000 to replace all the front end suspension components. Unless you have an extra grand laying around, I would only fix what needs to be fixed and don't worry about the rest.
For the pulling problem, I would take a close look at the front brakes. Pull the slide pins out and check for wear. I have seen them wear all the way through to the rubber. Lube them up good and try it out. If it still pulls then you need either calipers or front brake lines. I would just replace the calipers and lines on both sides and be done with it rather than have to bleed everything twice. Neither part is very expensive.
My 92 does the exact same thing and through online research, the cause may be trailing arm bushings. I haven't changed mine to find out yet if that is true, but I intend to change them first to see if it makes a difference.
It could very well be radius arm bushings. But they are a pain to replace and brakes are very easy to replace. Besides, on a 25 year old truck, the rubber lines are going to be in rough shape to begin with.
I looked into doing this once, and it ended up being close to $1000 to replace all the front end suspension components. Unless you have an extra grand laying around, I would only fix what needs to be fixed and don't worry about the rest.
For the pulling problem, I would take a close look at the front brakes. Pull the slide pins out and check for wear. I have seen them wear all the way through to the rubber. Lube them up good and try it out. If it still pulls then you need either calipers or front brake lines. I would just replace the calipers and lines on both sides and be done with it rather than have to bleed everything twice. Neither part is very expensive.
Can you get those pins new from autozone? Mine were pretty rusty and the rubber looks shot. The ends were all knarled up too from someone else beating on them.
Didn't see them on autozone's website, but I did however find them on Advance's website. Im going to replace the front hoses and pin tonight to see how that helps. I just got to thinking more about those hoses, it makes sense that if one isn't very strong anymore that could for sure not allow an equal amount of force on both caliper pistons...its easy enough to do this first.
Calipers are cheap and more likely (IMO) to cause the problem. If you replace the hoses and the calipers later, you're going to have to bleed the system twice.
If you do the hoses, you might as well do the calipers as well. Just did mine a few weeks ago and they are something like 17 dollars a piece. I would say the calipers and/or hoses are more than likely the cause of your problem.
Only got around to replacing the caliper pins tonight. The parts store was out of brake hoses. Will have them tomorrow. Will update then.
Those hoses aren't too bad of a job to replace. I had to do it on my first visit to Gary's shop. I had been putting it off, even though they were in *bad* shape. One started leaking in Gary's driveway. Fortunately, the local parts store had them in stock, and Gary has a lift. So, while my truck was on the lift to track down the trans leak (loose cooler line) we also replaced those hoses.
I would give the radius arm bushings a close look. If they get soaked with oil, they will get super soft, and won't be long for the world. If they are worn enough for you hear any clunking, they are loose enough to make it drive funny.
Replacing them isn't too bad, if you know a couple tricks. I just did this on dad's 74.
Removing the lower shock bolt, and letting the I-beam drop down far enough to relax the spring makes it MUCH easier to replace those bushings. No come-along or rachet strap needed. Just that big wrench/socket to fit the radius arm nut (~1-1/8" or 28mm on the 74) and a "cheater bar"......
As for the caliper pins, I hope you greased up the sliding points well. That really makes a difference in the long run.
Those hoses aren't too bad of a job to replace. I had to do it on my first visit to Gary's shop. I had been putting it off, even though they were in *bad* shape. One started leaking in Gary's driveway. Fortunately, the local parts store had them in stock, and Gary has a lift. So, while my truck was on the lift to track down the trans leak (loose cooler line) we also replaced those hoses.
I would give the radius arm bushings a close look. If they get soaked with oil, they will get super soft, and won't be long for the world. If they are worn enough for you hear any clunking, they are loose enough to make it drive funny.
Replacing them isn't too bad, if you know a couple tricks. I just did this on dad's 74.
Removing the lower shock bolt, and letting the I-beam drop down far enough to relax the spring makes it MUCH easier to replace those bushings. No come-along or rachet strap needed. Just that big wrench/socket to fit the radius arm nut (~1-1/8" or 28mm on the 74) and a "cheater bar"......
As for the caliper pins, I hope you greased up the sliding points well. That really makes a difference in the long run.
I think you hit on something there RW. I have noticed a clunking sound coming from right under my feet just the other day. I have heard it maybe three times now. The old engine had zero effective oil seals on it so those bushings very well may have gotten soaked in oil.
I did not greases those pins. I didn't know I had to. Will do that tonight. Maybe Gary will let me put my truck up on his lift to replace those calipers and hoses tomorrow while I am up there???? Gary???? You listening??? That would help in testing out that bushing as well....
I cannot remember exactly how the 86 is setup as far as the calipers/pins. On the older models, the caliper slides in the spindle and along the retainer pin. I always clean the mating surfaces well, and give them a coating of wheel bearing grease. This prevents the mating surfaces from rusting, which will cause the caliper to not slide as it should, typically wearing the inner pad much more than the outer.
It really makes a difference in the long run.
Yeah, the radius arm bushings being worn and/or oil soaked will allow the I-beam to move fore-aft, which can cause the tires to toe in/out. This can cause both wandering on the road, and pulling to one/both sides under braking.
Just one more item a "real" alignment shop would have caught before making any adjustments to the front end. The chain tire stores are more interested in volume of bussiness, than the overall quality of service, in far too many cases. True customer service is rapidly becoming a lost art form.
Yes, I should have mentioned that. Clean the grooves out really well with a wire brush and coat both sides of the pins with grease. Wheel bearing grease works fine.
Ray - Big Brother is listening. And, I'd be happy to have you put your truck on the lift, but to do so we have to get the parts truck out of the shop. Easy 2 man job - but best to do after we get the parts off it.
RW - If you come you can steer and we'll push. Then you can show us the easy way to change the bushings.