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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:32 AM
  #16  
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A house will not settle of you put the right foundation under it. I have more than one friend living in a moved house. Most of them have 3/4 boards on both sides of every wall. Some have full 2x4 rough cut studs. If the house is solid, I can redo the wiring,plumbing & insulate it myself. I'm going to lose my so much on my house in Memphis, that its looking like a way to get back in a paid for house. I'll take a 40k loss on my house over what it was worth in 07. If not I'd build new. There are some good old houses in this area. I hope to find one cheap.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:04 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Kruse
The house that I live in now was moved about 6 miles in 2003. It is a two story house with a basement underneath, for a total of three stories. It was built in the very early 1900s and has about 5000 square feet. I poured the entire foundation with the help of my brother and put in the concrete basement floor with the help of a neighbor. After it was moved, I completely tore out the plaster and lath walls and replaced with wall board, with all new plumbing and wiring. It cost me about $4500 to have the electrical linemen cut the overhead lines and re-splice them after the house went through. (Most of the time they sat in their trucks and drank coffee and ate donuts) It also cost me about $3000 by the house movers to have it moved. The moving truck probably moved down the road at about 5 mph. I probably didn't make too many friends on the highway that day as the house blocked traffic in some areas for about 30 minutes.
As far as having a glass of water in the house during the move and not spill, I can believe it. The mover told me he had moved a house right before mine that had a two-story brick fireplace in it and he told me that they didn't even have to do any mortar repair on it afterwards.
As far as settling afterwards, I've had NO problems whatsoever. I can't remember what he said my house weighed, but I believe it was right at 25 tons.

Did you install the foundation then move the house onto it??? If so, how is this done??? I would love to see a picture if this is how you did the move.

Thanks,
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #18  
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I've seen them use bridging to roll the house over the foundation. It can be done.House movers have the timbers to build a ramp & supports to do the job.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:33 AM
  #19  
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the way i have seen it done is they dig the hole and put the foundation in, leaving windows where the beams are.
they move the house to the site, then slide it from the trailer to over the foundation on the beams, then jack the house and remove the beams, then lower the house onto the new foundation.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:36 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dchamberlain
Or moving A house, in this case.

In a town with less than 250 people, this is an event.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1016299...CL7Ypvmp6-qdVg

After looking at the house.....why?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by kw5413
After looking at the house.....why?
Yea, it ain't much, is it? I wondered the same thing. But, it may have historic value. Maybe a famous underwater basket weaver lived there for a week in 1936. In my town, that would be reason to file an injunction to stop demolition, a lawsuit against the city for issuing the permit to demolish, and another suit against the developer. And I am NOT kidding.

One owner of a googie style restaurant got so fed up with the system that he wrecked his building under cover of darkness. He has found himself in a very sticky wicket over that decision. It is going to be expensive to get out of trouble, but in the long run it may have been the least expensive option. Other developers are paying close attention.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
the way i have seen it done is they dig the hole and put the foundation in, leaving windows where the beams are.
they move the house to the site, then slide it from the trailer to over the foundation on the beams, then jack the house and remove the beams, then lower the house onto the new foundation.

Would love to see this...I'm a structural engineer and really can't get my head around this! Thanks for the explanation to you and Lariat97!!
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Eatonpcat
Would love to see this...I'm a structural engineer and really can't get my head around this! Thanks for the explanation to you and Lariat97!!
usually 4 large steel beams set 2-3 inches higher than the top of the foundation. the beams supporting the house are opposite direction of the ones on top of the foundation.
back up to the heavily greased beams, and set the trailer to the same height. then push the house from trailer onto beams with a large track loader.
once the building is properly placed, they put cribbing from the floor to support the jacking system and lift enough to pull out the beams. let the building down onto the foundation, then remove the cribbing and under-house beams out through the window holes, and install basement windows. takes 2 days on average. 1 day to set, and one day to remove all the stuff out of the basement.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
usually 4 large steel beams set 2-3 inches higher than the top of the foundation. the beams supporting the house are opposite direction of the ones on top of the foundation.
back up to the heavily greased beams, and set the trailer to the same height. then push the house from trailer onto beams with a large track loader.
once the building is properly placed, they put cribbing from the floor to support the jacking system and lift enough to pull out the beams. let the building down onto the foundation, then remove the cribbing and under-house beams out through the window holes, and install basement windows. takes 2 days on average. 1 day to set, and one day to remove all the stuff out of the basement.

