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5th Wheel Hitch Final Stretch

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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #1  
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5th Wheel Hitch Final Stretch

I am on the final stretch of buying a 5th wheel trailer. Probably would help if I installed a hitch first!

Reading all of the posts on the subject and getting a lot of PM help (thank you!) on the subject, I have narrowed my hitch selection down to 3 choices. All of these are based on the fact I absolutely need a empty bed at the end of the season (during the winter, I will be loading the bed up with ballast for the snow plow and salt for the rear spreader).

My choices are Reese Elite, B&W and the Pull Rite Superglide. Would appreciate any feedback on the reliability of these hitches. Owning a short bed, I'm petrified of ending up on a You Tube video about how to break your rear window with a 5th wheel trailer -- so I am leaning towards a slider. Please advise if I am being too paranoid...

Not me PLEASE! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yajlv...e_gdata_player
Would appreciate any comments...
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #2  
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Champ198
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I got the Reese 18k hitch with the slider and the OEM style underbed brackets.

I don't have a scalloped nose on my 5th wheel cap, and like you, I don't want a nice caved in dent on my cab from turning too sharp!

It is a heavy hitch and it may take you and someone else to move it. You can disassemble the head off the hitch to make it easier. Because of the the way the legs and the slide are made, you may feel just a tad of what is called "slop" so don't freak - it will hold together.

When you hold the brakes and the trailer and "slide" the hitch to lock, sometimes it makes a huge BAM! sound but that's normal. You want a good lock when you slide it.

Overall I'm happy with it. I've had it since last September and it is weathering very well.

The B&W was on my short list too but I was worried about the setback (something like 6 additional inches behind the axle) as not being enough and went with the Reese slider. I called Rickatic and spoke to him, he loves his B&W.

My setup:

Underbed Rails:


Pucks in bed:


 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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Champ -- couple of questions. BTW -- thanks for posting the pix. From what I read on the Reese site, the kit that is available on the long bed will fit the short bed without any hole drilling, correct?

Also, the SuperGlide site talks about having to manually activate the slider on "other" manufacturer's units. Is this such a big deal?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 12:07 PM
  #4  
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If you buy a fiver with an extended pinbox (almost all) and a contoured nosecone you won't need a slider....but...if you really want one either of those are fine. They are heavy which is why some of us like a 2-piece hitch.

I had a slider in my F150 short box and never used it. A few friends bought sliders and not have used them beyond trying them in a parking lot once or twice. They're really not a requirement anymore.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #5  
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Champ198
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Originally Posted by Marauder92V
Champ -- couple of questions. BTW -- thanks for posting the pix. From what I read on the Reese site, the kit that is available on the long bed will fit the short bed without any hole drilling, correct?

Also, the SuperGlide site talks about having to manually activate the slider on "other" manufacturer's units. Is this such a big deal?
The Reese underbed rails fit both long/short beds. I have a short bed. There is no drilling on the frame and all holes already exist. My rails are the same ones that Ford installs at the factory, I just bought them from my RV dealer. You will need to drill four holes in the truck bed where the round indents are. Simply put the pilot hole where Ford's center punch mark is and do it!

If you look at the photo of my hitch, you will see a long straight black lever on the driver's side. This lever rod unlocks the slide on both slide rails. (we had the lever installed in the rear position by mistake when we assembled the hitch in the photo and we've corrected it - it really didn't matter and would work either way)

Before you back into your campsite, you will:
1.) pull a small pin on the hitch to release the slide lever
2.) flip the lever back to slide
3.) once inside truck, put trailer brake on lock to lock down the trailer wheels so the truck will move forward but your camper doesn't (slide the brake control lever to apply all power/gain to trailer brakes)
4.) put truck in drive and gradually and slowly inch forward
5.) the slide hitch will slide back and the rails and "lock" (hence the loud bang noise when it stops the truck)
6.) insert to the small pin back into the slide lock
7.) back into campsite

Takes no time at all and you're out of the way. If you get a manual slider, no matter the brand, practice this at home a couple of times to make sure you're comfortable and can do it in the dark if needed. If I keep my truck, I plan to get a rubber bed mat and cut out the holes for the pucks. That way I can throw firewood, blocks, whatever in there so I won't scratch the paint.

