is there anything i should take into consideration when im doing the swap??

please feel free to tell me your secrets lol

 

The one thing that I missed, that left me kinda hanging, is that if you go with the coil from the Duraspark era, the coil to distributor cap wire will be different.

Also, if I remember right, the wire for the electric choke on the feedback setup comes from the wiring harness, whereas on the Duraspark it comes from the alternator, so be sure to get that set up correctly when you're all done.

Otherwise, it was super simple.

 

Okay so today me and my girlfriend's brother finished the swap its running great although with the old TFI setup it kinda use throw me back into my seat at WOT in 1st and 2nd gear, and with the duraspark II setup it doesn't do that it kinda takes its time.. Does anyone know what it may be, and another does anyone know the timing for the duraspark setup??

please let me know ASAP!

thanks again guys for all your help

 

Did you hook up a vacuum line to the distributor's vacuum advance? You can try both the ported or the full manifold vacuum.

Also, do you have a vacuum gauge? What vacuum does it read at idle when you connect it to direct manifold vacuum?

The best way to do timing is with a vacuum gauge.

-Disconnect the vacuum advance and cap it at the carb, (so it doesn't leak).
-Hook up the vacuum gauge to direct manifold vacuum.
-Then, loosen the hold down bolt for the distributor.
-Advance the distributor until the engine's vacuum signal won't increase anymore.
-Retard the distributor until the engine's vacuum signal sits 2hg below the peak you were able to get. So, if you were able to get it up to 20hg, back it down to 18.

That should get you your best timing.


Lastly, are you still using the feedback carb? Or did you get a Duraspark II era carb? (Or aftermarket?)

 

thanks bronco! I have the duraspark II era carb on it now could that be the problem of it bogging i guess you could say?

Could you even time it with a timing light im not sure if my girlfriends brother has vaccum gauge? But i know for sure he has a timing light.

 

The Duraspark II era carb is what you want. If you had the feedback one, you wouldn't be able to set the fuel mixtures since it's designed to have those done with the computer.

I'd highly recommend a vacuum gauge, even if you have to go pick one up. They're the best tuning tool money can buy. If you do, set your idle mixture screw to get the best vacuum reading possible as well.

If it still bogs, it may be jetted for emissions and is running a little lean. You might need a size or two larger main jet.

Have you rebuilt the carb you put on? Sure it is fully working and the accelerator pump is good?


You can definitely set it with a light. Stock is 6° advance, but you'd probably do better with around 10°. If it pings under acceleration, back it down a degree or two.


It's also possible your bog may just go away with the correct timing.

Best of luck!

 

thanks bronco for the GREAT info man!!! really appreciated dude!!!

 

The dizzy might have to be recurved. Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index

 

Another reason for the lack luster power is the advance curve built into them. The D spark is set to give a ton of advance over a slow & gradual rpm. Here's what woke mine up, and what I do for all my Ford buddies. Pull out the light spring from the old points dizzy, and replace the heavy spring in the D spark dizzy with the lighter one. This will make your power come in hard around 2-3k rpm. It doesnt stop there. When you go into it, bend the tabs that hold the springs so they are stretched a little bit. One more thing; look at the weights. There's a guide that rubs a stopper for max advance. Make sure the smaller number is the one being used in the rubber stopper. It'll be stamped with a number and either an R or an L. If it's not, then you'll get way too much total advance, like up into the 50+*. I got a couple pix of mine. It's been 3 years since I did it. The last one shows what it looks like if you have to flip it to the other set of advance stops. You can see the 2 sizes of slots on the outer most of the unit. Dont be intimidated! If you do go thru the work to flip it to the other slot, you'll have to re-do your timing, because it'll be 180* out. These pix are actually of my points dizzy, but the same effect applies there. In the middle picture note the needle nose getting the tiny snap ring that holds it all in.

 

Those are better instructions than what I did. You beat me to it.

 

wow guys thanks for the info i think ill try this tomorrow after i get outta work!

thanks much again!

 

sooo guess what fellas!!!!

i got my truck time nice and good and my bog is gone!!! Thanks AB for the much needed help!

thanks all of you guys and gals for helping me threw this swap!!! Now go get my efi mani's and offy manifold is a different story!

 

Heya Fordboy,
Glad to hear it! Nothing quite like a properly tuned engine to set you back in your seat.

 

Thanks alot dude i swear this duraspark 2 setup is the best thing ever man now it pulls me in all four gear not like a v8, but wow it really woke my six big time. Im gonna change the cap and rotor today becuz i dont know when was the last time it was changed.

 

The funny thing is, when it's all working correctly, the TFI EEC system will run just as good, and typically gets 1-3 MPG better on the hiway. But all it takes is 1 minor hiccup to really throw that system out of whack. The additional MPG comes from the computer leaning the carb out, while the non-computer carb is always going to be slightly rich during light throttle cruise conditions.