Very cool...Bet the glass of water on the table spills when they push the house...LOL Thanks again that gives me the picture I needed.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by kw5413
After looking at the house.....why?
It's not much to look at from the outside, but that can be fixed up. I haven't seen it myself but from what I here the inside, with a little refinishing, will be very nice. Most of these older buildings were built like nothing you will see today. Clear lumber, very ornate woodwork, solid construction. Stuff that can't be duplicated, but can be cleaned up and preserved.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:24 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Eatonpcat
Did you install the foundation then move the house onto it??? If so, how is this done??? I would love to see a picture if this is how you did the move.
I used the insulated blocks from a company called SmartBlock. Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF): SmartBlock Insulating Concrete Form
If you are going to build a foundation yourself (like I did), it's the only way to go.

I carefully measured the dimensions of the house and built the foundation walls using these blocks that get filled with concrete. After the concrete cures for about a month, the house was picked up and moved and slid on the foundation. I have some adjustable supports in my basement to hold up the center of the house.
There is a company near me that moves buildings as their sole business and they told me exactly what to do to prepare for the move. (E.G. Schedule the electrical line cutting with the power company, get the road permits, cut down some trees on some narrow roads, warn the medical field of roads being temporarily closed, etc.) I remember they used a 1950ish International truck with a super granny low because during starts or corners they have to go pretty slow. I have some photos of the move somewhere. If I can find them, I'll post them.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dchamberlain
It's not much to look at from the outside, but that can be fixed up. I haven't seen it myself but from what I here the inside, with a little refinishing, will be very nice. Most of these older buildings were built like nothing you will see today. Clear lumber, very ornate woodwork, solid construction. Stuff that can't be duplicated, but can be cleaned up and preserved.
This.
That's why a lot of older buildings or houses get saved.
My house has 9 foot ceilings, solid 3/4" tongue-and-groove flooring, oak trim from 100+ years ago and stained glass windows. (To be honest here, I put energy efficient windows on the outside and moved the old stained glass windows in the inside) The walls are probably twice the strength of a modern house because they were made of oak instead of pine or fur.
My house would have probably cost $200,000 more if I had tried to duplicate it in today's money.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 03:20 PM
  #28  
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The old houses have a lot more wood in them than todays houses. Like you said many are oak instead of pine or fir. My dads house has all full size lumber. Its rough sawn put who cares its in the walls. Dads house is 59 years old & straighter than 90 % of the homes built today. Real tradesmen built the old homes. Many used hand saws because skill saws weren't invented.The guys who taught me would tear out a whole wall if it was a 1/4 inch off. I've trimmed homes that were off over 3 inches on every wall in the house. I don't stay with a builder that builds crap. You will never get the warranty work done. It will settle enough in the first year to jamb every door.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 05:44 PM
  #29  
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While our city is laying off personnel, cutting back services, and proposing the reduction of city benefits....we were married to the move and Restoration of a family founder's home.

When it is all said and done I believe the price tag will be $ 1.3 million. For a town of 55,000 that is a lot of money.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Kruse
I used the insulated blocks from a company called SmartBlock. Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF): SmartBlock Insulating Concrete Form
If you are going to build a foundation yourself (like I did), it's the only way to go.

I carefully measured the dimensions of the house and built the foundation walls using these blocks that get filled with concrete. After the concrete cures for about a month, the house was picked up and moved and slid on the foundation. I have some adjustable supports in my basement to hold up the center of the house.
There is a company near me that moves buildings as their sole business and they told me exactly what to do to prepare for the move. (E.G. Schedule the electrical line cutting with the power company, get the road permits, cut down some trees on some narrow roads, warn the medical field of roads being temporarily closed, etc.) I remember they used a 1950ish International truck with a super granny low because during starts or corners they have to go pretty slow. I have some photos of the move somewhere. If I can find them, I'll post them.

Cool stuff...I've designed a few buildings using ICF's!! Please find the pictures...I would love to see them!
 
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