okay, at the bggining of this week i parked my truck after having run some errands, when i came back out it would turn over but it wouldnt start.
after a few days of toiling i came to the conclusion it wasnt getting any spark, after witnessing the fact it had no spark of course.
replaced the coil= nuthin, cap and rotor=nuthing, finaly i replaced the pickup coil and ignition module and SUCCESS!! it ran after teaking the distributor i got it running smoooooth and it pulled hard in all gears

so whats the problem you ask. i just went to go to my local scrap yard and when i got to the end of my street (thank god thats when it happend) the truck started running funny the whole damn thing started to shake and it died, i got it restarted and it idled smooth but when i when to give it gas it did the same thing shook violently and died. got it restarted and managed to get it back to my house, when i got it there it was idleing fine shut it off, and again not its not starting and its not getting spark

i did manage to get a couple of codes off of it KOEO of course seeing as i cant start it.

CODE 18: SPOUT CIRCUIT OPEN OR SPARK ANGLE WORD FALIURE/IDM circuit failure or spout circuit grounded. code 18 has two different senarios i guess
CODE:33 egr valve opening not detected

what the heck is going on!!!! i mean the other day i bumped the distributor over a little more and it smoothed out, (it was smooth before but when it was bone cold id have to start it then it would die, then start it again and it would run fine) after tweaking that wasnt a problem any more. drove it all day yesterday, no problems it seemed to be hotter than normal under the hood but the temp gauge said she was running cooler than before the distributor rebuild, and our enonoline has the same motor drove it the day before and the upper hose was no hotter than mine. i put the new coil in before i replaced the module and pickup coil could that have killed it (the coil) could my minor adjustment of the distributor have killed the brand new module and pick up coil? or could it just be a cheap duralast module,coil and pickup coil? please i need help im not going to surrender this to a shop i dont have that option, and i need my truck!!!

89 ford bronco, 5.0 302 v8, m5od 5 speed

 

hey i just read tha the ignition modules tend to fail in extreme heat is there a way to move the module to a cooler location? or convert to the fender mounted unit?

 

Id check for pinched wiring or burnt wiring first. Checkvfor timing chain slack maybe?

 

Gentlemen, this is a prime example of the Codes giving you ALL the information you need to deal with the problem. There is no guesswork to be worrying with here. The answers are right in front of you. The stalling and dying has to do with Code 33. ONLY! And chances are, the problem either truly is a failed EGR valve or a lack of vacuum supply to it.

Code 18 is left over from the failure of the PIP sensor. Since you made no mention of having cleared codes, Code 18 is still caught in the computer's memory because it was never cleared. This also means the computer still "thinks" its a problem. Clear ALL Codes when you have dealt with the next paragraph and BEFORE driving the truck again.

With that said, make absolutely certain that the vacuum supply to the EGR valve is not damaged. The test for a failed or non-opening EGR valve requires supplying vacuum to it directly and observing that the pintle is indeed lifting out of the seat in the bottom of the valve. if the valve DOES open with an external vacuum source, check the vacuum line from the EVR. If the line is good, AND the EGR valve is truly opening, replace the EVP sensor atop the EGR valve. The EVP sensor is the trigger for EGR-related Codes anyway.

 

i checked the wiring and i didnt see any frays or anything, ill double triple check tommorow guess ill have to cut the loom open.
i think it was more or less the module ill find out tommorow when i replace it again if it really was or not
i actually just read that ford had a problem in the past with the modules overheating and failing
the module i used was a duralast module, the motor craft one is 120 bucks and i just dont have that to lose at the moment if the next one fails though ill have to find a way to suck it up
id like to find a way to keep the lil darlin cooler or relocate it away from the nice hot engine block

 

Don't go cutting open the loom... READ. The problem is not as severe as the "Guessing Gamers" would have you think!

 

See i didnt think egr because i had the same egr code too but never had this problem?

 

hmmm heres the thing when this happened the first time there were no codes alls i pulled was 1's across the board which means system normal, pickup coil and module had failed before the computer had a chance to pick up on it and the egr valve seemed to be working fine 3 days ago
i am gonna be replaceing the module and pickup coil again tommorow im just hoping that it starts again if it does ill have the problem pin pointed from what ive searched online it seems as though the modules just let go when it gets above 270 degrees and it has been rather hot the past few days

 

lets say it is the module getting to hot, is there a way to keep it cooler or move it away from the heat source?

 

okay so, fixed the bronco today, heres what happened, went out got the stuff to rebuild the distributor again, rebuilt it, installed it, and no change. so i decided that mabey the coil was bad mabey i got a bad unit and thats happened before, went through 6 duralast alternators in my dodge van before i got one that works, so, i had them order a new unit, they said would be in at 6, it was 2 so i had time to kill.
went to the scrap yard to try and find one to see if that was actually the problem, but i couldnt get one, caught a bunch of tadpoles for my lil bro though!

went back to the house and started going through the wiring harness. couldnt find anything around the distributor or cpu connectors finally i went to check the coil connector for continuity basically i stcuk one probe it the port of the connector and then pierced the wire casing to see if the connector was getting electrical flow from down the wire up to the pin inside the plastic connector. well the meter said i wasnt but i couldnt be sure i was pierceing the wire casing hard enough, they toughen up with age. so i went to go strip the casing in the center to expose the copper a little for a better reading. when i did i discovered the problem, pulled the wire right out of the pin all the copper had corroded and the only thing making contact with the pin was the wire casing. so i cut out the connector and used some spade terminals to replace it and that did the trick

so in all actuality it was in fact the ageing wire harness