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I had to use an electric impact gun/wrench to remove the bolt. Even with the transmission in gear and the parking brake set, I still couldn't get the bolt off. Maybe a cheater bar will help, but you still may move the truck and still not get the bolt to budge.
I put a pipe on the end of my socket & wrench. I also used the harmonic balance puller to hold the socket wrench on the bolt. The pipe laid on the side wall over the passenger wheel and I cranked the engine for a split second. The bolt was loosey goosey when I went back to check on it.
I leave all the belts connected and just remove the fan and shroud and then break with a 1/2 socket with short extension, with cheater bar. I think it is a 24mm socket.
I leave all the belts connected and just remove the fan and shroud and then break with a 1/2 socket with short extension, with cheater bar. I think it is a 24mm socket.
I think mine was a 7/8" socket. I had already taken out all the other pumps and pullies. I wasn't gonna put this back on. But that helps to crack that large nut off? (to leave all the accessories tied down?)
I think mine was a 7/8" socket. I had already taken out all the other pumps and pullies. I wasn't gonna put this back on. But that helps to crack that large nut off? (to leave all the accessories tied down?)
It's always worked for me and I have rebuilt several engines. I usually do this first if I know it's got to come off eventually. The belts and other accessories help keep it from turning. Also make sure you leave the plugs in the motor as the compression also helps resistance.
Granted my motor was out of the truck and on a hoist when i removed mine, I jammed a screwdriver against the ground and teeth in the starter wheel. had to use a cheater bar and penetrating lube with the 1/2" socket wrench
It's a normal bolt!! no reverse thread bull. I literally just did it myself withOUT air tools or "cranking the engine". all it took was a breaker bar and a very very long cheater pipe. and to stop the crank from spinning I put a long flat head up against the tensioner housing . it was easier than people think! posting pics, hope it helps!
Are their balancing holes around the outside edge? (There are on my engine.) I stuck a round pry bar in a hole and let the other end rest against something solid.
I bolt a 3/8" thick piece of steel to the pulley holes of the balancer, 15/16 socket and breaker bar. Easy to do, no broken parts.
Edit: The 3/8" thick steel bar is about 36 inches long. It serves about 100 purposes in my garage/driveway. I place 2 washers between the bar & the balancer to get the bar beyond the lip of the balancer. The torque spec on the balancer bolt is around 85 ft. lbs. (don't recall exactly--so look it up if your looking for a spec) and as a result it generally isn't too bad to break loose. But! There are some very stuck ones out there, so ymmv.
Socket + long breaker bar wedged up against something solid, like the frame. Bump the starter. It'll come right off
I've removed them with about 4' of leverage with another 4' long tool I made to hold everything in place. It was quite easy actually, with that much leverage.
It's a normal bolt!! no reverse thread bull. I literally just did it myself withOUT air tools or "cranking the engine". all it took was a breaker bar and a very very long cheater pipe. and to stop the crank from spinning I put a long flat head up against the tensioner housing . it was easier than people think! posting pics, hope it helps!
Did pretty much the same thing when I had to pull mine. Worked like a charm.
Are their balancing holes around the outside edge? (There are on my engine.) I stuck a round pry bar in a hole and let the other end rest against something solid.
yes there are. you could do that too. I just didn't feel comfortable cranking my engine and letting the breaker bar slap something . but I know it can and has been done
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