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Also try turning castle nut upside down and screw it on then give that some hits with hammer so u don't gum up any threads
Very good point there. Also the nut will prevent the tie rod, or pitman arm, from smacking you in the face/head when it pops off.
If you have a good pitman arm puller, it should come off in the truck no problem. Otherwise you have to figure out a way to clamp the box down when you go to tighten the puller. Tighten it up good, smack lightly with a hammer, retighten and smack again if needed. The right sized puller will do the tie rods without damaging the rubber seals like a pickle fork would.
While under there check out all the tie rods to make sure they are still in good shape. Since you said you were wheeling, check to see that they aren't bent either. I did a number on my drag link a few weeks ago when I accidentally hit a stump.. it wasn't pretty.
Very good point there. Also the nut will prevent the tie rod, or pitman arm, from smacking you in the face/head when it pops off.
If you have a good pitman arm puller, it should come off in the truck no problem. Otherwise you have to figure out a way to clamp the box down when you go to tighten the puller. Tighten it up good, smack lightly with a hammer, retighten and smack again if needed. The right sized puller will do the tie rods without damaging the rubber seals like a pickle fork would.
While under there check out all the tie rods to make sure they are still in good shape. Since you said you were wheeling, check to see that they aren't bent either. I did a number on my drag link a few weeks ago when I accidentally hit a stump.. it wasn't pretty.
Ya, just saying don't waste your time fighting with it upside down when you are at a disadvantage, you are taking the box off anyways, so why not fight it in a vise and/or in any angle you want? It ain't coming off without a fight.
Ya, just saying don't waste your time fighting with it upside down when you are at a disadvantage, you are taking the box off anyways, so why not fight it in a vise and/or in any angle you want? It ain't coming off without a fight.
Reading that again, you're right. Although if you aren't replacing the tie rods, you can leave that attached and just disconnect the pitman arm from the box.
What I should maybe say is that if you don't have a sturdily mounted vice that will fit the steering box, it might be easier to at least loose up the nut while its on the truck. Especially if you don't have an impact. The first time I took one off I didn't have an impact, or a socket that fit. Ended up using a pipe wrench with a 3 foot pipe on the end of it, and even then it was a bitch to loosen.
its easier to remoce the tie rod from the pitman arm, i just loosen the nut and hit the side of the pitman arm with a hammer untill the taper breaks, useing a fork usually screws the boot and hitting the stud usually f's the threads. as for the lock nut, i sues a 1 5/16 3/4 inch drive socket and impact, spun it right off
I bought a rebuilt steering gear from Autozone. The first one was defective (steered like **** in one direction and good the other direction), so had to repeat the entire procedure with another rebuild from Autozone. The second one was good.
as for the fluid, alot of people are running ATF in favor of power steering fluid, im actually running ISO 68 Hydro fluid in mine.
I was in a sticky situation once, long story short I used dot 3 brake fluid and it worked very well. Once I made it home I drained it all out. Could that cause any problems?