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leaf spring bushing help

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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #1  
noeld's Avatar
noeld
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leaf spring bushing help

well i have been trying to burn the rubber eye bushing out of my leaf springs no luck whats the secret ???
i have went through a big bottle of lighter fluid and had them burning for 10-15 min at one time by putting more fluid on when the fire would be going out but the bushing just well not burn ????? ineed to get thise out so can get the new ones in, help
thx noel
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:09 AM
  #2  
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Duct Tape Racing
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lighter fluid wont burn the bushing, its only burning the lighter fluid and adding more will do absolutely nothing.

Get a pneumatic hammer and pound them out
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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NumberDummy
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Burning the rubber out of the spring won't solve anything. The bushing is composed of an outer steel liner, inner rubber bushing. Burning the rubber out, the steel liner will still be in place.

The correct way to R&R leaf spring bushings is with a press. Old bushing pressed out, new bushing pressed in.

You can beat on them with a hammer and punch to get 'em out, but this is a study in futility and may ruin the spring eyes.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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Duct Tape Racing
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agree with NumberDummy

I Was just stating the garage procedure, not too many people have a press just layi around lol
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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Use a torch to burn out the rubber. If you do not have a torch, go buy the cheapest one you can find. While you have the torch on the rubber just turn the inner part of the bushing back and forth. It will come out and leave the outer steel part inside the eye. I used a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut out the outer part of the bushing. Just be careful and do not cut to far. I cut about halfway through and then used a chisel and hammer to pound it out.

Getting the new bushing in is a real pain in the @$$. You can pound on it forever and it will not go in. I had to use a large flat head screw driver to pry the spring eye open just a little and then pound the the new bushing in.

Good luck, this is a lot of work for us that do not have air tools. If you have any further questions, post them and I will try to help.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #6  
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NumberDummy
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Originally Posted by Duct Tape Racing
I was just stating the garage procedure, not too many people have a press just layi around lol
If the OP removed the springs, took 'em to an autoparts store machine shop, the old bushings could be pressed out, new bushings pressed in. Total time...about 20 minutes.

But, if not...the OP will be pounding/burning for hours on these rusty 'ol spring bushings and what will the result be? F-r-u-s-t-r-a-t-i-o-n!
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcnorthwood
Use a torch to burn out the rubber. If you do not have a torch, go buy the cheapest one you can find. While you have the torch on the rubber just turn the inner part of the bushing back and forth. It will come out and leave the outer steel part inside the eye. I used a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut out the outer part of the bushing. Just be careful and do not cut to far. I cut about halfway through and then used a chisel and hammer to pound it out.

Getting the new bushing in is a real pain in the @$$. You can pound on it forever and it will not go in. I had to use a large flat head screw driver to pry the spring eye open just a little and then pound the the new bushing in.

Good luck, this is a lot of work for us that do not have air tools. If you have any further questions, post them and I will try to help.
thx for reply that is what i was going to do but everyone acted like they were easy to burn out, the only kind of torch thing i have is one of those that has the little gas tank used for plumbing would that work ??????
thx noel
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:43 AM
  #8  
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arctic y block
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Here is how I install spring bushings without a press. Once the old one is out as previously stated. I hone the spring eye to smooth out any burrs than freeze the new bushing and use a heavy bench vice to push it in. Have the proper size socket handy to use at the last little bit to get it centered.

Note: A cheap harbor freight vice made in China prolly wont work. Use a good stout one.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by noeld
thx for reply that is what i was going to do but everyone acted like they were easy to burn out.
Where is everyone now that gave you that wild mule p!ss advice? Prolly reading the thread and keeping their traps shut.

Giving advice is one thing, actually doing the work is another.

I've found that here on FTE one person suggests something, then a whole bunch of chimer-inners say the same thing.

But...how many of the chimer-inners have any actual experience doing whatever? Not too many...they are just mimicing what the first person said.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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Mine were pretty easy to burn out but you still have the outer bushing to deal with.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #11  
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gfw1985
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Don't think a propane plumbers torch will do the job. Never tried it though. I'm very careful about heat and springs. The two do not go together. Too much heat will take the temper out of the metal making it easy to bend, not what you want.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:52 AM
  #12  
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HAHA yeah, doing it right will payoff in the long run. Instead of having a mangled, bent, leaf spring eye
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #13  
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I have taken on this job a few times, easiest way i have found is with 2 5" pieces of pipe, a long grade 8 bolt, nut and stack of washers. One piece of pipe is just big enough to fit through the eye the other big enough for the bushing to fit through. Soak the eye with rust penetrant and press through. Don't use exhaust tubing has to be rugged pipe.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #14  
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Using a torch was recommended on FTE to me about six months ago. If you take your time and do it right you will not eff up your spring (heat the rubber not the spring). Mine is still perfect six months later and I would do the same to the other side. The only problem is the job is a pain in the @$$. I am just waiting until the hanger gets a little more rusted before switching out the other side.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 06:48 PM
  #15  
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i have always used a cutting torch and it takes about 10-15 minutes to burn them out and then i use the torch to burn the sleeve out ! putting stock ones back in is a pain so it is easier to use poly bushings that dont need to be pressed in , they go in by hand ! another way if you dont have a torch is to drill lots of holes around the bushing say with a 3/16" or 1/4" bit and it will eventually come out but then you have to get the sleeve out , sawzall works and if you dont have that then get a ROUND NOSE CHISEL and cut the sleeve out by hammering a notch down one side
Wright Tool, 9625, Round Nose Chisels - ROYAL SUPPLY
 
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