Stock components with factory calibrations or tuned?
Do you have the ability to check for DTCs?
What's the truck reported battery voltage?

If your truck has been through weight loss of select components, are all of the unplugged electrical connectors protected from moisture?

 

No as far as i know it is completely stock and on stock tune from the dealer. There has been no removed components at all and im not sure what the reported battery voltage is I have an ohm reader I can check the voltage in the am because the truck doesn't have a battery gage or any info displaying that info. It was running great and this morning it just started acting funny and is stuck in 5th gear The orange wrench light came on the display for a short time and then dissaleared. No change in anything when the wrench dissapeared. Starts sometimes regularly but more often then not nowbthroughout the day the only way it starts is if the brake is depressed.

 

Since it's stock and if battery voltage is good and if you need/want to try something, I'd recommend disconnecting both batteries for several hours to force a reset. It's what I would do in this situation if I didn't have a scan tool. A transmission relearn is quite an annoying process but I don't think that'll be necessary once you restore power.

This will also (negatively) purge the useful trouble codes that are likely in history for a tech to review but if there is a TCM or hardware issue, those DTCs will likely return anyways.

If I remember correctly, TSB 11-7-10 doesn't apply related to bad shift solenoids since you have a 2012 6R140 build. I had a lot of shift issues with my early 2011, gears 2-3 issues mostly but it did get stuck in 5th a few times but restart or full stop would fix unlike your current situation. I still have occasional issues, for example last week towing my tractor in D it shifted from 2nd to N (I was accelerating so followed by high RPMs) and refused to shift to third or back to second. I had to stop, it jerked into 1st and then was fine after that...

 

alright that's all good info I disconnected both batteries yesterdyesterday to force a reset but it was only for about am hour and the check engine light was still on as soon as I re connected the batteries with the same issue , ill try to disconnect for multiple hours and see if that gets me anywhere I have a guy coming with a good computer diagnostic system today to pull the codes as well ill keep you posted thanks !!

 

Got it fixed guys, so I brought it back to the dealer and apparently the tcm went and they replaced it and shes back to great now . Thanks

 

[QUOTE=12strokesaday;20142611]Got it fixed guys, so I brought it back to the dealer and apparently the tcm went and they replaced it and shes back to great now . Thanks[/Q

 

The same thing happened to me yesterday. Pulled into the store (everything fine) turn the truck off came back out, started the truck up and put it in R, it clunked harder than usual but didn’t think much of it. I backed up and when I shifted into D it clunked again. I thought WTH! Went to drive out of the parking lot and noticed it was having a hard time going. Looked down and it was in 5 and could not get it to come no matter what I did. Shut the truck off and started it back up with the same thing, stuck in 5. Let the truck sit over night and when I started it up this morning and shifted to D it was in 1, let the truck warm up for 30mins and when I went back out and shifted to D it went to 5 and won’t come out. After reading this thread I guess I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s the TCM (what ever that is). Can anyone tell me the cost to fix this problem? Thanks in advance!!

 

how did you make out with this? I realize that this post is almost a year old- but my 2012 xlt did the same thing to me yesterday..

trying a few sites to see what some others think.

I was hauling a dump trailer yesterday. Everything was working as it should. I stopped at the scale house to weigh the load then pulling away truck worked really hard to get moving ( like a parking break or trailer breaks were stuck on) then noticed that the gauge cluster where gears are displayed shows 5th illuminated while stopped. I cannot manually select any other gear with the +- button on the shift lever. Moving through "M" it doesn't light up. 2 and 1 in their selections do light up but there is no change to the driving of the truck ( still labors and sluggish start). Reverse works correct but has a harder "clunk" when dropping into R and back to D. Truck was operating at temp ( normal ranges) all day with no issues before this sudden onset. Tried shutting it off and restarting but no change. Is drive-able in 5th ( enough to get it home) unhooked trailer and disconnected batteries with ignition on to do a "reset" and no change. Truck has about 320500 km had a tune installed 2 years ago with a very mild tow tune (40-50 hp gain) no issues until now. Using a my scan tool I'm getting the following:
1 accessory protocol interface module code - U 3000
3 transmission control module codes - P0961 ( Status confirmed/pending - pressure control solenoid "A" control circuit range/performance: no sub type information), P1636 (Status: MIL/confirmed/Pending - no sub type information), U0422 (Status MIL/Confirmed/pending - invalid data received from body control module: no sub type information)

