Pre-Worked Snow Plow SD's
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Junior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Central Arkansas
Pre-Worked Snow Plow SD's
Would you purchase a used truck that was used as a snow plow? I'm asking because I think I want a F350 SC SB SRW 4WD and almost all used SD's are northern trucks that most likely have been used as such.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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I bought mine just as you described and had to replace the ball joints and tie rod ends soon after I got it.
I knew tha going in so it was no suprise.
I got the truck for a great price so the added cost wasn't bad.
I also put a 4 inch Icon lift on it since the front springs were pretty well shot from the plow days but again I had planned to do that anyway.
I don't think there's anything wrong with buying a truck that had a plow just have the truck looked over by a mechanic you trust and be prepared to do some front end work.
Rob
I knew tha going in so it was no suprise.
I got the truck for a great price so the added cost wasn't bad.
I also put a 4 inch Icon lift on it since the front springs were pretty well shot from the plow days but again I had planned to do that anyway.
I don't think there's anything wrong with buying a truck that had a plow just have the truck looked over by a mechanic you trust and be prepared to do some front end work.
Rob
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Western Connecticut
Be selective when buying the truck. Some have been worked longer and harder than others. The major concern is RUST. I have destroyed 4 trucks in 17 years due to corrosion, not mechanical wear. Plow trucks have to be maintained more often then a non-plow truck. That can be a good thing. I looked at maybe fifty F350's before finding my last one. It's a 2006 Lariat that has a Fisher MM II plow that has more faded yellow paint on it then wear. The prior owner barely used it. I paid a premium for such a truck, but it's exactly what I wanted.
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Junior User
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From: Central Arkansas
I would not be using the SD for plowing snow in the south. What kind of signs would I look for that would indicate that the truck was used for plowing assuming that the plow was removed?
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Western Connecticut
First, more rust than usual, especially on the curb side where most of the salty run-off lies. Check the exhaust manifold for heavily flaked\rusted studs etc. Another dead giveaway is by looking into the front wheel wells and along the frame behind the bumper is where the plow frame bracket mounts. You will tell if there has been a recently removed plow setup because the frame will show an outline of where it was bolted. You have to see a few to know what I mean. Any plow controls left in the cab, or holes where they mounted on the dashboard are another obvious sign. If you have no intention of plowing due to where you live, possibly re-think a potential plow truck altogether. You might want to buy a truck owned down south...period.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Fort Worth
All used SDs in Louisiana are northern plow trucks? Really? Drive on over to Texas and we can get you a Texas truck with no rust.
If you do buy an previous plow truck, plan to replace at least ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and end links, and some new leaf springs.
If you do buy an previous plow truck, plan to replace at least ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and end links, and some new leaf springs.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Maryville (Mur Vul), TN
It is my understanding that some splash guards under the front have to be removed to install a plow. My buddy could barely open his hood due to rust after plowing just his drive for a few years. Buy as new as you can buy, and if you can't tell take it to a good mechanic, he or she will be able to tell. Good luck....
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Southwest WA
Unit bearings
Just would like to add my own recent experience:
I bought a pretty nice looking 1999 F-350 4x4 DRW Crewcab PSD last month at a pretty good price, but now it turns out that the passenger side front unit bearing (wheel bearing) is getting noisy and needs to be replaced ASAP!
I have checked out Spyntec and Dynatrac bearing conversion kits and it looks like it will cost from $1600 to $2100 just for the parts...that was not included in my F-350 budget
I am aware that a replacement unit bearing would cost less, but that would be only a short term solution (especially in a dually).
So, check out the front wheel bearing type & condition, before buying a new used truck !
PS. My 1984 F-250 4x4 is still doing fine with it's original "old style" serviceable front wheel bearings.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Central Arkansas
No! Almost all used 350 SDs I have looked at in Louisiana are CC LB DRW/SRW, same for Texas. I want a SC SB 4WD SRW preferably with a 7.3. Most of the ones listed close by are 5.4 2WD. Not gonna pull a 13k 5er, at least not with me at the wheel.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Southern Colorado
I would go out of my way to avoid a plow truck for non-plowing use, and no one has mentioned the transmission and linkage wear, from going back and forth, plowing.
The 'right' truck, privately owned, might be ok, but any ex-fleet truck, unless they can show recent significant repairs or maintenance, should be avoided.
The 'right' truck, privately owned, might be ok, but any ex-fleet truck, unless they can show recent significant repairs or maintenance, should be avoided.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Fort Worth
If you are going to pull a 5th wheel, you need a long bed anyway. Moreover, the F-350s were only available with a long bed (except for fleets) until 2008 I believe. That goes for regular cab, SuperCab, and crew cab. You can get a 250 in that configuration, but will likely be a 5.4 as those were only really used as fleet trucks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
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From: Central Kansas
I would have to disagree w/ your fleet truck comment. I've got 2 trucks that were fleets, my old 95 F150 which was a utility company truck that I put 75,000miles on and the only non routine item was a seal between the transmission and transfer case - and I'd had it 3yrs before that started leaking. My "new" 2005 was an oil/gas company fleet truck and it's been good so far. Had to replace an injector but that was a common problem on that year and Ford covered it. There's some little things but nothing major yet in the 3,000 miles I've had it. I would argue they're just as good as a privately owned maybe even better b/c they should have had better maintenance. I'm talking about large fleets here, w/ in house mechanics.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Western Connecticut
Why would you 'need' a long bed truck. That's purely preference. There are plenty of drivers that prefer a short bed and use slider hitches. I personally wouldn't want a CC long bed to drive around daily when I'm not towing. The beast would be 30ft long. 
A little tough to navigate into parking spots etc.
A little tough to navigate into parking spots etc.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Fort Worth
Why would you 'need' a long bed truck. That's purely preference. There are plenty of drivers that prefer a short bed and use slider hitches. I personally wouldn't want a CC long bed to drive around daily when I'm not towing. The beast would be 30ft long. A little tough to navigate into parking spots etc.
A little tough to navigate into parking spots etc.