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Exhaust Brake Issues

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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Exhaust Brake Issues

I have an aftermarket exhaust brake installed on my truck. I've tried to find a label for a manufacturer but couldn't. Underneath the truck on the "actuator"...Not sure if that's the correct term but there is a small yellow label that just says Exhaust Brake.

My problem is that recently the exhaust brake would stick shut even while accelerating. Sometimes it wouldn't work at all when I pulled the switch and now it's been turning on and off by itself. usually at red lights and in stopped traffic.

I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with diagnosing these things with minimal work. I'm sure I could figure it out if I went over the whole system but that's work. It sounds like a bad connection to me, I checked the connection to the "actuator" and it was good and I checked the connection on my on/off switch and that seemed good. Could it be a problem in the switch itself? It's a push/pull switch and it is the one that came from the factory I think.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Well IMHO those brakes are not good for these IDI engines. But the yellow tag you mention sounds like its a BD brake BD Exhaust Brake Ford Diesel 6.9/7.3L IDI 83-94 | eBay does it look like that??
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
Well IMHO those brakes are not good for these IDI engines. But the yellow tag you mention sounds like its a BD brake BD Exhaust Brake Ford Diesel 6.9/7.3L IDI 83-94 | eBay does it look like that??
That's definatly the brand but mine is a bit different looking.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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Is there a three wire solenoid on the brake itself?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Pat BD Power
Is there a three wire solenoid on the brake itself?
Not quite sure, I can check later.

Pretty sure there was only two cables coming out of it. I pulled the rubber housing off of the switch and there appeared to be three cables in the wire but only two were hooked up to the switch. Also the switch had three spots for a connection and the solenoid is a bit shorter and fatter then the one pictured above. Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 06:56 PM
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If you can take a picture of it and email it to pat@bd-power.com and I can identify it for sure.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pat BD Power
If you can take a picture of it and email it to pat@bd-power.com and I can identify it for sure.
Wow, done deal.

Now that's customer service!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:49 PM
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how well does it work? im thinkin about adding one to mine when i get the new turbo on.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:51 PM
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head studs are highly suggested when using an exhaust brake though due to the high back pressure. especially with the high compression our engines have. just increases the cylinder pressure to a high limit.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
head studs are highly suggested when using an exhaust brake though due to the high back pressure. especially with the high compression our engines have. just increases the cylinder pressure to a high limit.
Mine works very well as far as slowing the truck down. It can sort of be compared to gearing down a gear like from 4th to third. Its not abrupt but you can tell its doing its job. Plus the sound it makes is so friggen cool. Like if the IDI doesn't sound pissed off enough, hit the engine brake and it's like it's screaming at everyone.

Heard a bit about head studs, what exactly is the process? Like bolting the heads down better?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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well, when you use a standard head bolt, you twist the bolt while sucking it down, the twist gives false torque specs and they tend to stretch more. when you do a head stud, the stud threads into the head with no twist, then theres a nut that threads on and clamps down the head. its a straight pull on the stud, no twisting giving much better clamping force. then the addition of ARP using super hardened steel. can withstand much much higher pounds of pressure
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
well, when you use a standard head bolt, you twist the bolt while sucking it down, the twist gives false torque specs and they tend to stretch more. when you do a head stud, the stud threads into the head with no twist, then theres a nut that threads on and clamps down the head. its a straight pull on the stud, no twisting giving much better clamping force. then the addition of ARP using super hardened steel. can withstand much much higher pounds of pressure
That sounds like a mod that's right up my alley. Know where I could find the parts and how much $$$
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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depends on whatcha got. 6.9l you can go on ebay and pick up a set of ARP brand for around 290 iirc. if its a 7.3l they dont have a kit, you will have to find the bolt size and order em one by one. if you wanna go a different brand, they are $690 a set or somewhere around there. ill find the link of the site and pass it your way.

EDIT: here is the link for the parts
http://www.dps-performance.com/
they have tons of stuff for these ol idi's
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by oreocreaming
depends on whatcha got. 6.9l you can go on ebay and pick up a set of ARP brand for around 290 iirc. if its a 7.3l they dont have a kit, you will have to find the bolt size and order em one by one. if you wanna go a different brand, they are $690 a set or somewhere around there. ill find the link of the site and pass it your way.

EDIT: here is the link for the parts
Diesel Performance Specialists, Inc. - The Diesel Performance Specialists
they have tons of stuff for these ol idi's
Sweet thanks man. A bit pricey but worth it's especially since I plan on a turbo upgrade soon.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 12:08 AM
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yep, you will wanna do 2 things when you get the studs. 1 get a new intake gasket, 2. do at 3-5 coats of spray on copper spray on the gasket surface. that will help prevent any blow outs.
 
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