Good luck!
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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I have a Reese 25K that I got from Ford when I bought the truck. This is my third 5vr hitch and I like it the best. If I hadn't of done that, I would have bought a B&W, know several folks who have them and really like them. JMO Thanks
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Champ198
I got the Reese 18k hitch with the slider and the OEM style underbed brackets.

I don't have a scalloped nose on my 5th wheel cap, and like you, I don't want a nice caved in dent on my cab from turning too sharp!

It is a heavy hitch and it may take you and someone else to move it. You can disassemble the head off the hitch to make it easier. Because of the the way the legs and the slide are made, you may feel just a tad of what is called "slop" so don't freak - it will hold together.

When you hold the brakes and the trailer and "slide" the hitch to lock, sometimes it makes a huge BAM! sound but that's normal. You want a good lock when you slide it.

Overall I'm happy with it. I've had it since last September and it is weathering very well.

The B&W was on my short list too but I was worried about the setback (something like 6 additional inches behind the axle) as not being enough and went with the Reese slider. I called Rickatic and spoke to him, he loves his B&W.

My setup:

Underbed Rails:


Pucks in bed:


Same one I have been running for a couple of years, holding up well.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Champ198
The Reese underbed rails fit both long/short beds. I have a short bed. There is no drilling on the frame and all holes already exist. My rails are the same ones that Ford installs at the factory, I just bought them from my RV dealer. You will need to drill four holes in the truck bed where the round indents are. Simply put the pilot hole where Ford's center punch mark is and do it!

If you look at the photo of my hitch, you will see a long straight black lever on the driver's side. This lever rod unlocks the slide on both slide rails. (we had the lever installed in the rear position by mistake when we assembled the hitch in the photo and we've corrected it - it really didn't matter and would work either way)

Before you back into your campsite, you will:
1.) pull a small pin on the hitch to release the slide lever
2.) flip the lever back to slide
3.) once inside truck, put trailer brake on lock to lock down the trailer wheels so the truck will move forward but your camper doesn't (slide the brake control lever to apply all power/gain to trailer brakes)
4.) put truck in drive and gradually and slowly inch forward
5.) the slide hitch will slide back and the rails and "lock" (hence the loud bang noise when it stops the truck)
6.) insert to the small pin back into the slide lock
7.) back into campsite

Takes no time at all and you're out of the way. If you get a manual slider, no matter the brand, practice this at home a couple of times to make sure you're comfortable and can do it in the dark if needed. If I keep my truck, I plan to get a rubber bed mat and cut out the holes for the pucks. That way I can throw firewood, blocks, whatever in there so I won't scratch the paint.

Good luck!
Thanks again! Your explanation of how it works helps a lot! I have never seen one work in person. I like the fact that it is a kit designed for the truck. And even more so when I go to drill holes in the bed!
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #9  
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I have been pulling a 36 foot Big Horn for 3 years with 2 different SB Ford's and a B&W Companion setup. The 04 truck had a B&W Turnover ball hitch installed when I got it. When I got the new truck I put a new B&W under the box and dropped my Companion into the socket. Hooked up and left for home 1000 miles away.

I have never felt handicapped by not having a slider. My Big Horn has a scalloped nose cone. I have been close to 90 degrees once just to try it out. The fiver in your attached video is an older unit with no relief built into the nose cone. If you are looking at an older unit this could be a real concern. If the fiver you are looking at has scalloped corners, a slider is not necessary. Situational awareness and staying ahead of the rig while maneuvering will keep the back window where it belongs.

