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Old May 31, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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Can't get ahead....

I just went though my whole engine valley with new o-rings, new fuel line seals cleaned everything spotless. New hpop, new ipr, and new ICP a couple of weeks ago. Now my intake plenums decide to start leaking badly. So as I am investigating that I see oil in the valley and it led me to the back of my new hpop and its leaking out of the back plate where the snap ring is. At least I can get it warrantied but now I get to do everything again. I also have new intake plenums, billet inserts and all new CAC botts on the way from Clay.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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Where did you get the HPOP from?
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by 88f1504x4
I just went though my whole engine valley with new o-rings, new fuel line seals cleaned everything spotless. New hpop, new ipr, and new ICP a couple of weeks ago. Now my intake plenums decide to start leaking badly. So as I am investigating that I see oil in the valley and it led me to the back of my new hpop and its leaking out of the back plate where the snap ring is. At least I can get it warrantied but now I get to do everything again. I also have new intake plenums, billet inserts and all new CAC botts on the way from Clay.
OUCH! I feel your pain brother, just did the SAME repair (intake). Have you done the CCV mod? If not, is there a chance the oil on the HPOP is being "blown" on there from your intake leaks? I had a film of oil in my valley too. Make certain you use OE FORD TA-31 to reseal those intake plenums.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 10:15 PM
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I called clay to order the modded 17 and he just sold his last one and wasn't going to have any until the following week so I bit the bullet and tried pensacola diesel since they are somewhat local and I needed my truck. I just did my ccv a couple of weeks ago and haven't gotten around to flush my intercooler yet. That is this weekends project. Could that still be from the intake leak? It looks like it is seaping around the snap ring on the pump and puddling up on the ridge. I wiped it down and drove 5 miles and it was puddled up in there again. Do I have to remove my turbo to do the intake? If I do can I get away with reusing the o-rings and bolts which are just 3 weeks old?
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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I forgot to add... I don't think I am meant to have a clean engine valley. I once spent a whole day cleaning it and 2 days later the rear hpop drain o-ring went out. A month later cleaned it again 3 days later hp oil line let go. A month after that ebv started leaking and turbo went out. This year last month cleaned it put the hpx on was completely tight on one side covered it again, I cleaned it yet again and now this. I am getting pretty good at scrubbing all the nooks and crannies now lol
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 88f1504x4
I called clay to order the modded 17 and he just sold his last one and wasn't going to have any until the following week so I bit the bullet and tried pensacola diesel since they are somewhat local and I needed my truck.

Pensacola diesel doesn't have a very good reputation. I would see if you can get your money back and save yourself another possible headache. Do a google search on them and you should find reviews.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 06:56 AM
  #7  
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From: Fort Campbell, KY
Originally Posted by 88f1504x4
Do I have to remove my turbo to do the intake? If I do can I get away with reusing the o-rings and bolts which are just 3 weeks old?
No , the turbo must come off. You don't want to 1/2 A$$ the intake job, to much work. I just told myself I'm doing this ONCE, so everything came off the top of the engine, to include the fuel filter assembly. If your doing you HPOP too, that would be even better, but I left mine on. Makes cleaning the passenger side head more difficult because the bottom bolt closest the front does not come out, so you'll have to clean around it.

Take your time removing the intakes, they are cheezy stamped steel and hard to straighten out if you tweak one. Mine almost fell off so no big deal.

Look for rust and debris at your quick connects when you remove these lines. They should also be greased prior to re-installation.
<table style="width:194px;"><tbody><tr><td style="height:194px;background:url(<a href=" https:="" picasaweb.google.com="" s="" c="" transparent_album_background.gif"="" target="_blank" align="center">HPOP line Album</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px">High Pressue Oil Lines</td></tr></tbody></table>

<table style="width:194px;"><tbody><tr><td style="height:194px;background:url(<a href=" https:="" picasaweb.google.com="" s="" c="" transparent_album_background.gif"="" target="_blank" align="center">Intake R&R Album</td></tr><tr><td style="text-align:center;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:11px">R&R Intake Plenums</td></tr></tbody></table>

I would reuse the O-rings for the turbo, just do diligence R&R'ing so you don't damage them. Also, for reassembly, I like to grease everything up with high temp caliper grease so nothing gets pinched.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tdpower
Pensacola diesel doesn't have a very good reputation. I would see if you can get your money back and save yourself another possible headache. Do a google search on them and you should find reviews.
What he said ^^^^. Just adds to their reputation
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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Yea I'm not a big fan of them but I was in a jam. My boss said he has used 4 of there pumps on customers vehicles with no problem. So I figured I would give them a try. Thanks for the tips Casper. I'm getting pretty quick at pulling the fuel bowl and turbo out lol. Practice makes perfect.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 88f1504x4
Yea I'm not a big fan of them but I was in a jam. .
I not sure what they do. Just seen a lot of complaints about rebuilt injectors not working right. Maybe they just Church up the cores a little.....
 
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