Help removing harmonic balancer bolt
I've got a 1995 5.0 V8 I'm trying to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. Is there a way to lock the engine to remove the main bolt? Thanks!
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I had to use an electric impact gun/wrench to remove the bolt. Even with the transmission in gear and the parking brake set, I still couldn't get the bolt off. Maybe a cheater bar will help, but you still may move the truck and still not get the bolt to budge.
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I put a pipe on the end of my socket & wrench. I also used the harmonic balance puller to hold the socket wrench on the bolt. The pipe laid on the side wall over the passenger wheel and I cranked the engine for a split second. The bolt was loosey goosey when I went back to check on it.
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I leave all the belts connected and just remove the fan and shroud and then break with a 1/2 socket with short extension, with cheater bar. I think it is a 24mm socket.
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Originally Posted by 73FOMO
(Post 10373207)
I leave all the belts connected and just remove the fan and shroud and then break with a 1/2 socket with short extension, with cheater bar. I think it is a 24mm socket.
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Originally Posted by 36545f150
(Post 10373401)
I think mine was a 7/8" socket. I had already taken out all the other pumps and pullies. I wasn't gonna put this back on. But that helps to crack that large nut off? (to leave all the accessories tied down?)
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Funny...this was the first post on the 73-79 forum when I flipped over there...check it out, may work for you.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-dampener.html |
Starter wheel
Granted my motor was out of the truck and on a hoist when i removed mine, I jammed a screwdriver against the ground and teeth in the starter wheel. had to use a cheater bar and penetrating lube with the 1/2" socket wrench
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How do you like the flywheel easily?
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95 f150 5.0 v8
It's a normal bolt!! no reverse thread bull. I literally just did it myself withOUT air tools or "cranking the engine". all it took was a breaker bar and a very very long cheater pipe. and to stop the crank from spinning I put a long flat head up against the tensioner housing . it was easier than people think! posting pics, hope it helps!https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...493a64d542.jpg
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Are their balancing holes around the outside edge? (There are on my engine.) I stuck a round pry bar in a hole and let the other end rest against something solid.
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I bolt a 3/8" thick piece of steel to the pulley holes of the balancer, 15/16 socket and breaker bar. Easy to do, no broken parts.
Edit: The 3/8" thick steel bar is about 36 inches long. It serves about 100 purposes in my garage/driveway. I place 2 washers between the bar & the balancer to get the bar beyond the lip of the balancer. The torque spec on the balancer bolt is around 85 ft. lbs. (don't recall exactly--so look it up if your looking for a spec) and as a result it generally isn't too bad to break loose. But! There are some very stuck ones out there, so ymmv. |
Socket + long breaker bar wedged up against something solid, like the frame. Bump the starter. It'll come right off :D
I've removed them with about 4' of leverage with another 4' long tool I made to hold everything in place. It was quite easy actually, with that much leverage. |
Originally Posted by Gavins95f150
(Post 16697379)
It's a normal bolt!! no reverse thread bull. I literally just did it myself withOUT air tools or "cranking the engine". all it took was a breaker bar and a very very long cheater pipe. and to stop the crank from spinning I put a long flat head up against the tensioner housing . it was easier than people think! posting pics, hope it helps!https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...493a64d542.jpg
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Originally Posted by LeoJr
(Post 16697495)
Are their balancing holes around the outside edge? (There are on my engine.) I stuck a round pry bar in a hole and let the other end rest against something solid.
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