I do have it in my personal operating limitations that I do not accept campsites that will cause me to crank my fiver around in a tight turn. If I have to crank it that hard, I will ask for a different site. So far, that has only happened once.

Of the three choices you have narrowed your decision to purchase, he B&W will be the least expensive setup. You will not give up any quality though. B&W hitch threads wherever I see them have 1 thing in common. I have yet to see the first owner who was not 100% satisfied with his B&W. 10 minutes is all it takes to go from hitch to empty box. The hitch separates at the Companion fifth wheel base so it is not ridiculously heavy.

While I have no personal experience with your other finalists, I have heard many owners of those products say the were quite satisfied.

Hope this helps...Good Luck
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #10  
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I have a Reese 20K two piece and like it very much other than it weighs a ton, but that's not a bad thing.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Marauder92V
Thanks again! Your explanation of how it works helps a lot! I have never seen one work in person. I like the fact that it is a kit designed for the truck. And even more so when I go to drill holes in the bed!
+1

I was thinking about installing the Highjacker AutoSlide 5th wheel hitch due to not needing an adapter plate on the trailer BUT it sounds like I don't even need an automatic slider at all. The toyhauler we are going to get has the rounded off corners and the extended pinbox. I am thinking maybe get a manual slider just in case I need to slide it to the rear but I may not have to use it as much as I figured I would.

I really like how this Reese Elite hitch looks like it is pretty easy to install myself as well. I am totally new to the 5th wheel trailers/hitches but I will have to buy and install the hitch before I purchase the trailer so I really appreciate all the good info.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by my996duc1
+1

I was thinking about installing the Highjacker AutoSlide 5th wheel hitch due to not needing an adapter plate on the trailer BUT it sounds like I don't even need an automatic slider at all. The toyhauler we are going to get has the rounded off corners and the extended pinbox. I am thinking maybe get a manual slider just in case I need to slide it to the rear but I may not have to use it as much as I figured I would.
I was really torn up trying to decide between a slider and non when I opted for the B&W hitch. Everyone I talked to who had a slider said they used it a couple of times in the first year but haven't since. They said they liked the peace of mind that the slider offers in tight turning situations.

In my first year of towing, I have been fine without the slider and have not needed it yet. Having said that, I am very conscious of where the trailer cap and truck cab is in a tight turn. If I had a slider, I wouldn't give it a second thought. I truly do appreciate the lighter weight of the B&W and the ability to get it in and out in 5 minutes by myself.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by EpicCowlick
I was really torn up trying to decide between a slider and non when I opted for the B&W hitch. Everyone I talked to who had a slider said they used it a couple of times in the first year but haven't since. They said they liked the peace of mind that the slider offers in tight turning situations.

In my first year of towing, I have been fine without the slider and have not needed it yet. Having said that, I am very conscious of where the trailer cap and truck cab is in a tight turn. If I had a slider, I wouldn't give it a second thought. I truly do appreciate the lighter weight of the B&W and the ability to get it in and out in 5 minutes by myself.
Epic -- how much weight difference are we talking about between your hitch and the Reese? I have seen your videos, how close are you in say a 80 degree turn?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:08 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Marauder92V
Epic -- how much weight difference are we talking about between your hitch and the Reese? I have seen your videos, how close are you in say a 80 degree turn?
I don't know the actual weight differences But I do know that my friend who has a slider cannot install or remove his by himself. I helped him install and electric hoist on the ceiling of his garage to lift his slider out of his Chevy.

I am able to turn my truck up to 80° but that is an inch away from impacting the cab. You also have to remember there are many variables in the hitch set up. Mine is installed in the farthest back position. The trailer also has a curved front cap which allows a sharper turn. Each truck and trailer combo is likely very different.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:24 PM
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In my experience, I know before I get close to 80 degrees...the trailer tires are twisting quite badly by then. In all the posts I have seen over on RVnet, most of the slider owners never use the slider feature...espesciallky those with scalloped front caps.
 
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