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Rear sway bar install on a F350 with 20” wheels! (Pictures)

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Old 04-17-2012, 09:59 PM
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Does anyone know what are the torque specs for these bolts? I would like to do the install tomorrow.

Thanks
 
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:28 AM
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I couldn't find any torque values. I'd say make them "good-n-tight", it almost impossible to get to the nut behind the DEF tank so you'd likely not get a torque wrench on that one anyway.
 
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:19 PM
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Here are the Torque Specs for the Rear Suspension. My Ford Dealer printed this off for me.

Name:  2012FordSuperDutyRearSuspensionTorqueSpecs.jpg
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I'm going to buy the 2012 F-Super Duty (F-250 Thru F-550) Service Information CD-ROM from Helms for 170.00. This is the FSMs for the truck.
 
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by paul100
I couldn't find any torque values. I'd say make them "good-n-tight", it almost impossible to get to the nut behind the DEF tank so you'd likely not get a torque wrench on that one anyway.
Paul, I was able to get my 3/8s Craftsman torque wrench up in there.

After looking at the pictures at the beginning of this thread, I noticed that the 2012 Frame has an extra set of holes. I almost screwed this up.


I removed the bolts holding the bracket in front of the DEF Tank, by doing this i was able to get plenty of room to move around in there.

All in all took me about 1.5 hrs to complete.
 
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Old 04-18-2012, 03:42 PM
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WK15....Thank you for posting the torque specs...!
 
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Big-Sarge
WK15....Thank you for posting the torque specs...!
No problem.
 
  #82  
Old 05-02-2012, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Big-Sarge
I have no idea...you buy a $50-60K truck and it doesn't come with a rear sway bar...but a 1500 Dodge Ram truck does? Ford should at least give customers the option. Same thing with a large fuel tank, Ford knows 60 percent of the people who buy a diesel truck are going to pull things..they need a large fuel tank....OFFER one!! Sorry...I got sided tracked.
Agreed! Give us the option if we want to put it on the truck.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:14 AM
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Thanks for the great directions!

We installed last week, made a BIG difference unloaded, I can't hardly wait to hook up my camper and see how it tows now

ONE TIP - We found it easier (on my 6.2 Gas SB) to leave the driver's side link disconnected from the sway bar while installing.........holding the inside frame-rail bolt (the one that is a PITA to reach) in place with a gear-wrench, and literally moving the link itself to tighten the bolt against the rachet..... (if that makes sense). Then once it was all tight, to connect the link to the sway bar. Super time saver

Cheers!~
 
  #84  
Old 03-15-2013, 09:16 AM
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Anyone else do this modification?
 
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:51 AM
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I just did this as well for my '13 F-350. I didn't have many km's on it prior, but it is definitely tighter. We have a '12 without it to compare to, chances are not for long though!

The part numbers were bang on, installed in no time - I did it while my tank was out during the Titan swap. I ended up using the end link like a ratchet too.

Thanks gentlemen!
 
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:17 AM
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I have all the parts sitting in my garage, now just waiting for a warm, sunny day to put them on.
 
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:20 PM
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Is this the right part number W707492S439?
Not getting anything on them.
 
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:42 PM
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:58 PM
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OK, thanks. The dash had me confused.
 
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:40 AM
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First off, thanks to everyone for contributing information in this thread! The part numbers and other info are great. Now to add my own...

So if you have the 5th wheel prep, expect it to be damn near impossible to get the nut on the driver's side link tightened enough -- maybe even without the hitch, but that steel frame in there results in almost no clearance between your hand and the DEF tank. The other nuts are a 5 minute job, but you'll spend another 20-30 just getting 30 ft/lb of wrench torque on the driver's nut. I chose not to use the end link like a ratchet FWIW, could have worked I guess but to each their own.

Seeing that Ford wants 76 ft/lb on there, I knew I was nowhere close from what little I could squeeze into the wrench with my hand. At that point I decided to kick my buddy at Factory Trained Auto Repair in Arvada, CO (former Ford diesel tech along with his employees) a few bucks to put the truck up on his lift and just do it right.

The first thing he did was drop the rear end of the drive shaft. I wouldn't have thought to do that, but took him 30 seconds to pull the 4 bolts and gave a lot more room for what was next. Then he took some bolts out of the DEF tank and loosened another, allowing it to drop down enough to get a ratchet extension over the top of the tank and onto the nut. From there it's easy to torque the nut.

I got a picture of his wrench over the DEF tank, can't see where to attach it to the thread but if you'd like it, let me know. It was worth the effort to get this done, I was having a clunk sound over turns with suspension flex because of that not being fully tightened. He estimated I got about 30 ft/lb with the wrench, so it wasn't going anywhere but not real close either. The nut wouldn't back off, however this will also prevent it from notching out that hole later on.

Anyway just food for thought, since it's clear to me that Ford doesn't install that link with the DEF tank fully in place. Do it right, the extra cost was minimal. You can certainly lower the DEF tank (and even pull the driveshaft rear end if you're so inclined) yourself, or just find a friendly shop to get it done quickly. Do torque it all down properly though.
 


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