pulled the trans fluid dip stick - lots of fluid- light brown color due for a flush and filter. There is no obvious fluids underneath around the transmission/ Torqconv.

Any help out there on what to do next? This is my daily work horse and don\t feel I should be driving it anywhere more than I absolutely need to while its stuck in 5th gear.
thanks

 

Howdy guys,

Bumping this old thread to see if there is any more insight to this issue.
My truck would do it occasionally in 2011 but an H&S trans tune update made it go away for about 10 years LOL.

I don't drive the truck much anymore accept to haul water but is started happening approx winter 2021 again.
Seemed like if I let the truck warm up for a long time (like an hour) and re booted it then it would go into 1st.
It has only gotten worse since then. It will do it when it is warm(ish) outside now. And it does not want to go into R either and clunks really hard when it does.
Once it's warmed up it seems to be fine...

I have done as much google research as I can.
Some say low on fluid will cause this, it was on full, I added a quart, now it is a quart over full.... no change.
Some say it is a "tune" of program issue. Have tried FORD tune and H&S one that has worked for 10 years and an older H&S one ... no change.
Some say it is a TCM connection issue.... the gear number lights are on so the TCM must be connected.
Some say the TCM itself, I have no way to test that but there are no TCP DTC's.

I am thinking it is most likely a "valve body" issue (shift valves) so I guess I will put a re built transmission in the old girl ... but I would hate to do that and still have the same problem.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Update: A new transmission fixed this issue for me.

 

Just curious but how many miles on the trans that was pulled?

 

320,000 km (200,000 miles)

 

You buy new and you ever drop the pan fluid and refill at all?

 

I did buy the truck new in the summer of 2010.
I did change the transmission fluid once around 100,000 miles but I don't think I dropped the pan, I think I just changed the fluid (I can't remember).

The transmission dealer here does not stock ready to go transmissions of this particular model. He only stock cores and re builds when he gets an order.
That is why it took 2 weeks to get it.
He says they are a "very robust" transmission and he does not sell very many of them.
I do not have a cause for the short life of this one.

 

From what I've read, the 6R140 trans had more clutches in their packs in the 11 to 14s than the 15s up... don't know how true as I'm not a transmission rebuilder or mechanic, but I'm definitely not a fan of long OCIs when it comes to transmissions... I had a 96 F250 w/ a E4OD that lasted at least almost 92k miles with commercial plowing under it's belt... I say at least because when it was removed for the core, it was still functioning, though had a lot of clutch glitter in it... added a bigger trans cooler, etc.. and had a two way valve set up that before every plow season, I would have someone start it, shift thru the gears and dump at least 8 qts, not quite sure but did have an extra capacity B&M pan on it. When it started to spit air, shut off the truck. Dumped fresh ATF in and did it again... even though the E4OD was not a good transmission, I made it last that long with extra cooling and frequent fluid changes through some snow storms over the years in Buffalo.

My point is this, you have two popular Ford Tech YouTubers who say to not follow the factory maintenance schedule when it comes to the transmissions. My truck, not used commercially for plowing, has had 3 pan drops and fresh fluid, and 2 filter changes. When I do the trans, I drain and refill the transfer case. I did that with my 96 as well. I'm just overkill... I'm not saying that definitively that the 100k mile fluid change had to do with the failure, but the filter should have definitely been changed. That's just me and my 2 cents.