1987 Ranger stmble? fuel problem??
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1987 Ranger stmble? fuel problem??
Im new to the forums. I have an 87 Ranger with the 2.9 fuel injection motor, 2wd 5 speed. It has developed a strange idle and somewhat of a rich running condition. I had a friend look at it with his scan tool and it came up with a code 63 and 33. It was for a EGR valve and TPS sensor. I replaced both and it still has a stumble I guess I should call it. It is mostly at lower RPMs and only at a low throttle input. My friend rode along and said he could see black smoke puffing out the exhaust when it would start to stumble. My next guess is that the injectors are bad or that there is a manifold leak or something that did not show as a code. I need all the help I can get because I am out of options, and money.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Dexter, MI
It sounds like to need to solve the low operating temperature problem for starters. If the engine is running cold, it will also be running rich. What preventative maintenance has been done on the cooling system, for instance, flushing the system, changing coolant, replacing thermostat?
Try replacing the thermostat and see how the engine runs. Let us know what you find out.
Try replacing the thermostat and see how the engine runs. Let us know what you find out.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
Wouldn't hurt to check the fuel pressure regulator. If it sticks or has a failed diaphragm, it will provide too much fuel. The computer will not go into 'closed loop' until the engine has reached a certain temperature, which basically means the fuel and timing are not based on feedback from the O2 sensor nor any other, generally speaking. Instead, the computer relies on a stored set of parameters which allow the engine to run, but not as well as it could.
tom
tom
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Yea I did a full colling system flush and changed the thermostat. I am going to check the scan tool again to see if any other codes pop up this time that didnt the first time. Thanks for all the input. I hope to get it figured out.
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OK still having the same problem. I have replaced the EGR valve and sensor, TPS sensor and wireing. The thermostat is new and rated for 195 degrees. The truck is running at temp. All rad hoses are hot and so is the cap now. It still has a really bad stumble at lower RPMs and low throttle input. I am not getting as much rich smoke out the exhaust as before but still the same engine running poorly. Any info as to where I should go from here would be greatly appreciated. So far I havent spent anything close as by taking it to a shop or dealer. 
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Logistics Pro
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From: suburban atlanta
I repeat myself: Check the fuel pressure regulator. It can raise the pressure too high and make the mixture too rich. You can also check the ACT and ECT sensors for air and coolant temp. They will have a specific resistance at a given temperature. You just need to be in the ballpark range to be ok with them. If off, they would make the computer think the engine was too cold or too hot, or the air coming in was ditto. It would throw the injector spec off.
tom
tom
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Well the fuel pressure regulator is where I sit. Everyone seems to say the same thing so thats is what I will do. I dont have $117 for one so the truck will have to sit and wait untill I can find work. I cant believe that the regulator is that dang much for this old of a truck. Too bad I cant trust one off of a junk yard truck.
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From: suburban atlanta
Did you use a pressure gauge to condemn the regulator, or did it have a perforated diaphragm? What were the pressure readings with the vacuum line attached, and then disconnected, engine running at idle?
If I could get a few at a junkyard for ~$20, I'd try that before the $100+. They are pretty reliable, and most junkyards guarantee the parts for 90 days.
tom
If I could get a few at a junkyard for ~$20, I'd try that before the $100+. They are pretty reliable, and most junkyards guarantee the parts for 90 days.
tom
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The pressure at idle was way off. It didnt realy change with or without vac line. I have a slavage yard close by that is owned by a NASCAR driver I used to work for. I may be able to do what you said. Get a few off of some trucks he has and hope that works. The diaphram was pretty much worthless in the regulator.
Logistics Pro
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From: suburban atlanta
If the diaphragm was holy, it would have allowed engine vacuum, and fuel pressure, to feed fuel to the intake manifold through the vacuum line. You would have seen black smoke all over the place, and horrendous fuel consumption.
I have replaced a regulator on an ohv 4.0, and they sure were proud of that little gem, asking about $120 for a part smaller than a coffee cup. When it failed, the fuel consumption went to about half of normal. Ten mpg instead of 20 in an extended Aerostar.
That thing was nasty to work on. No room, and you needed orangutang arms to reach back to where the engine was. Drove nice, though.
tom
I have replaced a regulator on an ohv 4.0, and they sure were proud of that little gem, asking about $120 for a part smaller than a coffee cup. When it failed, the fuel consumption went to about half of normal. Ten mpg instead of 20 in an extended Aerostar.
That thing was nasty to work on. No room, and you needed orangutang arms to reach back to where the engine was. Drove nice, though.
tom
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coolguy1419
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