Hi, I've got a question i hope someone can answer. I recently did some head gaskets and studs and new injectors for a friend on his 05 6.0L. Two of the injectors hold down bracket backed off and burn the injector and the o-ring. I took the old injectors out and cleaned the holes up real good with some q tips. After I got it all back together I now have no oil pressure on crank and am getting some air pressure in the fuel filter when I crack it open. He didn't run it to long with the injectors bad like that but i'm wondering if anyone has an idea why i can't get it to crank now. Along with this problem he was having a low fuel level sensor bad and his fuel level guage on the dash was reading no fuel. I just replaced that now and haven't tried to restart yet cause it was getting dark and raining. I am just nervous cause of the no oil pressure on crank symptom. Hope someone has some suggestions. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

if your getting air bubles in the upper fuel bowel suspect a injector combustion o-ring or bad hold down or cracked head

If you have this problem they say to replace the injector hold down on the ones that didnt seal
I went 26ft/lbs on the injector hold down bolts

blow those bolt holes out with compressed air

my hpo take awhile to get all the air out and start how longya been cranking

and welcome to FTE

 

thanks for the response. i am cranking for awhile. longer then i believe it should take. and the weird thing is the oil pressure on the dash guage is not going up. it usually always does. i''m really afraid of a cracked head since the injectors were loose like that and they were pouring so much fuel in the cylinder. hope to heck that's not the case. i think i will proceed with the new hold downs and torque to 26. i did torque them but you never know. of course it's the two in the back on the passanger side so they are hard to get to. thanks again for the advice and help

 

a cracked head will not cause the injector hold down to come loose that I no of

just make shure the injector hold down bolt hole is clear no fluid in it

you might of had fluid in those bolt holes causing the bolt to achieve torque before its properly seated whitch could be the case if you still have air bubbles at the upper fuel bowel
might have to rering those injectors and new copper combustion crush washer


check all the wiring harness make shure everthing got plugged back in

mine might take a minute or 2 to crank after Iv been into the HPO system
give it plenty of rest in between cranks I go like 10-15 second crank bursts then rest


do you have any thing to monitor it with

hang in there you will get it

 

i'm ordering an ae scanner. but i'm new with that. what do u use to monitor it while crank?

 

I use a scangauge II

www.scangauge.com
click here^^^^^^^^^^^^

SGII is just cheap

the AE is better though you will be able to do a cylinder balance test and probably some others SGII wont

neither one will get fuel pressure or egt theres no sensor to pick these up

 

read this thread it will show what all the SGII picks up
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...injectors.html

its a great unit for the price

 

ALWAYS install new copper washers when you remove an injector!

ALWAYS inspect the hold downs before re-installing (or use new ones like you plan to do).

Many folks I know have been torquing to 28 ft-lbs now (for the T45 hold downs ONLY). I (EDIT) could go with that, but no more than that (and I don't know that more than 26 ft-lbs is really necessary). For the T40 hold downs, Ford states 24 ft-lbs, and it MIGHT be ok to go as much as 26 ft-lbs. I wouldn't go higher than that though!!

ALWAYS have your torque wrench calibrated or have the calibration confirmed when you begin to do an injector job. Also, make sure the bolt holes are absolutely clean!

Seems to me you have multiple issues.

Please confirm that you have oil flow to the oil filter - remove filter, hold drain valve down w/ a screwdriver, and have someone crank. It only takes 7.5 psig to see oil pressure on the oil pressure dash gauge.

The least bit of trash in the oil system can cause the IPR valve to fail. Might be worth pulling it to see what it (the screen) looks like.

There is a no-start thread in the Tech Folder, it will tell you how to measure ICP volts if you want to do that before getting your diagnostic equipment. The ICP volts will tell you what the pressure is from your high pressure oil pump.

 

So i worked on it a little bit more today. i'm still getting some air into the fuel filter on the top of engine. This is what I think it's from and if you could let me know what you think. I think that since the injectors were loose and the bottom o-rings burned up some, there was a bunch of soot on the sides where the injector sites. even with the new injectors do u think that if the walls arnt' real clean that there could be some combustion air going up and past the lower o ring and into the fuel rail and into the fuel filter housing?? the no oil pressure on the guage is still worring me a bit. i took out the oil filter on top and pushed the button down and had my assistant crank, it filled up just fine, so i'm guessing that means the lpo system is working ok. still need to check hpo system. just seems weird for no pressure on dash guage. thanks a ton for all your help

 

bismic, whre is the ipr valve? and also is the icp the one on the right side hp oil rail?? or is it on the back?? thanks a ton.

 

The 2005 ICP is on the passenger valve cover - very accessible.

The IPR is behind the turbo. Need to remove heat shields to get to it.

Page 11: Component Locations

To remove the ipr... IPR socket Tool # 303-769 ($70) - It is 1 3/8 inch, w/ a slot in the side to miss the connector.
Remove the degass bottle, the ficm, remove the bracket, remove the 10mm nut that has the injector ground wire (which is the one at the left rear of the intake), then remove the same intake bolt that the nut came off of. You can then stick your hand in and finish the job. Also unvelcro the IPR insulation wrap and there is a little wire clip - remove it and then unsnap the sheild. I also unhook the #8 injector by pushing the wire clip in to keep from breaking something.
NOTE: use an IPR socket (or homemade version) and swivel and a 6" extension.

 

Bismic, so your thinking take out the ipr and check the screen? Was I right in thinking the low pressure system is ok since filter is filling up? And what do u think about the air in fuel filter housing? Thanks again, your knowledge is so helpful!

 

the LPO and the HPO cant build cant pressure with a bad IPR its just sending all the oil back to the crank case not allowing the pressure to build. The IPR is very sensetive to any trash in the oil system lint off the rags you used to clean things up with is usually the culprit if it goes out soon after being worked on


As far as the air in the fuel Id go thru and rering every injector you messed with new o-rings and new copper combustion washer and hold downs. make shure the injector cups are clean. And BLOW OUT all injector hold down BOLT HOLES with compressed air. and then tourque hold downs to the new 28 ft/lbs

heres some injector info from tech folder
on installation some good tips

Page 70: Unique Service Procedures

Page 71: Unique Service Procedures

 

How do I clean the injector cups that are real black from the loose injectors? Afraid to get gunk down in cylinder. they are still a little black. Plus what is the easiest way to get a copper washer out from the bottom?

 

that could be your air in fuel problem if any injector got double compression washer they usually come out with the inject but sometimes not
use a little pick or something to get it out

use a rag with cleaner on it to clean up inject cups purple power works good